Clearcoat or wax?

Abstract3000

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So I'm restoring my playfield and I found a professional artist to touch up the paint for me, On the playfield I have a few large patches of mylar, most of them in great condition only a couple that need to be removed as they were applied over areas that already had issues.

So I was contemplating removing all the mylar patches (gambling on more paint removal) having it touched up then clear coated, but now I'm wondering if I should just remove the bad mylar patches touch it up, clean it then apply a few layers of wax instead?

My biggest concern are the inserts as a couple are raising and the others are lowered over time, yes i can use pin repair's method of fixing the inserts but the plastic on the top is 30yrs old I can simply level it but with the stretching of the plastic the indent will still be there.

So I guess my question is this, I know with 6-7 layers of clear coat the surface will be level and fill in the indents and protect the paint for good, but I don't have a special shop to lay that stuff down, it would require removing "All mylar" and from what I have heard doing it in your garage can be disastrous and dust will stick to it badly. As for waxing I know it can be applied over the mylar thats already there but will it build a thickness to help level? This is for home use so maybe a few plays per week

any insight would be great
Thanx
(ps what I'm referring to with "indents" is if you look at a circular inserts on an early 80's williams pinball, even though the edges may be level with the playfield looking from the side you can see where the middle has sunken in a bit most likely due to heat from the lamps and age)
 
Well if you get the playfield completely restored to the point where that all thats left is clear coat you can have the playfield shipped off and get someone to clear it for you. I think I saw some ppl who charge like 150 to clear it.

What game is the playfield for? Might be worth trying to hunt down a NOS or repro
 
Has anyone ever clearcoated their pinball and what was your experience with it?
 
I clearcoated my spirit of 76 last week . I used House of color brand clear but any automotive clear will work. You should be able to get a quart of clear and hardner for less than $50.00. It dries quick and can be wet sanded and buffed the next day to get a very level surface. I used the cheap craft paint from walmart to touch up (almost total repaint) my playingfield.I also touched up the numbers on the drop targets and clearcoated them they turned out nice. there were a few small spots where the paint lifted /wrinkled when I put on the first coat but it was back smooth after the second coat.
Just be sure to wear a paint mask and dont spray in your house. If you would like to see some pictures send me your email adderess and I will send them to you.

Jim
 
I had my NOS Rocky playfield clearcoated professionally by one of the pin restoration places...Looks super...only thing you need to be ready for is much faster play...if you have a playfield you touched up or that is really rare...then clear is the way to go...if its common playfield and you are just cleaning one in good condition then a nice wax job with home use will be just fine...the clear is good for touch up so the paint will not chip or lift back up.
 
I had my NOS Rocky playfield clearcoated professionally by one of the pin restoration places...Looks super...only thing you need to be ready for is much faster play...if you have a playfield you touched up or that is really rare...then clear is the way to go...if its common playfield and you are just cleaning one in good condition then a nice wax job with home use will be just fine...the clear is good for touch up so the paint will not chip or lift back up.

Here is a question that ive never heard an answer for in all the pinball / clear coating threads. What happens if you clear coat a playfield, and then you need to replace a lens or something later? do you have to dig it out of the clear coat replace it, then have it retouched and reclear coated?
 
Here is a question that ive never heard an answer for in all the pinball / clear coating threads. What happens if you clear coat a playfield, and then you need to replace a lens or something later? do you have to dig it out of the clear coat replace it, then have it retouched and reclear coated?

If after a restore like that you have lens problems, then you probably have much bigger problems. It is not something you should worry about.
 
Here is a question that ive never heard an answer for in all the pinball / clear coating threads. What happens if you clear coat a playfield, and then you need to replace a lens or something later? do you have to dig it out of the clear coat replace it, then have it retouched and reclear coated?

You could do it but it would be a nightmare. What I would do is cut through the clear around the insert and pop it out. You might lift the clear or crack it. Then you would have to repaint the area with clear, sand and buff again.

It would suck.
 
Here is a question that ive never heard an answer for in all the pinball / clear coating threads. What happens if you clear coat a playfield, and then you need to replace a lens or something later? do you have to dig it out of the clear coat replace it, then have it retouched and reclear coated?


If you do the proper inspection and prep work prior to clear coating a playfield that isn't something you should have to worry about..if you do..you would have to carefully remove the lens..if you work carefully you could remove one with little damage but you would be looking at a lot of work and not easy to prevent cracking of clear depending on how long its already cured.
 
What i was getting at, is, if you were to have a malfunction with maybe a flasher bulb stuck on to where it melts the lens and you need to replace it. I eventually want to send off my gnr and bttf to get clear coated, seeing as how they will be in my gameroom for a long time to come.
 
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