chassis with 9 pins

shardian

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I found a TV for free this weekend, and it has 9 pins on the neckboard. Before I move forward with testing and/or junking, are there any 19" chassis out there with 9 pins?

I only have K7000 and G07 monitors - 7 and 11, respectively.
 
I found a TV for free this weekend, and it has 9 pins on the neckboard. Before I move forward with testing and/or junking, are there any 19" chassis out there with 9 pins?

I only have K7000 and G07 monitors - 7 and 11, respectively.

You must not be counting the focus pin inside the key molding. The 19" K7000 has 8 pins - 7 around the outside and 1 in the key. The G07, K4600, K4900, and a few others have 10 pins - 9 around the outside and one in the key.

I'm betting your TV tube actually has 10 pins, not 9....
 
I don't think you can just count the number of pins.

I'm not an expert on this though so don't take this on gospel.


Edit: Looks like mod beat me to it.
 
I just looked at Bob Roberts Chassis ID page, and I counted 11 pins around the outside on the outside for a G07. Yeah, I was just counting the 'outside' pins.

I looked at the Bob Roberts thing again, and it helps when you zoom in. ;)

So this tube is at least pin-wise compatible with my G07 monitors. Cool! Now I get to measure the yoke. I'm starting to like this monitor work.

So I measure the impedance, and the physical diameter of the yoke, right?
 
You need to know the tube's neck diameter: 22.5 mm (a.k.a. small neck or 8 pin) or 29 mm (a.k.a. large neck or 10 pin). You also need to know the tube number in the monitor now and the tube number of what you want to put in there. Looks those numbers up in the B&K rejuvenator setup guide to see if those tube numbers use the same adapter (for example CR-23).

If you have an "inductance" measuring meter, measure the inductance (milliHenrys) of both the horizontal and vertical sections of the yokes on both tubes. If you don't have an inductance measuring meter, then you'll only be able to measure the DC resistance (ohms) of the yoke which will give you a general idea of compatibility. You measure the yoke's inductance and resistance with the yoke unplugged from the circuit board (power off naturally).

Remember, Electrohome's yoke connector is physically laid out differently and uses different colors for each section than other brands of monitors.
 
Hey Ken.

I did a tube swap for a G07 chassis, and have been having a hell of a time with convergence issues. If I slide the yoke snug against the tube (and the wedges), i get perfect convergence, but the colors are off extremely. The screen is mostly red on bottom, green in the middle, and blue on top (vertical orientation). Degaussing does nothing.

If I back up the yoke about a half-inch from the front of the tube, the colors are perfect, but the screen looks slightly rounded at the far corners. If I come back any farther, the convergence goes wacky.

Even though the neck is the right diameter, could the body of the tube be angled differently enough to cause it not to deflect properly when seated fully?
 
On every picture tube made in the last 30 years, there's giant raised lettering in the glass.

It will be either "90V" or "100V". This indicates 90 degree or 100 degree deflection angle respectively.

Remember that yoke convergence does not necessarily mean the yoke is to be fully forward against the tube. Too far forward or to far backward will cause "purity" issues. This is why you use solid red and solid green colors on-screen from a pattern generator. You slide the yoke forward and backward on the neck until you have as pure of red or green as possible. Then you can start using the rubber wedges to slightly tilt the yoke.

The yoke controls the color purity and the convergence at the outer edges of the tube. The adjustable magnet rings on the neck control color convergence in the center of the tube face. All this can get quite tricky and can sometimes take 3 hours to get right.
 
You need to know the tube's neck diameter: 22.5 mm (a.k.a. small neck or 8 pin) or 29 mm (a.k.a. large neck or 10 pin). You also need to know the tube number in the monitor now and the tube number of what you want to put in there. Looks those numbers up in the B&K rejuvenator setup guide to see if those tube numbers use the same adapter (for example CR-23).

If you have an "inductance" measuring meter, measure the inductance (milliHenrys) of both the horizontal and vertical sections of the yokes on both tubes. If you don't have an inductance measuring meter, then you'll only be able to measure the DC resistance (ohms) of the yoke which will give you a general idea of compatibility. You measure the yoke's inductance and resistance with the yoke unplugged from the circuit board (power off naturally).

Remember, Electrohome's yoke connector is physically laid out differently and uses different colors for each section than other brands of monitors.

It is a 29mm neck. I meant to right down the tube info this morning, but forgot. I can tell you this: the yokes are paired red/blue and green/yellow and are side by side at the 4 pin harness connector. The red wire is thicker than the other 3 wires.
I looked in the BK setup guide, and I'm not sure what I am looking for. For a G07 tube, the CR/CA value is 23. I just need to see if the number is the same?


According to the vidiot.ca monitor type chart, this tube might be directly compatible with a WG K4600 chassis. Unfortunately, most of the K4600 data is missing from the chart. It does apparently have 9 ohms on the vertical yoke just like this tube though.

Does anyone have the missing data for a K4600 tube yoke requirements?
 
Good info Ken! It appears the original chart I used is a direct port of your byoac post:
http://www.vidiot.ca/montube.php

It also appears this Orion tube I have is directly compatible with a WG K4600 as I thought. Too bad I don't have any of those. But is that really too bad since I'm pretty sure there is no flyback replacments?
 
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