Cold Solder Joint, Lifted Silver Ring

jdhogg

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Ok guys, I don't know the exact terms, but I'll try my best....

I'm right in the middle of a cap kit on my Sanyo EZ and while removing one cap, the silver ring that adheres to the pcb came off the board. I probably had a little too much heat there.

I added the cap anyway but it does not look ideal. Looks like more of a "ball" shape rather than a "pyramid"; and what looks like a cold solder joint but not sure if it really is.

The cap is pretty secure, but I'm being super careful and want to make sure I do this entire project right.

What can I do to fix this?

Thanks in advance.
 
Nah, it happens. The fix is not pretty but it can be fixed. What you need to do now is make sure the now ball of solder, can connect to the trace going to it. The light green trace on the board needs to be scraped away so you can see the gold or silver under the light green, so you can solder to it. Solder a thin bare wire to to the trace and then to the solder ball on the cap lead.
 
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The good joints you did look just fine...

Ok before you go scraping away the light green trace and I stand corrected, you would scrape away the light green, I did not have a board in front of me at the time.

Do you have a digital volt ohm meter (DVOM)/multi meter? If you do, set it to continuity and touch one end of the solder blob with one lead, hold it there and then follow the path on the light green near the blob until it gets to another solder pad, touch the other lead there. The meter should beep, if it does, then you still have conectivity to the cap, or the end of the cap that was damaged. This test will tell you if indeed the pad is destroyed. If it beeps, then some of the pad may be removed but still some is there making a connection.

If the meter does not beep, you will have to scrape off some of the light green going to the solder blob. Then use a small thin piece of wire to bridge the gap from the blob to the light green trace. Its hard for me to see where the trace is from the pic, but there has to be one. Scrape lightly with something metal, metal is usually the only thing that will remove the green coating. Scraping off the coating, lets the solder stick, solder the wire to it and then right on top of the solder blob. This fix is common place and will not hurt anything.

There should be pics or videos on Google or this site that show how to do this.

Its not as bad as you think, this can be fixed!!! : )
 
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Just to be save and to make sure you're getting a good connection, I would also add a jumper. Run a wire jumper from the bad solder joint to the next solder joint that the trace is leading to. It won't look pretty but electrons don't care how it looks as long as they get there.
 
For the "jumper wire" ..... I use clippings from the legs of the capacitors that you have already cut off.

If you had not already cut that particular leg off already, you could have scraped some of the laminate off the trace and just folded the leg over onto the trace and soldered it down directly to the trace. (but it may or may not be long enough now)

I brightened up your pics a bit so others can see as well.
 

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OK guys. Thanks a lot for the posts. I do have a Craftsman multimeter with continuity and will fully absorb what is written above and see if it can be salvaged. I was pretty close to dropping the whole monitor to Chad at Arcade Cup to prevent further damage. This is a tough lesson, maybe I should have went with the 25W instead of the 40W iron....

I will try to get at it early tomorrow morning if I have time and will post the results.
 
OK guys. Thanks a lot for the posts. I do have a Craftsman multimeter with continuity and will fully absorb what is written above and see if it can be salvaged. I was pretty close to dropping the whole monitor to Chad at Arcade Cup to prevent further damage. This is a tough lesson, maybe I should have went with the 25W instead of the 40W iron....

I will try to get at it early tomorrow morning if I have time and will post the results.

Oh yes, definately go with a 25 or 30 watt iron. Same for a heated solder sucker.

Its a tough leason learned but once installed, you will not see the repair, plus its just a small wire you are adding, not a big deal.

But like Kevin states, you can use wire from some of the cap leads you cut off, they make excelletn jumpers.
 
Just did a continuity check and it's good, so I think I'm going to leave it. Seems pretty sturdy for now.

Thanks again guys!
 
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