Cleaning PCB's ????

SideArms

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Hey guys,
I've got some old PCB's that I want to clean up and restore. I know to use a toothbrush and other light means of massaging, and air, but can I use any type of electrical contact cleaner? Or maybe there is another type of cleaner I can use?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks For Your Time
 
You don't get a problem with water in components? I know you're not starting up while it's wet but really?

Nope - afterall they are only metal, plastic and silicon, the only problem you get is when you think they are dry and power them up. Water gets trapped under things and can remain for a very long time. The only real risk to components is rust, leave them wet for long enough and rust will move in. You will of course lose all stickers on the board, and anything thats socketted should be removed before the bath.

Some people put their boards in the diskwasher, mine doesnt have a heat setting and dishes come out too hot to touch, probably wouldnt subject my boards to that. Hot soapy water and a medium stiffness brush will do wonders, the only problem is drying it thoroughly off afterwards.

Oh I suppose you should discharge and large capacitors on the board if you are considering dunking a monitor chassis.
 
I use Simple Green and a paint brush, followed by a rinse using the sprayer in the kitchen sink. I get the water out from under components with compressed air, then I dry the board with a hair dryer. Lots of people here put their PCBs in the dishwasher, but I've never tried this.

Check out komodo's recent post in the monitor forum about hosing down a monitor: http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showpost.php?p=853860&postcount=6
 
First remove all socketed chips. Then, Simple Green with warm water, soft-bristled brush like a pushbroom, and rinse thoroughly with distilled water. Set your oven for its lowest setting, let it heat up, then turn it OFF. Put your board in and let the oven cool down. Comes out great every time!
 
Thanks Guys

Sounds like I've been missing out on making these easier to clean. I spend about 3 hrs a board currently. I'm going to be able to do it much faster now.

Thanks
 
Tooth brush, Formula 409 Orange, rinse off in sink, dry in oven at 170 degrees.

No water left after 15 minutes of drying. ;)

Of course, take off any batteries before cleaning.

Some boards should NOT be cleaned with liquids!!! If your board has a suicide battery, DO NOT CLEAN IT with any liquids. Compressed air ONLY.
 
I'm with CM

Wash them carefully and then use an oven on low. We used to do this all the time with boards at work in an industrial oven to evaporate the moisture safely before applying power.
 
Dishwasher for me. Works perfect. Compressed air afterwards.

Most boards go thru such a board washing after they are built. Our low volume board line actually used a Sears Kenmore with deionized water for boardwashing. Also used the standard dry cycle - boards came out perfectly clean every time without spots (and without JetDry!).

Just don't do this with boards that have DIP switches or relays, though.
They -WILL- get water trapped in side - especially the DIP switches. It may take several months for the water to do it's dirty work - they'll eventually build up a nice green corrosion layer .. switches that are open will stay open forever and switches that are closed may go open.... or may corrode shut permanently.

Ed
 
Depending on the size of the board, I use 409, and a sonic bath. I have all kinds of brushes ranging from paint brushes to tooth. Then it's a rinse, and dip in an IPA bath. The alcohol helps remove the water by causing it to evaporate faster. A little blow with the compressor, and 170 in the oven if I need the board quickly.
 
Garden hose with some spray on cleaner (409, Lysol, Windex, etc) and a couple of hours in summertime Texas garage. Clean & dry in no time.

ken
 
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