Chassis model?

badgerfan21

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Hello fellow arcade warriors,

I turned on my T2 cab on the other day, and all of a sudden playing blind now. ugh, never ending issues with fixing one, and another pops up. Wanting to do a cap kit but seeing if anyone knows what chassis this is so I can order correct one.

Thank you,
Tony
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looks like it had an old Bob Roberts cap kit put on it at one time. Be aware these have very weak traces and can be easily pulled, especially since a cap kit was already done.
 
Hello fellow arcade warriors,

I turned on my T2 cab on the other day, and all of a sudden playing blind now. ugh, never ending issues with fixing one, and another pops up. Wanting to do a cap kit but seeing if anyone knows what chassis this is so I can order correct one.

Thank you,
Tony
View attachment 826659

View attachment 826658

A lot goes bad on the chassis even bad connections it's best to have the chassis out so all parts can be seen by accomplished help
We or I know where to look
And Can see the parts on the board

But first you need to remove the power plug to the board and confirm the female pins are tight
The symptom for that is all the sudden the chassis don't work You may have move the game or just stress from the hanging ac wires
Pins something to eliminate first.
Caps do look original but I would test the b+
Test point You will need to confirm good b+ at sometime or another!
schematic is over at parts manual section
Good luck!
 
A lot goes bad on the chassis even bad connections it's best to have the chassis out so all parts can be seen by accomplished help
We or I know where to look
And Can see the parts on the board

But first you need to remove the power plug to the board and confirm the female pins are tight
The symptom for that is all the sudden the chassis don't work You may have move the game or just stress from the hanging ac wires
Pins something to eliminate first.
Caps do look original but I would test the b+
Test point You will need to confirm good b+ at sometime or another!
schematic is over at parts manual section
Good luck!
I had a U5000 years ago where the power plug on the deflection board was so loose (meaning the solder disintegrated that much) that I was able to pull it out. that's an absolutely must resolder point on all monitors of this generation.

B+ TP202 is just below R100. do not use Video B+ TP203, that's not what you're trying to measure. you may want to search for and watch U5000 videos here, one of them has to show the light bulb test (where you actually do need to use it cause this is SMPS, not linear like a K7000) https://www.youtube.com/@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair
 
Hello fellow arcade warriors,

Been awhile, but ended up gettin the chassis serviced. game is no longer playing blind, however I can't for the life of me get the picture/monitor brighter, it is super dark. any ideas where to start or if I need to send it back and get it looked at again? speaking of power issues, seems like when it rains it powers

-I have two sets of PP1 boards that I recently got serviced, however both are rebooting on me, and high scores keep resetting back to factory score there is interference at times when the monitor almost goes out and then scrambles and comes back to normal display. just had that chassis serviced as well, and there is the scrolling bar that you kind of see now too when playing
-Bezerk monitor doing this wavy thing now when the game is on
-Donkey kong monitor doing the same wavy thing as well when the game is on
 
Hello fellow arcade warriors,

Been awhile, but ended up gettin the chassis serviced. game is no longer playing blind, however I can't for the life of me get the picture/monitor brighter, it is super dark. any ideas where to start or if I need to send it back and get it looked at again? speaking of power issues, seems like when it rains it powers

-I have two sets of PP1 boards that I recently got serviced, however both are rebooting on me, and high scores keep resetting back to factory score there is interference at times when the monitor almost goes out and then scrambles and comes back to normal display. just had that chassis serviced as well, and there is the scrolling bar that you kind of see now too when playing
-Bezerk monitor doing this wavy thing now when the game is on
-Donkey kong monitor doing the same wavy thing as well when the game is on
monitor: tube could just be bad. lot of U5000s got mated to Zenith tubes that don't like being run flat like T2 needs.

PP: do you still have the nicad battery on the CPU board? (see: https://www.arcaderepair.net/2024/01/15/pole-position-battery-leak-saga/) if you have no backup battery source or NVRAM replacement you will lose high scores. one of the double negatives of the nicad battery was the games were set to not even use it, and if you left it for 40+ years it will destroy things. lol

DK: do you know how to test B+? the test point on those is BJ (easy to remember lol) and it should be 108V. if yours is abnormally low then the filter cap is bad, which is becoming more common on the Sanyo monitors. if it's high then I would suspect bad voltage regulator, which is just theoretical for me, I've never needed to replace one of those. also if you haven't installed a cap kit now would be a great time to do so because the caps Sanyo used leak.
 
It looks like the only two brightness controls would be on the flyback and on the remote control board. Assuming B+ voltage is correct that is.

 
monitor: tube could just be bad. lot of U5000s got mated to Zenith tubes that don't like being run flat like T2 needs.

PP: do you still have the nicad battery on the CPU board? (see: https://www.arcaderepair.net/2024/01/15/pole-position-battery-leak-saga/) if you have no backup battery source or NVRAM replacement you will lose high scores. one of the double negatives of the nicad battery was the games were set to not even use it, and if you left it for 40+ years it will destroy things. lol

DK: do you know how to test B+? the test point on those is BJ (easy to remember lol) and it should be 108V. if yours is abnormally low then the filter cap is bad, which is becoming more common on the Sanyo monitors. if it's high then I would suspect bad voltage regulator, which is just theoretical for me, I've never needed to replace one of those. also if you haven't installed a cap kit now would be a great time to do so because the caps Sanyo used leak.
that is what I was thinking too, might be. out of luck, and just need a new monitor. wondering if I can find one for sale on here??

PP: I did have NVRAM replacement done one both sets of boards. first set would reset and Rom 2, 28, 30 errors popped up, but no errors on the second set. the game will run fine for awhile, and then automatically do these random resets and restart the game and I lose scores..

DK: I actually just had the chassis cap kit/serviced done as well. figured after I had done these cap kits/serviced, monitors would be coming back issue free and looking awesome. getting a crash course in this hobby for sure lol
 
that is what I was thinking too, might be. out of luck, and just need a new monitor. wondering if I can find one for sale on here??

PP: I did have NVRAM replacement done one both sets of boards. first set would reset and Rom 2, 28, 30 errors popped up, but no errors on the second set. the game will run fine for awhile, and then automatically do these random resets and restart the game and I lose scores..

DK: I actually just had the chassis cap kit/serviced done as well. figured after I had done these cap kits/serviced, monitors would be coming back issue free and looking awesome. getting a crash course in this hobby for sure lol
it's the worst affliction ever.
 
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