Centipede project

Are you following the flowchart each time?
Yes and a repair video and in the video of you test the B+ ceramic resistor and it doesn't get you around 220 ohms and measures close to 0 like a short then it's probably your voltage regulator and you can test that by itself and it seems that is shorted now . Starting to think it's because we had such wet and high humidity yesterday here my garage window was even fogging up .. read that can cause issues with high voltage regulators.

Let me know if this all makes sense to you guys or not. It does to me but open for input
 
Also, you may want to update the thread name to be "Centipede Project" or similar. Right now it's pretty generic. 😂

You will get more eyes on it (and more help since they know what the project is at first glance). 😉

Del
 
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Also, you may want to update the thread name to be "Centipede Project" or similar. Right now it's pretty generic. 😂

You will get more eyes on it (and more help since they know what the project is at first glance). 😉

Del
Done
 
1000000442.jpgits aliiiiivvveeee!!!!!.... Nowhow do I get rid of this curl on the left??
 

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Got everything put together and new molex connection
 
Well switched the syncs and started get jumbled letters with scrolling and then as I was messing with the horizontal frequency pot it went black ..
So I pulled the monitor back out and now that same fuse is blown!!!!! 😭 I just did all this work to the chassis and worked fine with Arkanoid for a few days now I ripped it all out and put centipede in it goes again??? Getting so frustrated at this point. Feeling lost
 
Well switched the syncs and started get jumbled letters with scrolling and then as I was messing with the horizontal frequency pot it went black ..
So I pulled the monitor back out and now that same fuse is blown!!!!! 😭 I just did all this work to the chassis and worked fine with Arkanoid for a few days now I ripped it all out and put centipede in it goes again??? Getting so frustrated at this point. Feeling lost
I don't know what monitor you have
 
G07

With a brand new flyback, HOT and voltage regulator and reflowed and caps where done last year
I've never replaced a voltage regulator on one of those ever. was the old one bad?

and which fuse is blown F901 or F902?
 
I've never replaced a voltage regulator on one of those ever. was the old one bad?

and which fuse is blown F901 or F902?
Yea F901 and yea after replacing the flyback and HOT it worked for a split second then I noticed I accidentally shorted the HOT and replaced it again. Then nothing then test the voltage regulator and it was bad so replaced and worked for a few weeks until just now that f901 is blown again
 
Yea F901 and yea after replacing the flyback and HOT it worked for a split second then I noticed I accidentally shorted the HOT and replaced it again. Then nothing then test the voltage regulator and it was bad so replaced and worked for a few weeks until just now that f901 is blown again
I've grounded to that metal cover thing behind H. Freq before, I don't ever remember it damaging anything though. I just don't reinstall them anymore.
 
I've grounded to that metal cover thing behind H. Freq before, I don't ever remember it damaging anything though. I just don't reinstall them anymore.
Yea wonder if I did that , but I'll take it all apart maybe tomorrow or something I'm just so defeated right now to continue. Need a break and research. Wish my DK board would get back soon so I can play some of these to get my motivation going again
 
we haven't solved the mystery yet
Well everything tested fine voltage regulator, HOT, diodes and resistors.. I guess the only thing left it replace the flyback?? Just seems so crazy to me that a brand new one would go bad so fast. Any thoughts?
 
Well everything tested fine voltage regulator, HOT, diodes and resistors.. I guess the only thing left it replace the flyback?? Just seems so crazy to me that a brand new one would go bad so fast. Any thoughts?
a bad flyback could cause F901 to blow, yes. that's all the deflection side parts. F902 would be where the AC power comes in, the bridge rectifier diodes being shorted would be the only thing that would make that blow that I can think of.

and the flybacks can just go bad. if you bought it recently I would reach out to @security0001 about it.

if you try powering the monitor up with F901 blown the large filter cap will retain charge and need to be discharged particularly if you are around any metal surfaces unless you like fireworks or getting shocked.
 
Got a different chassis so I can move forward and fix the other as a backup. Now following Andrewb suggestions on how to step by step test an unknown Atari cabinet, tested all voltages at the AR2 and this is what I got below:

Also think I hooked up the audio incorrectly to the pot yesterday as I heard a loud pop and I think it this resistor in the other photo.. just a guess 😂 luckily I might have that laying around from guitar pedal building days have to look it up
1000000478.jpg
 

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Ok replaced that resistor and trying to take reading at the edge connector everything seems close enough until I get to +22 it reads +23.3 and -22 is -23.4 or so and then when it plugged to the board and read from the PCB +5 it's showing+4.56 at the connector it's +5.16 or so and the pins look fine and PCB looks good but the top ground has some new solder/wire which makes it really hard to push connector onto it wondering if that's widening the gap for other connections?
 
After replacing the burnt up resistor on the AR2 board and replacing the 26,000 15v big capacitor
Turned the game on and saw better results could actually see it was centipede now loaded but still had some lines so was adjusting the monitor and about 2 minutes in from being turned on heard a zap ⚡ so shut off the cab...any suggestions? Not sure where the zap came from
 
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