Yikes... I hate those situations. How many times have you power cycled it and does it survive them?
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Yikes... I hate those situations. How many times have you power cycled it and does it survive them?
+1 for "beat the shit out of it" test5 or 6 so far. And yeah, its survived every one of them. It even survived me beating the hell out of the cabinet.
Can you be more specific? I had a similar issue and the culprit was a shorted C38 (poly cap). I would check c36, 38, & 69 (assuming your chassis is a later k7000 without the 4 legged capacitor, otherwise it doesn't have a C69)All of the above-mentioned polys and whatnot have been swapped over to working chassis.
Can you be more specific? I had a similar issue and the culprit was a shorted C38 (poly cap). I would check c36, 38, & 69 (assuming your chassis is a later k7000 without the 4 legged capacitor, otherwise it doesn't have a C69)
K7000 Turned up flyback, blew fuse
should be black lead to the heatsink wall, red lead to middle leg of HOT. high resistance good (ohm test), junction drop good (diode test) ... low resistance or diode short bad. I've never heard of your method before. did the fuse blow? can you take a picture of the underside of the chassis...forums.arcade-museum.com
are you sure its not coming from inside the neck socket or bad connection to the tube pins?? at this age i am seeing a ton of socket issues from bad sockets.I've got a K7000 skinny neck with a weird issue; its find when it has a video signal but once I turn off the TPG the neck board starts making a sizzling sound. At first I thought it was a bad flyback as it was the original white knob. Swapped in a new one and no change.
I've the focus wire is soldered in properly and I've desoldered the socket to make sure there isn't a solder blob or something causing a short. I've got another skinny neck board I'm going to swap in and see if the problem goes away.
are you sure its not coming from inside the neck socket or bad connection to the tube pins?? at this age i am seeing a ton of socket issues from bad sockets.
i have been trying to stock as many different sockets as i can find but they are vanishing because nobody wants to make them so we are limited on what we have.Yes, I think its the socket. Going to swap neck boards to confirm.

Yikes.Fun quick story: Per the gospel of @mecha
Wells-Gardner K7000 – mecha Arcade Repair
www.arcaderepair.net
And mentioned in this thread. A very common posting around here is the "I capped the monitor and now it's broke". A lot of the time, newbies (including myself) stumble through a cap kit and ignore the common problem areas.
I got a chassis a while back that had been capped with a flyback, so in my mind everything was fine (visually on top) and the picture was great. I started noticing the monitor had a lot of bloom issues (when a picture goes from dark to light, it will noticeably be slow to paint the screen). I know this is usually related to a bad Voltage regulator (IC4) or filter cap (less common). I checked the B+ and it was low, something like 110v.
So I took a look and guess what:
View attachment 637166
The VR had been replaced at some time but was never actually soldered in place! Also the regular problem resistor pads at R101, R89, R96, R103 were completely lifted. I have no idea how this chassis was actually working. I spend a long time repairing the traces and giving the whole chassis a proper re-work. It's rock solid now. No blooming and beautiful!
Thanks! I'm going to pull the chassis out tomorrow night and get to work.Probably cold joints, check the header pins, especially pin 10 which is sync.
@security0001 I guess doesn't sell a pot kit for the deflection board, only remote board, but I'm sure he can unearth a H. Hold replacement. but you probably don't need it, I would think if it were bad you would just have a scrambled mess on the screen. LOL it is strange you went to both extremes and couldn't get the sync to break. if you have a vertical rolling picture, that's V. Hold. if you haven't tried that yet.Thanks! I'm going to pull the chassis out tomorrow night and get to work.
I was messing around with it yesterday and tried fiddling with the h-hold knob. I realized turning it changes nothing. I turned it all the way left and all the way right and it didn't change anything with the picture. Does this mean the pot is bad?
Anyone know where I could find replacement pots if that is the case?
Also -- side note. The scrolling behavior is specifically when using a mistercade. When I try these other boards I have (Tekken 2, soul edge, point blank 2) I don't get the scrolling, but instead some curling and like.. distortion? And it doesn't go away after warming up.
See here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/LH9xf7jmoanHnjEZ6
Just wondering why the mistercade doesn't have those issues and is eventually fine but scrolls until "warm".
Thanks for any help! Kind of intimidated discharging the monitor and everything but I'm pretty decent at soldering.
if your talking about VR2 then yes its here.@security0001 I guess doesn't sell a pot kit for the deflection board, only remote board, but I'm sure he can unearth a H. Hold replacement. but you probably don't need it, I would think if it were bad you would just have a scrambled mess on the screen. LOL it is strange you went to both extremes and couldn't get the sync to break. if you have a vertical rolling picture, that's V. Hold. if you haven't tried that yet.
www.arcadepartsandrepair.com