Djm
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After following the chart instructions it is a constant continuity and reading 015Weird, sometimes no and sometimes yes... Lol
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After following the chart instructions it is a constant continuity and reading 015Weird, sometimes no and sometimes yes... Lol
View attachment 825115
Found my video wires now I need to buy a pin connector.. any suggestions where from? Also in the schematic it shows all 6 going to the 6 pin connector but what the other 3 pin for on the chassis?? Because arkanoid is using 4 on the 6 pin and 3 on the 3 pin
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View attachment 825115
Found my video wires now I need to buy a pin connector.. any suggestions where from? Also in the schematic it shows all 6 going to the 6 pin connector but what the other 3 pin for on the chassis?? Because arkanoid is using 4 on the 6 pin and 3 on the 3 pin
www.arcadepartsandrepair.com
Ok so it is 4 pins into the 6 pin on the g07 PCB and the other 2 wires syncs go to the 3 pin?What you want are .156 Molex KK connectors, matching female crimp pins, snd and a decent ratcheting crimp tool.
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4 Pin .156 Molex KK Series Connector Housing No Ramp (CA1001) - Arcade Parts and Repair
4 Pin Circuit .156″ (3.96mm) Molex KK Series Monitor and Williams PCB Connector Housing No Ramp Female Receptacle 4 position 1 (single) row (CA1001).www.arcadepartsandrepair.com
Thank God!Once you get that monitor fixed, It's going to be extremely difficult converting that cabinet back to Arkanoid.
Man I thought I had it ... Replaced the HOT and it worked for about 5 min.. now dead monitor again... Ugh
I noticed the bottom white circle pad was a little off and put it back properly and replaced the fuse but the fuse blew again right at turn on.. I think the flyback is still good I think I shorted the HOT again though is the issue I have another on the way.. hopefully that's itYou may have damaged the new flyback you installed, when you tried running it with a shorted HOT.
That's why it's necessary to replace all bad parts at the same time, as Phetishboy mentioned above.
And/or the chassis may have additional issues, on top of these.
Hey thanks!! Yes luckily I stumbled across a YouTube channel called Mike armature monitor repair and he mentioned that!! Lol I have seen atleast 4 big zaps from that cap and yes I knew of the anode part but I thank you for caring!Safety first! And I'm not sure why no one mentioned it...
Step 1: I'm assuming you discharged the monitor before even working on it with a discharge tool in the anode cap?
Step 2: The F901 fuse needs to be checked out of circuit. It can give false readings otherwise.
Step 3: Lastly, if F901 is blown, the B+Filter cap is still charged. You need to discharge it, as it packs a wallop.
Moral of the story, discharge the tube first, then the filter cap from underneath. Then work on the chassis. I'm only mentioning this because you are new to the hobby. Some people think it's safe to handle and work on these as long as they are turned off. That's not the case. Especially with at G07 which is not self discharging.
Good luck!
Del