Completely new guy; Need help connecting monitor to Isolation Transformer

McCHitman

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Completely new guy; Need help connecting monitor to Isolation Transformer

I'm working on getting a Neo Geo cabinet working. It was completely gutted.

I have a power board built, going by the hardmvs site, and I found a K7000 monitor, but the molex connector coming from the monitor for power, doesn't match the molex connectors that Bob Roberts gave me with my Neo Geo Accessory Kit (molex doesn't lock).

The pins in the molex coming from the monitor look to be larger than the pins that I have, to assemble a male and female molex, and I want to know the best route to take to get this hooked to the isolation transformer. I am unsure if I can pop out the existing pins and put them in a new connector, or if I should cut off the molex and put new pins on, but will they fit?

I have supplied a picture of the monitor wires, and the molex that I have.

All help is appreciated.
 

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A few things you can do. Buy a new connector from bob, both male and female and new pins. Or with a pin extractor just pop the pins out and match the connectors.
 
The pre-existing connector is a Molex with a .093 diameter. Bob sent you Amp connectors with .084 pins/housings. The easiest thing for you to do is to remove the .093 housing/pins and then crimp on the .084 pins, followed by using the .084 housing. Polarity doesn't matter in this case, in other words you don't need to worry about mixing up the black and white wires. However if you want to follow the standard follow both wires back into your cab until you find a fuse on one wire. Wire this one to the black wire from the chassis. If the wires terminate at the iso then it doesn't matter.


For future reference, the .093 was standard for a very long time but at some point in the late 80's early 90's many companies seem to have shifted to the .084. My guess is either the Molex connectors got more expensive or more difficult to find. Either one can carry the current necessary for this monitor.
 
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Your observations are correct. The monitor pins and connectors you have are made by Amp. They are from the Mate-n-Lok© series, and they use .084 sized pins.

Lots more info here:

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=181386

And here:

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=156003

A pic of the Mate-N-Lok stuff:

attachment.php



Don't use the Amp Mate-N-Lok stuff - it's not as widely used as the 2-pin molex with the .093 pins, like the one on your K7xxx monitor.

In my opinion, I would make sure your equipment is all converted to the 2 pin molex with the .093 pins. The ones with the round and D shaped connectors, like in your first picture.

Here's the mating connector you need for your monitor @ DigiKey:

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/D...lang=en&site=us&keywords=19-09-1029&x=17&y=20

And the pins:

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=WM1103-ND
 
Edit: Man, Ken's gotten pretty fast these days - his reply beat mine!

You can get your stuff from MCM electronics too (like Ken's links) or from Bob Roberts, if you specify what you need. It really just boils down to where you want to get your stuff from.

Alternatively, you can build yourself an adapter, then you'll be able to use whatever connectors you want.

That's what I did (shameless YouTube plug coming up):

 
Even after crimping a bazillion of these, I still have to look twice and "fit check" to see if I am working with the 84's or the 93's, don't feel bad.
 
Wow you guys are fast and amazing. Thank you for the help I really appreciate it.

The black and white wires coming from the monitor say 18 AWG on them, but it looks so much thicker than the 18 gauge wire that I have from Bob. Does this matter, when I go to run the wires from the Isolation Transformer to that connector, or is that just more insulation on the monitor wires?
 
The gauge is referring to the conductor only, sometimes insulation thickness varies. I have found that Bob's wire seems to have pretty thin insulation though I have never had a problem with using it. As long as the crimp connectors fit you should be fine.
 
It's worth mentioning that using pliers or a cheap tool will produce very poor results. It is impossible to do a good crimp without a good crimp tool.
 
It's worth mentioning that using pliers or a cheap tool will produce very poor results. It is impossible to do a good crimp without a good crimp tool.

I picked up a Open barrel crimper from Platinum Tools a few weeks back. Someone on the forums linked me to a thread that recommended it. Works like a charm.
 
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