Checking voltage on DK power supply

Yeah, this is very helpful! My mulit-meter manual didn't go into any specifics about when to use certain settings and I don't even have a basic understanding of this stuff.

I just googled using a multi-meter and it says and good example of DC power is a battery, and a good examplbe of AC power is current from the wall. So, based on that, you might think you'd be measuring boards using the AC settings. I'm assuming this isn't the case though because the transformer changes the AC power from the wall to DC, and that's why Tighe is measuring DC power?

I had no clue on the sub settings, but after Ian's post that makes perfect sense. He's looking to measure 5v so he's selecting the smallest setting that covers the range he's looking for (you'd need headroom in the setting in case you're a little over.) If there was a 10v setting he'd want that but he wouldn't use a 5v setting because his reading might be 5.1v.

The other thing I could never figure out is where to take the reading off the board. I've heard of posts, caps, chips, edge connector, etc. It would seem like the cap is the easiest since there's only two places to test from, making trial and error a two step process. I guess that's just the reading on that one cap, but if you're trying to tell whether your power supply is giving off 5v instead of trying to troubleshoot the board it would seem like a cap is a good place to check.

Great post. Thanks.

Oh yeah, Ian is right on there being no edge connector on the 4-board DK set. I've got the 4 and 2 board stacks and the edge connector is only on the 2-board version.

AC stands for alternating current, and what that means is that there is no positive or negative, the current alternates polarity 60 times a second or 60hz. There are a lot of advantages to AC, there is much less resistance when transmitting power, and the 60hz can be used to control motor speed, and timing. But you can't build any logic circuits with AC.

So power supplies in electronics use what is called a bridge rectifier to convert ac current to dc. But before that the ac is used to energize a transformer which is two coils together the ratio of loops in each coil determines the output voltage. The input coil when energized makes an electro magnetic field. The other coil if then energized by the field.

The bridge rectifier then receives the stepped down ac voltage 12v AC and the converts it to 12v DC. The bridge rectifier is a very simple device that contains 4 diodes. Diodes only let current flow in one direction which is a pain to describe, but simple when represented in a graphic:

220px-Hand_made_diode_bridge.jpg


http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/2c/Diode_bridge_alt_1.svg
 
I just googled using a multi-meter and it says and good example of DC power is a battery, and a good examplbe of AC power is current from the wall. So, based on that, you might think you'd be measuring boards using the AC settings. I'm assuming this isn't the case though because the transformer changes the AC power from the wall to DC, and that's why Tighe is measuring DC power?

A transformer steps voltage up or down... or not at all. A transformer is an iron core with two (or more) independant coils of wire around it. One coil is powered from an AC source, such as a wall socket. The other coil is electrically isolated from the first.

A current travelling through a wire will produce a magnetic field. You can do this yourself by winding some thin enameled wire around a large nail and wiring it up to a transistor radio battery. This produces a magnet which can pick up paper clips. Disconnect the battery, the magnetic field collapses, and the paper clips fall.

With AC, the voltage reverses at 60 hz (60 times per second). So, imagine the magnetic field collapsing and re-establishing itself 60 times per second. There are two coils of wire in a transformer, and as the magnetic field collapses, it induces a current through the core and into the other coil of wire. The induced voltage is proportional to the number of turns of wire that are wound around the core.

So, if you have a transformer with two coils, each of which are wound with 100 turns of copper wire, you will have a 1:1 transformer (an isolation transformer). The first coil induces a current in the second coil, through the breakdown of the magnetic field in the core. By altering the number of turns, you can step the voltage up or down. If you have 100 turns of wire on one side, and 10 turns on the other, the input voltage of 120v will be stepped down to only 12v.

The output of a transformer is still AC. It's phase shifted 180 degrees from the input sine wave, but it's still AC.

All digital logic runs on DC, however. Part of a game's power supply takes the AC from the transformer, rectifies it with diodes to create DC, and then smoothes out the remaining ripple with capacitors. So, the voltage you will measure ON a game board will always be (or at least, is supposed to be) clean DC. Most games have an offboard regulator that rectifies and filters and regulates the transformer's output voltage and turns it into clean DC. Robotron, Galaga, etc. This arrangement (transformer/rectifier/filter/regulator) is known as a linear power supply.

Some early games have the rectifiers and filtering/regulation circuitry on the game board. Games like Pac-Man, Breakout, and Galaxian are like this. The game board takes AC from the transformer directly, but converts it to the DC onboard. All the logic chips run on DC, of course - but the edge connector has AC on it.

Later games use switchmode power supplies. These are small integrated boxes that take AC from the wall socket and convert it into DC through a complex arrangement of chopper transistors, fast recovery diodes, high frequency transformers, magic smoke, and capacitors. They still work much the same way, although they use a physically tiny transformer, and operate at high frequencies to avoid the core saturation of standard 60hz.

So, the wall socket is AC. The transformer is AC. The game board is DC. The game's power supply has the necessary stuff to convert the AC to the proper voltage, then rectify and filter it into DC.

For the record, Donkey Kong uses a switching power supply.

-Ian
 
Hehe.

I haven't read any of the books that Tighe linked, but I'm sure they will help. The manual for the multimeter will tell you how to use the multimeter itself, but it won't teach you how to apply it. Much like the manual that came with your car will teach you how to operate the car itself, but won't teach you how to drive.

The multimeter is actually very simple - while it looks intimidating with all those settings, it's very straightforward. You need to set the knob to what you are looking to measure - there are positions for AC and DC volts. On a manual ranging meter, like Tighe's, you also have to select what voltage range you're looking for. On the 20v setting, which is probably what you'll use the most, you can measure from 0 to 20v.

The meter simply displays the voltage difference between the two probes. The black probe traditionally goes to the DC ground, and the red one goes to the voltage you want to measure. But it can be used a lot of other ways too. If you want to measure the voltage drop of the harness, you'd set the knob to the 2v setting, put one probe on the power supply ground, and one probe on the ground trace on the game board, and you'll see the difference between them (it'll be small, should be less than a volt).

Measuring resistance works the same way.



I don't remember that being on the four board set.

While walking along an unknown connector with your meter will eventually net you a reading, remember that TTL signal levels also measure as about 5v, and unless you have the actual power rail, it won't be accurate. Also, if you hit video or something, you'll get a weird, low reading. It's better to learn to recognise the power and ground planes on the board and measure at something directly connected there. You want to *know* that you're supposed to be getting five volts at the location you're testing.

Checking pins of a chip is kind of hard - but if you remember which pins of a ROM are ground and 5v, it'll make identifying the power and ground planes a lot easier.

-Ian

Aww, did not realize it's a 4 board set.
 
Some early games have the rectifiers and filtering/regulation circuitry on the game board. Games like Pac-Man, Breakout, and Galaxian are like this. The game board takes AC from the transformer directly, but converts it to the DC onboard. All the logic chips run on DC, of course - but the edge connector has AC on it.

The NES is like that too. The rectifier is in the ALPS RF modulator, I always wondered why Nintendo chose to do that.

Ian do you know if those JAMMA adapters have an inverter in them? Seems to me you could power those games on DC, the current would always flow through one side of the rectifier.
 
The NES is like that too. The rectifier is in the ALPS RF modulator, I always wondered why Nintendo chose to do that.
It sure makes the wall wart cheaper and easier to make. And, I like that arrangement a lot better, because you can use pretty much any AC adapter that fits in the socket - the Sega Genesis DC ones work fine too.

Also, remember, regardless of whether the console takes AC or DC, it still needs a regulator. The only difference is a couple of 15 cent diodes and a capacitor. It'll be either in the console, or in the wall wart. But the voltage regulator will always be inside the console. In the case of most game consoles, it's just a 7805.

Ian do you know if those JAMMA adapters have an inverter in them? Seems to me you could power those games on DC, the current would always flow through one side of the rectifier.

Adapter as in, to run a Pac board in a Jamma cabinet? No inverter - the DC is just fed right to the edge connector, it goes through the diodes on the board. Same reason you can use a Sega power adapter on an NES.

When you plug a Jamma board into a Pac harness, you need the rectifier and regulator on the adapter - or you have to have a switching power supply added.

-Ian
 
Also, remember, regardless of whether the console takes AC or DC, it still needs a regulator. The only difference is a couple of 15 cent diodes and a capacitor. It'll be either in the console, or in the wall wart. But the voltage regulator will always be inside the console. In the case of most game consoles, it's just a 7805.

Yes I am quite familiar with the 7805 when I made my portable NES I removed the while RF modulator assembly and used a DC converter to drop the 12V to 5v. They are much more efficient, which is something that is important with a portable system.
 
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