Cinematronics Issue.

HI25

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Hello,

I have a ripoff non working since a few years ago, I have the classic circuit breaker trip no picture no sound.
I test The PCB on my star Castle, the PCB is Good and I the sound board is dead I have a spare one.

After cap kit the pcb of the monitor (Ripoff) no change.

I decided to change transitors T03 on the radiator on the left of the monitor.
Now no circuit breaker but the fuse on the supply simply burn

I have a working another cinematronics cab and to go fast, I decide to test the radiator with the new transitor on it, first, only one one them. yes I know stupid idea..

Not the same, I have the circuit breaker trip on my Star Castle.
I am putting back the good radiator and ..
No picture.
I check the circuit breaker it is ok.
no picture and no classic sound when I switch on, I have light on the back of the monitor.
After several test I have another bad thing R119 was burn

I decided to swap with a working monitor PCB and now it is R218 on the other who Burn.
So I have still my ripoff no working and my star Castle too with a new issue, did you have any idea, I do not understand this new issue on the star Castle.

Thanks
 

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Just one other Thing, I have another power supply this one with 2 fuse the Xentek and when I replace it on the star Castle with originaly Keltron supply the fuse 2 burn.
 
I think you can run those monitors without having the deflection transistors connected. You will get a picture but it will be way too small. Replace those bad resistors (R119 and R218) and try it with the deflection transistors disconnected. If you get a pic then you might have a bad transistors or two on the heat sinks. Or they might be in the wrong position.

http://www.outerworldarcade.com/arcade/cinematronics/manuals/cine_faq_v096.pdf

Maybe some one can verify that you can in fact run that monitor with the deflection transistors unplugged? FWIW, dont run it for very long without those heat sinks plugged in.
 
I think you can run those monitors without having the deflection transistors connected. You will get a picture but it will be way too small. Replace those bad resistors (R119 and R218) and try it with the deflection transistors disconnected. If you get a pic then you might have a bad transistors or two on the heat sinks. Or they might be in the wrong position.
Maybe some one can verify that you can in fact run that monitor with the deflection transistors unplugged? FWIW, dont run it for very long without those heat sinks plugged in.


Thats a big yes and the picture will be small. Since I sold you the monitor deflection board, we know thats good so my money is on you having one or two bad TO-3 transistors. Pull them and test with meter.
 
thanks

I understand what i do on the star castle testing the heatsink with TO3 from Ripoff.

the 2N3716 goes to the plug with Red, White and Orange wires, 2N3792 connects to the harness with the blue, black and green wires I just do the reverse.
 
Hello still working on this, two monitor and no one working.
Fist one from star Castle.

all components were replaced, Transitor diode, resistor IC, I find some ko most transistor and diode.
Now the good news no circuit breaker, but nothing on the monitor, game play blind with sound.
light on the neckboard is ok, I test with another nos HV, no change.
Did you have suggestion ?, all last component I retrieve was good. still a TTL to test (74LS06) if this TTL ok I do not understand how it is possible all component were replaced.

The one from Ripoff in the star castle Cab, was working but only one a narrow line on the monitor the game play.

After inspection I change Q204 & Q205- 2N5322 & 2N2102 this one have not the same aspect, and the solder paste refurbish be me too.
Now circuit breaker. I feel like i am back. any idea too ?
Thanks.
 
As I said before 98 % of component was replaced on the monitor board, even THT.
So it was time to swap with a new CRT, I have one for spare part, and no change still no picture.

Back to the basics, I check the voltage on the monitor board and no +25 V unregulated

only 4 Tantale capacitor were not change on this board and if C10 was down no 25 V +on this board an no picture. (not mentionned in the FAQ cinematronics)

I Change C10 and after a huge work and time, I have a picture and everythings work on the Star Castle.

Now Ripoff.
 

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RULE OF THUMB: "always check power first" (and connections)

Congrats on getting it working ... it's like new now considering all the work you've put into it. :)
 
and now I am working on the Ripoff, I have some issue with two power supply, I managed to have one working but now the two are not.

I changed all transistors and all diodes on the PCB still circuit breaker after one or two seconds.

game plays bling I heard the monitor chattering, one transistor on the heatsink is very very hot after a very few time, I change the support of TO3 too because I find one broken.
I change a few capacitors, and all tantalum. still no change no picture and circuit breaker.

The question was , I had a narrow line with this monitor before repairing a soldering near a transistor (Q205) I change it too but it seemed to be ok with my tester ; and the wiring too before the soldering. so I don"t understand and it is not the first time :)

So more than 80% of components were changed still no progress and I must fix the power supply now.
https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=426839
 
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Finally I managed to fix one other board, one for the Ripoff I bought 5 years ago.

After debugging the deflector line, the main issue was on IC6 the -15 regulator. I had 45 v on it. After replacing the 7915 I had 16v instead of -15v.

C4 was bad, but after replacing it no change, C 204 was bad too I change C104, and I must change all component around D15, D16.

After that, no breaker, and finally a narrow line, I can see all the game on this line, on the bottom of the screen.

I check and re-solder all molex connector socket, change IC1, not better.
Finally I had change the two TL081 C102,C202 and it is now alive.

The picture is too big on the monitor, I can not see the score for example, adjusting the post modifing the vector but not the size of the screen. I think I would check and change at least to pot on the monitor board.

Did someone already saw this or have any suggestions ?
 

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If the image is too big and the adjustment pots have no effect, the HV is low. Is this a 'discrete' HV model w x-former and triple or Keltron/ PTK black box unit?
 
this is a keltron gold nos.
The original one is a black box, I will test it to see if it is the same.

EDIT : Picture is too big with the other HV (black box PTK)
 
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Cool, you got it back up. I've not seen a "edge gain amplifier" failure before. I thought it would only mess with the geometry, not prevent the image from being sized to the screen. Good info!
 
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