Chassis ID help

PrairieDillo

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I couldn't figure it out.

Please help... Yes I did look at bob's monitor ID page.

It came out of a Koam Big Blue. The tube matches my WG 25" K7000 tubes so hmmm at least i can rejuv it.

At first I thought it was a Hanterex MTC 9000 because of the fan but it's clearly not on closer inspection. Slow loads have made me give up on the Monitor ID page...

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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I think...

It's a Kortek K1-2-VO or similar. If it's 25" or around there, it might be a close model, but it's hard to tell from the pics. You might need to pull that puppy and dust it off, then take a better pic.
 
Thanks Guys, I'll pull the Chassis tonight and get a better look at it. The board wasn't very dusty but I wasn't able to find a model number.

It's funny to me cause it looks like a mirror (left to right) flip of a K7000 with a fan on top. The Filter cap was in the back left side and there was a monitor adjustment board also.

It's got a jump hor position pot and hor hold pot. I'm going to look to match them today.
 
Sorry, they don't match

I looked specifically at where the filter cap was to compare what monitor it could be.

Like I said it really looks like a left to right Mirror image of a K7000. I guess tonight when I pull it, I'm just going to to a cap comparison to a K7000 kit.

Circled the filter cap in the attached photo. Looking at that ceramic resistor in front of it really reminds me of the K7000 25". The tube even matches my K7000s too.

EDIT:
Thanks for all of the help. It is a clone of a K7000. All of the cap values are virtually the same and in nearly mirror locations. Some are labled slightly different. I couldn't find C10 but C7 had a similar value.
 

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Added pic of the chassis when it was out.

I found a clear Kortek logo but no model number at all.

I capped the monitor and rejuved the tube and now it looks great.

Only problem now is that the horz pos pot does nothing and sometimes the thing jumps to vert colapse and then it'll jump back. I wonder if a solder point isn't on right. The monitor is sensitive to cabinet vibrations also.
 

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Cold solder joints.

Kortek sometimes puts the model number on the outer perimeter of the circuit board on the foil side. Usually you must remove that metal band frame that holds the main circuit board to see the number.
 
Cold solder joints.

Kortek sometimes puts the model number on the outer perimeter of the circuit board on the foil side. Usually you must remove that metal band frame that holds the main circuit board to see the number.

Thanks, I'll go over the solder side to see if I can hit any or all cold solder joints. Do you happen to know where the verticle section of the board is? I want to concentrate on that section and reflow most, if not all of the solders.

Yeah the band looked like a huge pain to take off since is bolted to a housing around the flyback and then there's the IC's that are screwed to the housing. C42 was under there and since the monitor already works generally fine I decided to leave that cap untouched. I really only wanted to cap the monitor cause of some color issues and there was some hard to describe distortion across the image.

When working it actually looks pretty darned good now. There's just a small bit of convergence of the colors that I have not looked into how to fix. I'm still learning so much about monitor repair but I do appreciate any and all help I have gotten from you guys. I feel so accomplished when I can actually get a monitor looking good. Almost like a proud father.
 
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