K7000 is pretty easy really. My worst one yet was a Nanao MS8. Weird positioning of some caps and alot of em.
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I know now why they used the number 7000... It's the number of caps you have to swap out with a cap kit on this chassis!! Cripes.
And what is up with the funky ass shielding on the black wire going from the flyback to the neckboard? Is it wax? Plastic? Transparent Aluminum?? I had to melt it off after attempts w wire cutters and a utility knife failed. It was like working on a recovered part from Roswell..
No idea what you're talking about...
There is a black wire running from the flyback to the neckboard, specifically to the end of the part of the neckboard that hooks to the tube. You have to cut that wire when replacing the flyback, as one wire from the flyback is the red voltage wire running to the neckboard, the other is a black wire that runs to the base of that neckboard connector. When I cut that wire to splice in the new flyback, there is the black outer casing, then some clear-plastic-wax whatever that protects the metal wire core. That is the shielding I couldn't get through without FIRE!![]()
I want to see a pic. The flyback should only have three wires coming off of it - anode wire, focus pin wire, and G2 wire that connects to a pin on the neckboard.
Ah, you have that socket. Well, you can solder the two ends together with heatshrink around it. It will work...
Ah, you have that socket. Well, you can solder the two ends together with heatshrink around it. It will work...
It doesn't pop apart?
Not if it's soldered.
Don't worry about the voltage through it affecting the heatshrink. I've used heatshrink on a broken anode wire (23000 volts) with no problems...
I need some clarification in all newb terms if possible. My horizontal size is to big by 3-4 inches on both sides. From what I've read the horizontal size doesn't fix this but instead I need to switch out a certain capacitor. Is that correct and if so can you point out a specific one for me. I've got help from an electrician so If the only way to explain is in technical terms I can have someone translate for me. Thank you for any help much appreciated.
Ran into this again today, and although I mentioned it somewhere here, I'm too busy to go find it now.
Chassis Model - K7000
Symptom - Dead. No neck glow or HV. In HV shutdown.
Troubleshooting - New cap kit and flyback had been installed. No bad parts or cold solder joints or broken traces found. On a previous repair with a similar issue, I had found a reference online as to C36 (the critical safety cap) being out of value, causing the chassis to be in HV shutdown. The proper value is supposed to be 6100 picofarads, which is usually indicated on the cap by .0061 or 612. Checking C36 on this chassis showed the number to be 432 - or 4300 picofarads (same as with the previous repair). This was a factory installed part (and the chassis powered up with the old flyback), so this was not a user-install error.
Solution - Replaced C36 with the proper 6100pF cap, and the monitor now works.
I'm not sure why the 4300pF cap works with the old flyback, but not with the new flyback. Perhaps the new reproductions have a slighlty different tolerance window that requires a much more specific value on C36 than the original flybacks used. But this is worth checking if you have done everything else and still have a dead chassis....