Convert to Donkey Kong?

JoeB1355

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I just picked up a dead vs system in a blue cabinet. I burned new roms and now its plays SMB again -- I want to convert this back to Donkey Kong. I assume that's what it was originally.

What do I need?

s/n plate on the back

Nintendo of America
Made in USA
MGS - UP - US
28794 PAK

Under that plate I found another plate presumably the original one?

Nintendo Co Ltd
Made in Japan
TKG4 - UP - US
31219

I assume this proves it was once a Donkey Kong? It strangely has a Donkey Kong jr bezel, but is a blue cab with vs SMB in it....

so original monitor is there horizontal now though.... Guess I need some bars to switch back the L brackets are still mounted there though

I have no clue if any of the wiring is original or re-usable for DK. Same goes for the power supply and transformer are they original or vs retrofits?

should I fill 5 of the bolts holes on side and leave 2 or should I leave them all for this vintage of Donkey Kong?

What was the correct DK board set for this cabinet?

Attached is a pic if anyone can tell me?
 
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That tag is for a DK.
You need a different harness for DK iirc.
You can use a DK3,Original harness or get a repro edge connector harness from Dokert.
Fill just the 3 holes that are used for the horizontal brackets.
You don't want someone or something to poke through your side art.
Assuming you are going to repaint the cab.
If not then just leave the bolts in.
The power brick is from a DK,so it can stay.
TKG4 used the 2 board set.
 
That tag is for a DK.
You need a different harness for DK iirc.
You can use a DK3,Original harness or get a repro edge connector harness from Dokert.
Fill just the 3 holes that are used for the horizontal brackets.
You don't want someone or something to poke through your side art.
Assuming you are going to repaint the cab.
If not then just leave the bolts in.
The power brick is from a DK,so it can stay.
TKG4 used the 2 board set.

Thanks -- I'm for sure gonna paint inside is not to bad but the outisde has a lot dings chips etc some water must gotten in the front or its just loose as well so I'll pull it apart sand a bit glue and staple it back together. bottom square fell apart moving it. wood looks good but glue I think must have deteriorated to nothing.

Been tearing this apart all night -- What the heck are with with those coin door bolts perfect aligned behind the coin box shelf so pretty much not tool fits there!!

I for sure need an upper bracket to put the monitor back in vertically and I am missing the test switch on the door (maybe not missing gotta look some drilled a hole in the door and put a push button there for credits -- maybe the button was once the test switch?

Anyone heave the test switch and brack as well as the monitor bracket? I'll post on the wanted as well.

So I don't have the board yet so I'm confused a bit by the harness are there multiple types and multiple ways to attach it?
 
Thanks -- I'm for sure gonna paint inside is not to bad but the outisde has a lot dings chips etc some water must gotten in the front or its just loose as well so I'll pull it apart sand a bit glue and staple it back together. bottom square fell apart moving it. wood looks good but glue I think must have deteriorated to nothing.

Been tearing this apart all night -- What the heck are with with those coin door bolts perfect aligned behind the coin box shelf so pretty much not tool fits there!!

I for sure need an upper bracket to put the monitor back in vertically and I am missing the test switch on the door (maybe not missing gotta look some drilled a hole in the door and put a push button there for credits -- maybe the button was once the test switch?

Anyone heave the test switch and brack as well as the monitor bracket? I'll post on the wanted as well.

So I don't have the board yet so I'm confused a bit by the harness are there multiple types and multiple ways to attach it?

It is not that hard,really.
Check out the manual on Mikesarcade.There is some good info on the interior parts of the cab.
The 2 board set can use either the individual little black connectors or an edge connector harness.
Post in the WTB section for a harness or PM Dokert to see if he has any repro edge connector harnesses left.
Worst case you could throw a jamma harness with adapter and switching power supply in there till you find a harness.
I removed the coin box shelf to remove the coin door bolts.
The nice thing about DK cabs is they can be taken completely apart.
 
Bezel

so I finish removing most everything -- but something doesn't seem right

I had a dk jr bezel drilled with 4 carriage bolts holding it in and here is a wooden frame in the cabinet. Its looks factory to me?

are others this way? There are also 2 additional both on each side that hold the frame in place.

Front pic attached
 
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So the more I think about this it must have been added

anyone got some nice detailed pics of how bezel and bezel brackets fit and work

Something must be broken, piece of wood missing or something to have made some go to the trouble to build a frame, mount and drill the bezel.

I do have a flat metal rod by the back door lock that goes to the front -- it basically is doing nothing in the way mine was modified
 
Yeah, that frame isn't normal.

I've just been going through the same de-conversion. Like yours, mine had the original data-plate hiding behind the new plate.

I bought a 2-board set off another klov-er, a CP from Mike's Arcade, and a bezel off ebay. I got a harness from Dokert.

Here's what the frame in my Jr cabinet looks like (same as DK):
img20110420205343.jpg


img20110420205521.jpg


img20110420205604.jpg



-Jim
 
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If it wasn't clear from the picture, the side pieces are 3/8ths ply. The top is 5/8ths (I think). The bottom of the bezel is held in place by the groove.
 
Thanks! Couple more questions

How wide are the plywood strips that are stapled to inside?

How long are they as well do they extend behind the bottom piece with the groove?

I removed the frame tonight and saw staple holes -- I just can't figure out why the elaborate frame -- guess its doesn't matter its removed now.

So the metal strip that goes across the top in the middle from back to front and slides -- what is its purpose?

The bottom bracket sits in the groove what holds the top? Does it go behind the metal and before those wooden blocks? I also don't have the blocks... Can you send dimentions of those as well? I can probably guess from the pic if not. The missing blocks may be the whole reason for the elaborate frame.

I don't have a CP yet -- Does the CPsit on top of the bottom bezel bracket to keep it secure?


Mine whast bolts on the outside
 
How wide are the plywood strips that are stapled to inside?
They only need to be an inch or two wide,just to keep the bezel in place.
You can staple or screw new ones in place.

How long are they as well do they extend behind the bottom piece with the groove?
They just go to from the top to the lower wood piece. It is not critical that they are exactly like original as long as they are close enough to the front of the cab so the bezel is fairly tight and not too loose.


So the metal strip that goes across the top in the middle from back to front and slides -- what is its purpose?
That slides forward to keep the bezel tight against the lower marquee bracket.

The bottom bracket sits in the groove what holds the top? Does it go behind the metal and before those wooden blocks?
Yes
The top of the bezel slips in between the lower marquee bracket and the strips on the underside of the top panel. The bezel is slipped in between the marquee bracket and strips then lowered into the groove on the lower piece and then the retainer is slid forward and locked in place.

Does the CPsit on top of the bottom bezel bracket to keep it secure?
The cp slips under the lower bezel bracket and then secured with cp latches.
 
I just can't figure out why the elaborate frame -- guess its doesn't matter its removed now.

It was probably done for security. You could pretty easily lift up the bezel and get inside the game with the regular factory set up. Getting to the coin-box is a different story.
 
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