Clear coat or poly restored stenciled cabs?

Malice95

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So you spent a ton of time restoring a cab and stenciling it.
Do you typically poly or clear coat the sides to protect them?

Any tips on spraying standard semi-gloss poly?

I'd use a 2K urethane clear coat but I only have gloss and I dont want to
drop a $100 to get semi-gloss.
 
I clear mine usually, but with Semi Gloss. Make sure whatever you use wont yellow. I did my Pac about 12 years ago and it yellowed (even more) over time... So now its really yellow :p
 
I clear mine usually, but with Semi Gloss. Make sure whatever you use wont yellow. I did my Pac about 12 years ago and it yellowed (even more) over time... So now its really yellow :p

I say no need to clear something that originally didn't have a clear coat. Straying from the original process there.. If you do clear it, use something that's not oil based, or it will yellow.

How many games actually had a clearcoat over the stenciled paint job?

Robotron? Any others?
 
Typical poly (minwax) will yellow over time. What do you typically use?

Ive used Automotive clears and that waterbased stuff from minwax in the blue can... (Polycrylic) but be carefull with that stuff, it RUNS REAL EASY. Need to do very thin coats of it.

I like the clear because it evens out the finish and gives the stenciled colors a little "protection" if you will.... :)

I've also used clear to smooth out the sheen after touching up a spot or blending colors on a repair. The clear helps hide the touch up blend into the existing/original art.
 
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All the Williams cabs used some type of clear...I can't remember but I think yellow dog who used to work at Williams verified what they used..I've got a few NIB williams games and when they are brand new you can see the nice clear/gloss finish they used to give even sheen...I think anything not oil is less likely to yellow over time..The williams finish doesn't seem to yellow but it does tend to crack over time so nothing is perfect..
 
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