Centipede Tan Screen, Keeps Clicking the Coin Counter, no other life

Officepot

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As the title states. What I have done so far:

Cleaned all socketed chips and reinstalled them.
Then after doing this it worked and played for about 5 minutes. Then I restarted the board and it went to this tan screen. Has never came back off it.
Cleaned the edge connector.
Attempted to boot in test mode does nothing. IMG_2837.jpeg
 

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How does your power look?

AC Ripple on the DC rail?

Remember, TTL logic HATES ripple.
 
@ArcadeTechGW thankfully, I have an upright centipede in my collection that I am using to test this board. Power is for sure good in my upright. Same issue in both the upright cabinet and cocktail cabinet. Will check for ripple on the DC rail. What part on the PCB could cause this? my upright PCB plays great in the upright cabinet

EDIT: would like to add I recapped the board and this did not change anything. Weirdest part for me is the coin counter clicking over and over randomly…
 
@ArcadeTechGW well... all is well... not sure what I did, just went through and took all the socketed chips out and reseated them all for the third time and it is happy. Playing just fine. Sorry to gum up the forum with such a quick thread but... who's to know! I guess moral of the story is clean your socketed chips and push them all the way back in!
 
@ArcadeTechGW well... all is well... not sure what I did, just went through and took all the socketed chips out and reseated them all for the third time and it is happy. Playing just fine. Sorry to gum up the forum with such a quick thread but... who's to know! I guess moral of the story is clean your socketed chips and push them all the way back in!


What you really need to do is clean the legs of all socketed chips.

There are spots of oxidation and other grime) that builds up on the chip legs, where they make contact with the socket. The sockets are fine, but if you look closely at the chip legs, you'll see dark spots where they make contact.

The solution is to take either a Dremel wire wheel brush, or get a fiberglass pen, and clean the insides and outsides of all chip legs, to grind those spots off. They're basically like microscopic rust spots, and they cause bad connections with the sockets. Then get some DeOxit D5S, apply some to the chip legs, and reseat the chip a couple of times.

This should be done to all games/boards, as it's an issue on any 40+ year-old piece of electronics. And it's the #1 thing you can do to improve reliability and reduce flaky behavior on any game. And you should always start with this for any non-working game (after checking power), before looking into replacing any other parts. Even if it won't fix all problems, it's the best place to start.
 
What you really need to do is clean the legs of all socketed chips.

There are spots of oxidation and other grime) that builds up on the chip legs, where they make contact with the socket. The sockets are fine, but if you look closely at the chip legs, you'll see dark spots where they make contact.

The solution is to take either a Dremel wire wheel brush, or get a fiberglass pen, and clean the insides and outsides of all chip legs, to grind those spots off. They're basically like microscopic rust spots, and they cause bad connections with the sockets. Then get some DeOxit D5S, apply some to the chip legs, and reseat the chip a couple of times.

This should be done to all games/boards, as it's an issue on any 40+ year-old piece of electronics. And it's the #1 thing you can do to improve reliability and reduce flaky behavior on any game. And you should always start with this for any non-working game (after checking power), before looking into replacing any other parts. Even if it won't fix all problems, it's the best place to start.
^ all of this

the old style dual wipe sockets with the very narrow holes require finesse and/or discipline with inserting chips if you ever come across those. it's easy to fold a rom leg. :) then you'll have problems.
 
Could be a cracked solder joint in or leg on one of those sockets if the issue persists.
@obitus1990 thanks! If it persists I will reflow and get the magnifier out to look for cracks
What you really need to do is clean the legs of all socketed chips.

There are spots of oxidation and other grime) that builds up on the chip legs, where they make contact with the socket. The sockets are fine, but if you look closely at the chip legs, you'll see dark spots where they make contact.

The solution is to take either a Dremel wire wheel brush, or get a fiberglass pen, and clean the insides and outsides of all chip legs, to grind those spots off. They're basically like microscopic rust spots, and they cause bad connections with the sockets. Then get some DeOxit D5S, apply some to the chip legs, and reseat the chip a couple of times.

This should be done to all games/boards, as it's an issue on any 40+ year-old piece of electronics. And it's the #1 thing you can do to improve reliability and reduce flaky behavior on any game. And you should always start with this for any non-working game (after checking power), before looking into replacing any other parts. Even if it won't fix all problems, it's the best place to start.
@andrewb Thank you as well! I did deoxit those sockets! but need to get myself a fiberglass pen and go through the chips. Thanks for the suggestions. I recently got a bunch of cocktail tables for winter projects, excited to get going on them! As soon as I got the games home I started by checking power supply and then deoxit + reseat the chips. Sounds like I was on the right track! Thanks again for all your expertise, it is great to have such a wealth of knowledge here on the forum.
 
DeOxit is good as a last step. And it should be used on every connector in the cab. But the mechanical cleaning of the chip legs is even more important, because DeOxit alone won't dissolve the oxide spots. Those have to be removed via physical means (i.e., grinding them off).

Then DeOxit is good after, to slow the formation of new oxidation, by sealing up the metal.
 
DeOxit is good as a last step. And it should be used on every connector in the cab. But the mechanical cleaning of the chip legs is even more important, because DeOxit alone won't dissolve the oxide spots. Those have to be removed via physical means (i.e., grinding them off).

Then DeOxit is good after, to slow the formation of new oxidation, by sealing up the metal.
Thanks @andrewb ! I will get myself a fiberglass pen ordered and will be sure to do this in order in the future.
 
@ArcadeTechGW thankfully, I have an upright centipede in my collection that I am using to test this board. Power is for sure good in my upright. Same issue in both the upright cabinet and cocktail cabinet. Will check for ripple on the DC rail. What part on the PCB could cause this? my upright PCB plays great in the upright cabinet

EDIT: would like to add I recapped the board and this did not change anything. Weirdest part for me is the coin counter clicking over and over randomly…
I got that on my Asteroids when I had a chip in the socket backwards. Yep, failure to check my work.

Pulled the chip, tested it in the RTC Pro, it was still good, so I put it in and all was well.
 
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