Looks good! Thanks for the boom box.
chad
chad
Converting 720 into a 25" Major Havoc
- Thread starter m_mcgovern
- Start date
OP
OP
m_mcgovern
Active member
Good idea on the cloth. I am soooo bad about coin doors. I should just bite the bullet and get them all powdercoated.I love it!!! However, with such a beautiful cab...don't you think you should at least paint the coin door?For the speaker cloth, don't tape it onto the back of the metal cover, pull it taught over the wooden speaker enclosure and staple it. That's going to be the only way you'll get that tight enough.
I've had one powder coated and it really wasn't worth the time and effort to me. If your games are just played occasionally at home, spray painting them is much faster and cheaper.
opt2not
Well-known member
This turned out really great! Nice job on the marquee too! Thanks for the shout-out, and thanks for finally posting the end result. I was wondering about a little while ago, but it was definitely worth the wait.
Congrats!
Congrats!
i think the game looks awesome on that 25 inch vs 19 inch. [great conversion]
[some other games like rampage would benefit from a bigger screen]
[some other games like rampage would benefit from a bigger screen]
WindDrake
Well-known member
Holy crap. Jaw dropped on that. Very nice work!
bheineck
Well-known member
Looks awesome! I'm a have to make a trip over there and see that puppy in person.
OP
OP
m_mcgovern
Active member
opt2not, a big shout out to you! Thanks so much for your contribution to this game. It really would not be the same without it...just look at my original hack job for the marquee!
Thanks, guys. Yeah, I never would have thought of it, but when I saw the original partial conversion for sale, I jumped at the purchase, thinking what a great idea it was and what it could look like with the finishing touches.
Thanks, guys.
I am sure we can make that happen sometime.
Freaking awesome!
Dude, this is really amazing! Did you really buy that from me in 2010?! Much better than I was originally planning to do. Of course I especially like all the custom art. Absolutely stunning.. That Marquee when lit up is completely sick! (or maybe I should say totally rad!)
I have some questions..
Did you ever manage to get the convergence lined up better on the monitor? I remember wanting to play with the magnetic shunts to tweak it, but I had no clue how to do it and there was no real documentation explaining it that I could find. Or were you able to track down a different yoke? I remember having to bend the original one pretty bad to make it fit the angle of the tube.
What about the control panel latches? Did you ever weld the latch hooks on it so it could stay in place?
Which roller are you using? It doesn't look like the greenish opaque reproduction. Is that the repro roller casing with the original roller lit up? I remember the original roller plastic was falling apart and although the superglue seemed to hold it together it wasn't clear if it could hold up to real gameplay. I also remember the original roller sitting too long on the metal rollers and it developed some ruts. If you are using it, were you able to do anything about them?
I see you have some screws missing in the marquee. If you don't have them all I might have a few original Atari screws laying around here I can send you.
Anyway, this turned out very impressive. Great job!
Dude, this is really amazing! Did you really buy that from me in 2010?! Much better than I was originally planning to do. Of course I especially like all the custom art. Absolutely stunning.. That Marquee when lit up is completely sick! (or maybe I should say totally rad!
)I have some questions..
Did you ever manage to get the convergence lined up better on the monitor? I remember wanting to play with the magnetic shunts to tweak it, but I had no clue how to do it and there was no real documentation explaining it that I could find. Or were you able to track down a different yoke? I remember having to bend the original one pretty bad to make it fit the angle of the tube.
What about the control panel latches? Did you ever weld the latch hooks on it so it could stay in place?
Which roller are you using? It doesn't look like the greenish opaque reproduction. Is that the repro roller casing with the original roller lit up? I remember the original roller plastic was falling apart and although the superglue seemed to hold it together it wasn't clear if it could hold up to real gameplay. I also remember the original roller sitting too long on the metal rollers and it developed some ruts. If you are using it, were you able to do anything about them?
I see you have some screws missing in the marquee. If you don't have them all I might have a few original Atari screws laying around here I can send you.
Anyway, this turned out very impressive. Great job!
OP
OP
m_mcgovern
Active member
Dude, this is really amazing! Did you really buy that from me in 2010?! Much better than I was originally planning to do. Of course I especially like all the custom art. Absolutely stunning.. That Marquee when lit up is completely sick! (or maybe I should say totally rad!
Yup. I bought it from you back in 2010...right away, I knew what I wanted to do with it. I thought I would be done in a year.
No, the convergence is still not correct. The problem is that this tube will not work 100% with the 6100 yoke. The yoke either needs to be re-wound or I will need to track down the correct tube. It is on the list of things to change eventually.
Nope, right now it just sits in there. I haven't had a problem with it popping up during play.
I am using another reproduction roller that I got from RAM Controls before it was clear that the owner was ripping people off. I was one of the lucky ones that got what I payed for.
If you have some, I won't turn them down.
I am missing 3 in total. And, if you look closely, I actually put in some additional pin holes into my overlay as I was not careful which locations were for the metal panel to be screwed onto the wood frame underneath vs the wood frame to the cabinet. I was pretty upset when I realized what I did.Thanks again for selling it to me. I am really happy this machine is in my modest collection. If you ever want to play it in person, just let me know.
Good one.
When this is done...I'll need you to update your 720 Hellcade page...or maybe make a 720 Heavencade page?
I'm still very conflicted on this entire subject. On one hand I love Major Havok, and I really appreciate the hard work and creativity that went into the project, but on the other hand.....well you know...
Oh and yes I'll definitely be putting something about this on my site. Great work!
That poor 720... Looks like a lot of hard work going into this project, though. Good luck!
(Owned a 720 in the late/late 90's but had to let it go... My personal favorite game!)
(Owned a 720 in the late/late 90's but had to let it go... My personal favorite game!)
You're not conflicted Jeff. Tell him how you really feel. Haha!
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Aha, the penny drops
Looks fantastic Scott!
Convergence . . . . One day, as the pool of knowledge grows . . .
Looks fantastic Scott!
Convergence . . . . One day, as the pool of knowledge grows
. . .
ArcRevival
Well-known member
I'm thinking about the Star Wars cockpit missing a monitor.
OP
OP
m_mcgovern
Active member
The monitor is a 25" raster with a WG6100 yoke on it...that is why the convergence is not quite right. I have to rewind it. No 25" Amp was harmed during the project....unfortunately, from JeffC's POV, a 720 was harmed. But in my defense, it was a Major Havoc when I got it. I finished off the outsides.
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The 6100 yoke is the right one to use as is - it should not need to be rewound assuming the 25" tube is a 100 degree tube. If not, then rewind the original yoke as there are many who could use the 6100 yoke as is.
Also, you may want to switch from 6100 HV and deflection boards to a set of Amplifone boards since it will up your drawing speed (reduce flicker). See https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Jrv4PDzguOg
Also, you may want to switch from 6100 HV and deflection boards to a set of Amplifone boards since it will up your drawing speed (reduce flicker). See https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Jrv4PDzguOg
OP
OP
m_mcgovern
Active member
After talking to someone that spent their professional career working on the CRT business, I am pretty sure there is more to it than 6100 yoke and 100 degree tube. The electron optics in the neck play a role. That is why I believe I could not get converged with the A63ADG25X tube and 6100 yoke. I would love for someone to prove me wrong! To be clear I was not planning to rewind the 6100 yoke but rather the original raster yoke.
Absolutely that is in the plans. I have a set of Amp boards awaiting rebuild and then I will do exactly that!
