Continueing asteroids deluxe power issues

starfighter2

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ok so two part plan was to get a know working power brick and parts to fix the old and incase there was an issue. I got the power block today and a guy had indicated that it was tested and working with pictures of the game working from this forum. I beleive the game and brick are in working condition. I ran some test with just the power brick first and got the flowing results using a foum link below that someone suggested as the volts I would get from the power brick. I would like to see if any of you have any ideas on how I should preceed since even just the power block seems to not have the power outout that is suggested by the arcade form link in the below email. and this is the first item in the chain.

Also I tested the input wire from the wall and got 170 vac (white and black) and the same vac with green and black (common)

***V***V***
*1***2***3*
*4***5***6*
*7***8***9*
*10**11**12*
*13**14**15*
***********

Meter set to 20vdc
Red lead to pins 1, 2, 3
Black lead to pins 4, 5
Reading should be 10.3 vdc (could read high 13vdc as it is unregulated)

I Got: 20.6 my original block got 20volts
others Got 13.36

Meter set to 200vac
Red lead to pin 6
Black lead to pin 7
Reading should be 36 vac

I Got: 46.9vac my original got 0 volts
Others have Got 32.4 vac


Meter set to 20vac
Red lead to pin 8
Black lead to pin 9
Reading should be 6.3vac

I got: 6.7 vac original got 0 volts
others have Got 5.8 vac

Meter set to 200vac
Red lead to pin 10
Black lead to Pin 12
Reading should be 60.1vac

I got: 78.5 original got 0 volts
others Got 55.7 vac


Meter set to 200vac
Red lead to pin 13
Black lead to pin 15
Reading should be 80 vac

I got: 78 vac original got 0 volts
others Got 55.6 vac


I also verified that with continuity test that all fuses in both blocks where working and in good condition.

I also tryed three differen regulator boards without a load and would get 6 volts on each board no change. Plugged into load with my old game board the board got 5.78 volts to 6 volts

not sure what I should do next? Thanks

original thread I found in this forum:
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=121666&highlight=atari+power+test
 
Agreed. Theer are variances between power bricks for the UR cocktail and Mini. I know I have an Ireland mini and it is indeed different from the other versions.
 
"Also I tested the input wire from the wall and got 170 vac (white and black) and the same vac with green and black (common)"

170Vac That seems a bit high. Should be around 115-125
 
ok So I just had the classic newbee situation happen. I noticed this morning that my low battery indicator light was on in my meter. After changing the battery all the voltages on the power brick are in the ranges indecated beow in the test provided.

Also on the voltage regulator with load, the voltage is 6 volts and the 10.5 is at 12.5. Not sure if that is in the correct range under load. On the game board I get 5 volts (I set itwiththe regulatro to about 5.12 volts).

Unfortuntely there is no sounds from the game even with self test and only the player 1 and 2 light come on. Nothing happens on coin up. I have tryed to clean the contacts of the board to the wire harness with an erasor with no luck. The montor do not come on (I will create a new thread under the monitor help section for that). I do have another game board that I purchased as working but want to make sure all the voltages are correct before I put that board in the game. Any help with ensureing I have the correct voltage would be appreciated and any toughts on how to proceed from here would be appreciated
 
5.12 sounds good, that 12 on the 10.5 is fine.

I wouldn't create any additional threads regarding the monitor until you have the game officially playing blind. The monitors in these work different from your standard game, they don't officially turn on until you have signal.

Even so on the monitors, all you really need to do is yank the deflection board, resolder every pin of every molex plug, check all 800 fuses, and check the 2 giant resistors. If either resistor has a weird reading or is open, just remove them both and replace each with a heavy piece of wire.
 
so know the game is playing blind. I can hear all the sounds (fire, sheilds, thrust, and explosions). the spot killer light is now off, but no video.

I was going to replace the caps and xsitors with a bob roberts kit. Is there anything else I should be looking for?
 
so know the game is playing blind. I can hear all the sounds (fire, sheilds, thrust, and explosions). the spot killer light is now off, but no video.

I was going to replace the caps and xsitors with a bob roberts kit. Is there anything else I should be looking for?

STOP!

Take a breath.

Test R100 & R101 to see if they are open. (Big white resistors on the top of the deflection board for the monitor)
 
the model is a 802. I looked for resitor R100 and R101 but they are not on the board. Nice. Looks like they have been removed. not sure that restors to buy. in the manual they have 4RO 10W 10%? and all three fuses on the board passed the coninuity test
 
the model is a 802. I looked for resitor R100 and R101 but they are not on the board. Nice. Looks like they have been removed. not sure that restors to buy. in the manual they have 4RO 10W 10%? and all three fuses on the board passed the coninuity test

The resistors may NOT be there, the field mod may have been done, or it may be the rev where they were not there. What Rev is the deflection board? Got a pic of the deflection board?

Also Test DB100 (BR bridge rectifier) to verify that it is good.
 
I cannot seem to find the rev number. Is there a location that I can find it? I have not taken the monitor out yet. Hope you can tellwith this picture. Also I do not see anthing conecting the points on the board. However, it seems that the holes have been filled in on the older side.

I am not sure where the diode is but will look in the manual and test mid week.
 

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Well you've found your problem if there's no jumper wires on the back of that board, lol.

Set your meter to continuity check or ohms, and check across the two holes where each resistor used to be, see if it's now connected. I would imagine it is, nobody in their right mind would remove the resistors and not put anything back in their place.

If you see a good deal on a used Fluke meter, buy it! I had all kinds of problems with bad readings when the battery was going dead, until I got a fluke. They seem to give good readings right up until the battery quits.
 
Thanks, I tryed a continuity test between the to ends of where the resitors wher eto be and diod not get a positive test (i.e. no beep). Before I connect the two ends, can someone explain the filed mod would remove these two resitors and if there are other componets that are part of that mod for this monitor so that I can verify my inspecting the other parts to see if that is what really happened? I am worried that I can damage the monitor if I simply connect with a wire the resitor end points together for each resitor. Second what gage wire should I use?
 
I do see jumpers near where the resistors should be, but not sure if those are the factory jumpers or not. Basically later in life the factory simply removed those two resistors, and put a jumper wire across where they should connect. If it appears something WAS soldered where those resistors should be, a jumper wire should be installed in place of each resistor.

It sort of appears yours may already be factory modded though, the board isn't burnt like it normally would when the resistors are there.
 
Got a liitle more information. the issue of the deflection board is #5. and is does look like the R100 and R101 resistors have been jumped. I tested the DB100 bridge rectofier in cuircut and it looks like I get voltage no mater where I put the leads from the multi meter. they range from .4XX to .5XX volts. That does not seem right. please let me know.

Also, I read in the manual that there is a diode in the wire of coming from the high voltage unit to the suction cup of the monitor(picture attached). I decupuled from the connection point and tryed to get a coninity test from one end of the wire to the suction cup and could not. Is that normal? dosn't seem to me that that would be.

Also always looking for Ideas no what to do next?
 
mon

the diode in the hv , large and long, in the wire that goes to the hv does either go bad alot, or the connection goes bad, make sure the connections are not burnt up or corroded, remove the diode, test with diode test on multi meter, (although just taking it out you may destroy the fragile and old plastic connections, if that happens i solder the diode in and then cover up the joints with silicone to insulate)
if it tests bad arcadeshop.com has replacements for about 11.00 ea
after this , id say go ahead and do the rest of the monitor kap kit also, then after your all done and checked your work plug it in and prey!
 
if the following is what you are talking about, then there was no diode in the wire when I took it apart. so maybe this is what is casing the issue. Please confirm and I will order the part.

Other question is see a spring on on end of the wire and a small cuiled wire on the other end. How would I install the diode?
 
I am a monkey. I can see the diode and is test bad. Once I pull the diode, the continuity test worked. so I will order the diode from arcadeshop and see if that helps.
Thanks
 
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