Gentleman,
For you veterans, this post will be redundant and very basic. However, I think it will help some rookies out there because the topic of testing the B+ voltage is often spoke about as if everyone already knows how and where to do it. Even in the manuals, the lingo typically assumes you have some technical knowledge, so they simply tell you the location(s) and pins for testing. The problem is, this is often insufficient for someone nervous about testing circuits on a live high voltage monitor. Especially when you have never done anything close to this before, and are aware of the damage you can do to yourself or the monitor by making a mistake. When I was first learning to test B+ voltages, I had no idea how to do it, and this forum did not have a simple explanation for the process directed to someone that knew nothing about it. This is a detriment to those of us who are ignorant of these processes, and not the forum or its members. Nor did a Google search help, because the approach was the same. You could find chassis locations and voltage ranges, but not a step by step.
So, fellow newbies, keep this in mind when testing B+ voltages…..
You need a multimeter. Set it to VDC (I have been told set to 500v if you have it on there, but 200v will suffice). Place the black lead to a grounded source. This can be any heatsink on the chassis, or simply connect it to the chassis frame itself (preferred). Now you take the red lead, this is what you use to make contact with the location the manual specifies. Most of the monitors I personally work on are WG k7000s because most of my games happened to have those in them when I bought them (and they are extremely common). A good location to test on these chassis is "R301, which is the large ceramic resistor mounted to the side of the chassis" (member KevinMullins taught me this, thanks Kevin).
Ground the black lead, then place the tip of the red lead on one of the ends of this R301 resistor. There are two ends, one will give you a high reading of approximately 145v, but the other one, which is the important one, should read approximately 130v.
Although different monitors have different B+ testing locations, and usually multiple locations at that, the idea is the same and I hope this helps break it down a little more than you typically find with a search.
Kalamath's suggestion below is an excellent one. It is much safer because it saves you from having to put a hand near the danger zone.
The picture below was provided by Buffett on another thread. He provides a lot of suggestions regarding chassis repairs, and will even repair your K7000's if you cannot fix them yourself. Thank you Buffett.
For you veterans, this post will be redundant and very basic. However, I think it will help some rookies out there because the topic of testing the B+ voltage is often spoke about as if everyone already knows how and where to do it. Even in the manuals, the lingo typically assumes you have some technical knowledge, so they simply tell you the location(s) and pins for testing. The problem is, this is often insufficient for someone nervous about testing circuits on a live high voltage monitor. Especially when you have never done anything close to this before, and are aware of the damage you can do to yourself or the monitor by making a mistake. When I was first learning to test B+ voltages, I had no idea how to do it, and this forum did not have a simple explanation for the process directed to someone that knew nothing about it. This is a detriment to those of us who are ignorant of these processes, and not the forum or its members. Nor did a Google search help, because the approach was the same. You could find chassis locations and voltage ranges, but not a step by step.
So, fellow newbies, keep this in mind when testing B+ voltages…..
You need a multimeter. Set it to VDC (I have been told set to 500v if you have it on there, but 200v will suffice). Place the black lead to a grounded source. This can be any heatsink on the chassis, or simply connect it to the chassis frame itself (preferred). Now you take the red lead, this is what you use to make contact with the location the manual specifies. Most of the monitors I personally work on are WG k7000s because most of my games happened to have those in them when I bought them (and they are extremely common). A good location to test on these chassis is "R301, which is the large ceramic resistor mounted to the side of the chassis" (member KevinMullins taught me this, thanks Kevin).
Ground the black lead, then place the tip of the red lead on one of the ends of this R301 resistor. There are two ends, one will give you a high reading of approximately 145v, but the other one, which is the important one, should read approximately 130v.
Although different monitors have different B+ testing locations, and usually multiple locations at that, the idea is the same and I hope this helps break it down a little more than you typically find with a search.
Kalamath's suggestion below is an excellent one. It is much safer because it saves you from having to put a hand near the danger zone.
The picture below was provided by Buffett on another thread. He provides a lot of suggestions regarding chassis repairs, and will even repair your K7000's if you cannot fix them yourself. Thank you Buffett.
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