Centipede project

Weird, sometimes no and sometimes yes... Lol
After following the chart instructions it is a constant continuity and reading 015
 
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Found my video wires now I need to buy a pin connector.. any suggestions where from? Also in the schematic it shows all 6 going to the 6 pin connector but what the other 3 pin for on the chassis?? Because arkanoid is using 4 on the 6 pin and 3 on the 3 pin
 
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Found my video wires now I need to buy a pin connector.. any suggestions where from? Also in the schematic it shows all 6 going to the 6 pin connector but what the other 3 pin for on the chassis?? Because arkanoid is using 4 on the 6 pin and 3 on the 3 pin
Do these work?
 
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Found my video wires now I need to buy a pin connector.. any suggestions where from? Also in the schematic it shows all 6 going to the 6 pin connector but what the other 3 pin for on the chassis?? Because arkanoid is using 4 on the 6 pin and 3 on the 3 pin

What you want are .156 Molex KK connectors, matching female crimp pins, snd and a decent ratcheting crimp tool.

 
Once you get that monitor fixed, It's going to be extremely difficult converting that cabinet back to Arkanoid.
 
What you want are .156 Molex KK connectors, matching female crimp pins, snd and a decent ratcheting crimp tool.

Ok so it is 4 pins into the 6 pin on the g07 PCB and the other 2 wires syncs go to the 3 pin?
 
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Once you get that monitor fixed, It's going to be extremely difficult converting that cabinet back to Arkanoid.
Thank God! 😂 I got a different centipede control panel though so with the arkanoid harness and controls and PCB I could use it in something else but might sell it not sure yet
 
Man I thought I had it ... Replaced the HOT and it worked for about 5 min.. now dead monitor again... Ugh
 
Man I thought I had it ... Replaced the HOT and it worked for about 5 min.. now dead monitor again... Ugh

You may have damaged the new flyback you installed, when you tried running it with a shorted HOT.

That's why it's necessary to replace all bad parts at the same time, as Phetishboy mentioned above.

And/or the chassis may have additional issues, on top of these.
 
You may have damaged the new flyback you installed, when you tried running it with a shorted HOT.

That's why it's necessary to replace all bad parts at the same time, as Phetishboy mentioned above.

And/or the chassis may have additional issues, on top of these.
I noticed the bottom white circle pad was a little off and put it back properly and replaced the fuse but the fuse blew again right at turn on.. I think the flyback is still good I think I shorted the HOT again though is the issue I have another on the way.. hopefully that's it
 
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Also is there anything else on the board that can short the HOT? Or was it most likely that white bushing not being aligned correctly?

Also when I took it back apart the HOT I just replaced reads shorted i guess following that arcade buffet video
 
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Safety first! And I'm not sure why no one mentioned it...

Step 1: I'm assuming you discharged the monitor before even working on it with a discharge tool in the anode cap?
Step 2: The F901 fuse needs to be checked out of circuit. It can give false readings otherwise.
Step 3: Lastly, if F901 is blown, the B+Filter cap is still charged. You need to discharge it, as it packs a wallop.

Moral of the story, discharge the tube first, then the filter cap from underneath. Then work on the chassis. I'm only mentioning this because you are new to the hobby. Some people think it's safe to handle and work on these as long as they are turned off. That's not the case. Especially with at G07 which is not self discharging.

Good luck!

Del
 
Safety first! And I'm not sure why no one mentioned it...

Step 1: I'm assuming you discharged the monitor before even working on it with a discharge tool in the anode cap?
Step 2: The F901 fuse needs to be checked out of circuit. It can give false readings otherwise.
Step 3: Lastly, if F901 is blown, the B+Filter cap is still charged. You need to discharge it, as it packs a wallop.

Moral of the story, discharge the tube first, then the filter cap from underneath. Then work on the chassis. I'm only mentioning this because you are new to the hobby. Some people think it's safe to handle and work on these as long as they are turned off. That's not the case. Especially with at G07 which is not self discharging.

Good luck!

Del
Hey thanks!! Yes luckily I stumbled across a YouTube channel called Mike armature monitor repair and he mentioned that!! Lol I have seen atleast 4 big zaps from that cap and yes I knew of the anode part but I thank you for caring!
 
Just replaced the horizontal output transistor again and fired it back up (also put a new power plug on since was missing the ground before) now when I power it on there is a zap I believe near the anode cup every time I power up . Could it be the flyback? I didn't see any issues with it and just replaced it prior??..wish I could show a video

Update I found a thread mentioning cleaning the anode cup and area did that and stopped spark but no picture still.. ugh
 
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Also ... Took the monitor back out no blown fuses, HOT tests just fine and no sign of flyback issue. Anything else to test?
 
I think it might be the voltage regulator
 
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