Imacomputa
New member
Welp, I took the chassis out. It looks like it has newer caps so I didn't end up using the kit I bought. I replaced the h-hold pot and resoldered the video input pins. Thought I saw what might have been a broken trace on pin 9, so I touched that up.@security0001 I guess doesn't sell a pot kit for the deflection board, only remote board, but I'm sure he can unearth a H. Hold replacement. but you probably don't need it, I would think if it were bad you would just have a scrambled mess on the screen. LOL it is strange you went to both extremes and couldn't get the sync to break. if you have a vertical rolling picture, that's V. Hold. if you haven't tried that yet.
Plugged it all back in and it's the same, maybe slightly worse.
Is it possible this isn't even a monitor issue but a board issue?
Why would the mistercade not have this issue?
[Edit: I plugged in my EZ 2-Way JAMMA switcher with point blank 2 plugged in to the main board, MiSTercade on the extension board and when I use the MiSTer with this configuration, it too has the wavy edges and distortion. It's actually way less stable than the PB2.]
Not sure what to try next! This thing used to work just fine before I (tried to) bring it into my basement. (that's a whole 'nother story, but it's back in the garage
[Edit2: I found this thread that seems to be the exact same thing I have (even the same game): https://www.aussiearcade.com/topic/83587-crt-monitor-display-with-wiggly-lines/ different monitor and the thread ends without resolution.
After seeing this I started focusing on video ground. I tried jumping pins 2+14 on my PB2 board but it seemed worse. I disconnected video ground from my JAMMA harness and while it looks worse, it doesn't look too much different, just wavier. I was going to run a new wire from my JAMMA connector to my chassis but I don't have the right crimp connector for the video harness. Tried just wrapping around the pin on the chassis but still wavy. I do notice when I touch that end of the wire to different pieces of metal on the cab I do see the waves change. It's the only thing I've been able to do to reliably affect the waviness. ]
[Edit3: decided to recap it. My arcadepartsandrepair kit says c20 is 10uf @ 50v. The c20 I'm pulling is 100uf @ 10v and it looks like some damage next to it on the board. I added a picture]
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