Championship Sprint to Paperboy Conversion

vegas12

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I recently convert s a Championship Sprint to Paperboy and had a couple questions. First I thought it would help to share that the CS probably started life as a dedicated CS and not the other way around. The clues are that inside the cab, there are the blocking and a the small door that would cover the pedal compartment that are neatly stapled to the inside of the cabinet. Second clue is that the Power supply is a combination of a switcher (it was a "sensing" switcher") and the very small AR amp that is inside the the coin compartment - I believe this was the latest version used to power the final System 2 cabinets. Earlier Paperboys had the large AR boards mounted under the PCBs and the "big blue" caps inside the base of the cab.

Questions:

1.CS was not a stereo game and paperboy is - so I'm not sure if my cab is wired for stereo and how to do it - I have attached pictures of the current wiring.

2. The early paperboys had two power supplies - one for each PCB. I have run wires to each of the +5 test points (similar to the pole position method) to attempt to get +5 to all the of the PCB - but I still lose voltage where the power supply reads +5 and the PCB test point are under +5. I have turned up the power supply to greater than +5 to get the PCB at +5 but this makes me nervous. Was wondering if I should get a second switcher and run additional +5 to the lower PCB?

Thanks!

First picture is the right speaker. Second picture is the left speaker.
 

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Both speakers go to plug P8 that connects to the A/R III. It looks like you've got LS1, you just need to add LS2:

LdrD2XS.png


For 5V, as long as your PCB test points don't go over 5.1 I wouldn't worry about it.
 
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Oops, I missed the part that you have the newer audio board that CS came with. This schematic for CS shows that it's indeed wired for two speakers. Are you sure you don't have stereo?

3KX5kLW.png
 
Oops, I missed the part that you have the newer audio board that CS came with. This schematic for CS shows that it's indeed wired for two speakers. Are you sure you don't have stereo?

3KX5kLW.png

I actually have both speakers wired separately - with white/orange and white/brown. I just couldn't tell by the sound if I had stereo or not. With the schematic I can follow the wires down to the amp and know for sure when I get home, but it does look like it's wired for stereo.

Thanks Zoner!!
 
My Paperboy has two of the older Peter Chou's for each of the boards (as you mentioned.) I believe the older models were certified for 3A max. In my testing Paperboy runs between 2.1 - 2.2 continuous amps, with a little more on startup (the modern Happ's that ArcadeShop sells are rated 15A for comparison).

Not only does two help balance the load across the two boards, it balances the stress on the switchers. Making them run cooler and more efficient. I like the design. http://www.arcadeshop.com/i/804/switching-power-supply-15-amp.htm
 
I actually have both speakers wired separately - with white/orange and white/brown. I just couldn't tell by the sound if I had stereo or not. With the schematic I can follow the wires down to the amp and know for sure when I get home, but it does look like it's wired for stereo.

Thanks Zoner!!

Sound tests should help in that regard. IIRC the test hits each channel/speaker independently. (Yep, just checked. Called the "Yamaha Test" in the manual)

Not only does two help balance the load across the two boards, it balances the stress on the switchers. Making them run cooler and more efficient. I like the design. http://www.arcadeshop.com/i/804/switching-power-supply-15-amp.htm

Would you mind explaining the load/stress concept further so I can understand your point? I never saw the 2 supplies as a solution but rather a band-aid.

IIRC 2 supplies is a patch for issues with power delivery and losses on System 2 boards created by connectors that degrade over time which is then exacerbated by some board design issues. It's not a supply problem. 2 supplies simply allow one to overdrive the supplies to individually overcome those issues (mostly the connectors) on each board independently. Also, operating at a lower % of capacity might lower overall heat but as long as you are not over the rated current for any given supply there shouldn't be any issues. I.e. why would more/less efficiency matter? Age of the supply is important for (assuming normal operation) waveform/power (caps) but but that's just signal quality.
 
I was missing half the audio in my champ sprint(paperboy conversion) and traced it to a Tda2002(Q9) on the CPU board, swapped in a new one and now it's working great.
 
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...Would you mind explaining the load/stress concept further so I can understand your point? I never saw the 2 supplies as a solution but rather a band-aid.

IIRC 2 supplies is a patch for issues with power delivery and losses on System 2 boards created by connectors that degrade over time which is then exacerbated by some board design issues. It's not a supply problem. 2 supplies simply allow one to overdrive the supplies to individually overcome those issues (mostly the connectors) on each board independently. Also, operating at a lower % of capacity might lower overall heat but as long as you are not over the rated current for any given supply there shouldn't be any issues. I.e. why would more/less efficiency matter? Age of the supply is important for (assuming normal operation) waveform/power (caps) but but that's just signal quality.

I completely agree with your band-aid theory, but I'm not entirely convinced it's a connector problem if he performed the 5V test point wiring fix (Pole Position) and he's still dropping voltage. Admittedly one of newer supplies should be more than enough.
 
1.CS was not a stereo game and paperboy is - so I'm not sure if my cab is wired for stereo and how to do it - I have attached pictures of the current wiring.

I think at this point you recognize that you are just missing one speaker and that CS/PB are both stereo games but I'm typing it out anyway.

2. The early paperboys had two power supplies - one for each PCB. I have run wires to each of the +5 test points (similar to the pole position method) to attempt to get +5 to all the of the PCB - but I still lose voltage where the power supply reads +5 and the PCB test point are under +5. I have turned up the power supply to greater than +5 to get the PCB at +5 but this makes me nervous. Was wondering if I should get a second switcher and run additional +5 to the lower PCB?

Thanks!

First picture is the right speaker. Second picture is the left speaker.

What is going to help us (me anyhow) is how much over 5v you turned up the power supply, where on the boards you are measuring, and what value you are getting at those points.

In my experience the +5v value measured from a common ground to various points on the boards has a pretty good variation depending upon how far away from the power input pins you are. (Video is more so than the CPU). This is just part of the design (not a good part either). As long as the power stays within the TTL allowable range you are fine. I can't recall that range right now (+-.2v???)

Anyway, Don't forget that you also need to do the "testpoint" mod to the ground lines too. Just the +5v side is only half the equation. If the ground pins on the connector are toast they cause the same problems.
 
I think at this point you recognize that you are just missing one speaker and that CS/PB are both stereo games but I'm typing it out anyway.



What is going to help us (me anyhow) is how much over 5v you turned up the power supply, where on the boards you are measuring, and what value you are getting at those points.

In my experience the +5v value measured from a common ground to various points on the boards has a pretty good variation depending upon how far away from the power input pins you are. (Video is more so than the CPU). This is just part of the design (not a good part either). As long as the power stays within the TTL allowable range you are fine. I can't recall that range right now (+-.2v???)

Anyway, Don't forget that you also need to do the "testpoint" mod to the ground lines too. Just the +5v side is only half the equation. If the ground pins on the connector are toast they cause the same problems.

The drop goes from 5 at the power supply to about 4.78 (from memory) but will need to recheck.

I don't recall if I wired up the grounds as well - I will do that ASAP if I didn't.

Thanks
 
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