Ill take some tonight if i dont have those pics on my phone.
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Chase HQ restoration
- Thread starter matsadona
- Start date
OP
OP
Thanks a lot for the pictures. However it doesn't really answer my questions. I.e what were they thinking at Taito when designing this? It beats me.
The only thing I can imagine is that the patrol lights was intended to be 12V bulbs initially.
Why would there else be a high current circuit at the main pcb?
There is nothing on the external driver board that needs a high current 12V signal.
The external board has a binary counter and a 2-to-1 multiplexer and my guess is that it is to reduce the flash frequency. And an inverter circuit to change the signal back to "normally off".
Then finally there is a zero point triac driver for each channel and a triac with noise filters.
My solution would probably be to just remove IC76 and pull the signal from there and drive the solid state relays. Else I have to use resitors to get the voltage down and I also need an inverter circuit... If I ever get an external driver pcb I have to convert it to 240V, so probably more convenient for me not to.
By the way, adding a picture of my SSR's. They are just 5 bucks at ebay, and I love them. Have used them for several light projects, including a giant (240V) VU-meter =)
The only thing I can imagine is that the patrol lights was intended to be 12V bulbs initially.
Why would there else be a high current circuit at the main pcb?
There is nothing on the external driver board that needs a high current 12V signal.
The external board has a binary counter and a 2-to-1 multiplexer and my guess is that it is to reduce the flash frequency. And an inverter circuit to change the signal back to "normally off".
Then finally there is a zero point triac driver for each channel and a triac with noise filters.
My solution would probably be to just remove IC76 and pull the signal from there and drive the solid state relays. Else I have to use resitors to get the voltage down and I also need an inverter circuit... If I ever get an external driver pcb I have to convert it to 240V, so probably more convenient for me not to.
By the way, adding a picture of my SSR's. They are just 5 bucks at ebay, and I love them. Have used them for several light projects, including a giant (240V) VU-meter =)
Attachments
OP
OP
Finally I got it working properly =)
Got a new RGB circuit (which was a great pain in the ass to replace by the way) so there is full color again.
The patrol lights was solved by a "hack" pulling the non inverted signal before IC76 on the main board, driving my solid state relays. Not the prettiest way to do it, but it is working.
I'll post some pictures later. Now I'll go to bed with a smile
Got a new RGB circuit (which was a great pain in the ass to replace by the way) so there is full color again.
The patrol lights was solved by a "hack" pulling the non inverted signal before IC76 on the main board, driving my solid state relays. Not the prettiest way to do it, but it is working.
I'll post some pictures later. Now I'll go to bed with a smile
Womble
Well-known member
In my cab the lights are driven by the two large transistors on the main board so they would be 12V bulbs, certainly no relays in the cab here.
OP
OP
Thansk Womble, I was hoping that someone would confirm that.
Can you describe the behavior as well? Are they glowing (reduced effect) and then flashing in the game, or is it the opposite? According to the schematics and the high power resistors on the board, there is a leak current making the bulbs be driven with reduced power at some time.
Can you describe the behavior as well? Are they glowing (reduced effect) and then flashing in the game, or is it the opposite? According to the schematics and the high power resistors on the board, there is a leak current making the bulbs be driven with reduced power at some time.
They wig wag. Two pulses per side once you catch up to the chase car. Shouldnt be on until that point.
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OP
OP
The LS273 circuit (IC77) is using two parallell flip-flops to flash the patrol lights (when you are in the pursuit mode). One is at 2 Hz and the other at 4Hz (approximately). I will post a video later showing exactly how it behaves when I pull the signal directly from the flip-flop without any inverting signals and that other stuff.
OP
OP
Here's a short Youtube video showing part of the restoration and some gameplay including the flashpattern on the patrol lights.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L5YBn_qi8e4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L5YBn_qi8e4
I am in need of the RGB module found on the main board at location IC1. Can you tell me where you found your RCB circuit?
OP
OP
Got it from a member at the Swedish arcade forum arkadtorget.se.
I have learned that this is a quite common issue on the Taito boards with this module, so I guess I was lucky.
Have seen several dead boards at Ebay, but with that specific module missing...
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I have scored a working boardset and installed it today. I have everything working but the steering and shifter because they are not getting any power at the moment. It looks like my RFI board is missing some wiring. Could you take some pics of yours by chance? I am so stinking close to having this working! Maybe Spyridon will come down to my house then.
OP
OP
I would if I could. But I don't have the RFI board, nor do I have the lamp driver board. Just the main board.
It has been working fine though, without the other boards.
