Chassis replacement (is it universal?)

OMG KON

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I have been digging around online for some much needed info, and I honestly can't find anything related to it. I have a busted monitor chassis and it needs a replacement.

The chassis itself is made by Pacific Data Technologies, which is based out of Korea and they through me an absurd quote on a chassis board replacement. So now I either find a new chassis or a I get a new flat screen monitor to put into my machine (which is something I don't want to do, since the monitor is 33" and it won't look nice).

I have stumbled upon two different options in regards to a chassis. A generic one, or one that was taken from a different monitor. There were the two I am looking at buying for my machine...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kortek-KT-3...551?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43a98e7d67
or this one...
http://www.happmart.com/Pro_Details.aspx?id=427&px=2&sid=122

I basically am curious as to which one I should choose, and if the Kortek one will even work in my machine.

If needed its going into a EZ2DJ arcade machine from Korea. The tube is made by RCA, but the chassis is made by PDT (Pacific Data Technology). The monitor is 33". If any more information is needed let me know. I need to get this problem fixed before mid-April, so I need to get on it here.
 
I don't know that monitor specifically, but I can tell you that by and large, a chassis is monitor specific. You can't take a chassis from one monitor and shove it into another, different monitor and just expect it to work. You need to be sure the yoke impedance is compatible, and the tube neck is the same.

There do exist "universal" chassis that work on a wider range of yokes, but you need to be sure it's compatible with the yoke you have. Usually it'll spec a range of values for the yoke resistance, which you can check with a meter.

But, generally speaking, unless something horrible happened to the chassis, or it needs a special part that's not available any more, then you don't replace a broken chassis, you repair it. If you start a thread about your monitor and explain what it's doing/not doing, and post some pictures of the chassis, perhaps we can assist you. But, then again, I've never heard of this company, perhaps it's a really weird thing that nobody has ever seen before...

-Ian
 
Thanks for your reply. Unfortunately so far everyone I asked about my chassis didn't know what is wrong. I did make a thread about the chassis/monitor before which you can see here...
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=222517
No one ended up getting back to me. I also noticed I posted it was a 27" monitor when it's a 33" monitor, and the chassis was cleaned recently which didn't help making it work again.

Unless I find out what is wrong within like the next week or so, I am going to have to either buy the universal or a new flat screen. If you think you know the problem, please let me know, because I am honestly stumped.
 
I didn't see that thread the first time around - sorry for that.

But, looking at it now... are you sure the monitor is getting power? Check the voltage where it enters the monitor chassis, verify that you're even getting power to it. You mention that you have to run the cabinet on a transformer, are you sure that's working correctly? You say that it's a step down transformer - are you sure that's right? It should be a step up transformer, as the US uses 120v, and Korea uses 220. Are you getting any life in the game at all?

-Ian
 
Not a problem. The cabinet is getting plenty of life. I play music on it whenever I am working in my garage, and the speaker lights, audio and some other lights turn on. The box I am using is both transformers, I just plugged in the power cable from the cabinet into 220v like I was supposed to to make it work on 120v outlets like the ones at my house.

Me and m friend tested to make sure there was power going through the monitor's power cable, and it was. Just nothing on the board works. Not the chassis itself, the fans or anything. Every time I disconnect it, I don't even have to discharge it as no electricity was stored/built up. I guess everything combined is just making this whole situation puzzling to anyone I talk to about it.
 
OK, so you know that you're getting power *to* the monitor. A completely dead monitor is actually a pretty common failure mode.

Now you need to follow the tracks on the board - look for fuses. Most monitors have two - one for the incoming AC line, and one for the monitor's main power supply rail, called the B+. This monitor is a fair bit newer than most I'm used to working on, but I can tell from the pictures it has a switching style B+ supply. It might not have it's own fuse. Normally with that kind of monitor, when the B+ gets overloaded (say, due to a shorted HOT), you get a chirp...chirp...chirp... noise from it.

Also, I have to ask - you did remember to connect the deflection yoke, right? The copper coil of wire on the neck of the picture tube. Some monitors won't power on without that.

-Ian
 
The monitor does have the coil on it. The only reason why this chassis wasn't attached was because it would have moved around in the cabinet because of missing screws. Everything is there, but like I said in the previous thread, it was having issues.

Currently Star World's arcade is looking at it and my friend is going to drop it back off at my house during the week. I have no idea if they just looked at it or fixed something though, it sounds like they just looked at it for me, so I'll need to take a look at the chassis again when I get it back into my hands.
 
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