chassis identify please

Tom thank you

im having issues with 2 of these which seems to be horiz hold issues this is what im seeing.... any advise is appreciated...
thanks
 

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ive played with the ones on the lil remote pcb and the ones on the back of there tube.... which other should i play with i saw 2 lil ones on the pcb ... which are you referring to ...please excuse me im not tooooooo familiar with these ... enuff to get by with help but no expert

Thanks
 
That chassis also has a positive/negative button for switching sync. It's visible in your picture.....black square with a white plunger top. Try pushing it and see what happens.

Edward
 
thanks ill try that n see what happens.... what exactly does that pushbutton thing do ???
 
tried all the above with no change... also tried a chill test and get some reaction but its not consistant bythe pot... Changed the cap in front of it and it seemed ok and started doing it again .....im going nutz here..... chassis in out in out....
where do i go next ... full cap kit??? or the sync IC ????
Thanks
 
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Start with a full cap kit. Then you have an almost "clean" build, and you can rule out those random failures.

Resistors are fairly stable - they generally don't go bad, but I have run into two in my life that violated that rule - one on a tube transmitter / receiver in the squelch circuit that I refused to fiddle with because "resistors never fail." Phooey!
 
youd suspect the full cap kit sooner that the sync ic??? seems when i plated areound near that ic it changed things as i rest my finger on it... I ordered one and have it out...... Im going for caps and IC and hoping no matter what that will fix it.....if your somewhat confident the IC probably isnt the cause Ill cap it n put the IC back in tonight n see what it does..... Whata think???? Dont be afraid to give me your gut feeling, im at a loss here n willing to try anythhing.
 
The purpose of a capacitor is to block AC. If it is shorted or leaking, AC can get through. So, if your IC is expecting solid DC, and starts getting Ac, things can get twitchy, right?

Capacitors do wear out over time. Electrolyte seeps or leaks out, cases swell, and it starts to have problems. The quickest way to reset the life of a monitor is to re-cap it.

I have two at the arcade I work at, that need a re-cap job. I'll be ordering them up as soon as I determine what the monitors are, so I can use them as my winter projects. I'd rather do it in the winter, since I have to take revenue producing games off line, and the store has less traffic in the winter.

For you Omaha residents, you can stop by the arcade - it's in the Hollywood Candy building at 12th and Jackson, all the way to the south, past the lunch counter on the east side of the building, where the board walk is.

Games range from 1 to 4 tokens per play.
 
Here's where I am since I last posted ....... Did a full recap and sync ic chip ....... Seemed fine I left it go for hours and it was ok ....... One time when I turned the game off them back on the horiz hold was off ..... Just basically touched the pot n it was ok........ Put it back in my route and after 3 days I get a call its doing the same I go up there n same thing slight adjustment n it's ok for a whole again .......... I'm beginning to suspect that pot....... Btw does anyone know the value of that pot cause I want to change it and eliminate that as well

Thanks
 
Download the manual, all pot values are listed.


Here's where I am since I last posted ....... Did a full recap and sync ic chip ....... Seemed fine I left it go for hours and it was ok ....... One time when I turned the game off them back on the horiz hold was off ..... Just basically touched the pot n it was ok........ Put it back in my route and after 3 days I get a call its doing the same I go up there n same thing slight adjustment n it's ok for a whole again .......... I'm beginning to suspect that pot....... Btw does anyone know the value of that pot cause I want to change it and eliminate that as well

Thanks
 
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