Centipede g07 repair kit installed - no life in monitor

[Oryk Zinyo]

There are rebuild kits available for both. I'd rebuild both, but I do that so there are no future problems. Bob Roberts carries the kits, but I don't know if he ships internationally, I am assuming you are European due to the number notations you have been using.

I am still looking for a good power drawing for the game...

 

[mchay]

There are rebuild kits available for both. I'd rebuild both, but I do that so there are no future problems. Bob Roberts carries the kits, but I don't know if he ships internationally, I am assuming you are European due to the number notations you have been using.

I am still looking for a good power drawing for the game...

He does ship internationally - I got the repair kit for the g07 monitor from him. I should have ordered the repair kits for the ARII and the PSU also :-/

power drawing?

 

[Oryk Zinyo]

power drawing?

I am trying to figure out what on the cpu uses the -5v. So far I haven't found a good schematic describing it. I am trying to figure out if the missing -5v would completely disable the board...

 

[vicjw66]

I have a centipede, unfortunately I left my multimeter at my parents. If memory serves wasn't the -5v for the audio circuit on the pcb board? I don't think it would cause the game not to work. Did you check the 7905 voltage regulator on the AR board? Maybe it failed.

 

[mchay]

I have a centipede, unfortunately I left my multimeter at my parents. If memory serves wasn't the -5v for the audio circuit on the pcb board? I don't think it would cause the game not to work. Did you check the 7905 voltage regulator on the AR board? Maybe it failed.

How is it possible to check if it's defective or not?

 

[Riptor]

How is it possible to check if it's defective or not?

The output leg is on the left, put a meter on it.

 

[mchay]

The game now plays blind. So far so good - but still no life in the monitor, so I took a couple of pictures and have some questions.

I1 and I2 - what is what? I dont se anything mentioned on the connectors for the chassis.

Does anything look suspicious? The connectors from the pcb, the placement of the connector on the neckboard or any of the other connectors?

 

[mchay]

The last pictures.. If there are any ideas on what to try out - post a reply

 

[Oryk Zinyo]

I1 and I2 are the degauss coil. It doesn't matter how you conect the wires.

The other set of connectors plugs into the two positions on your last pic. The housings are offset and should only be able to slide on one way.

 

[modessitt]

On your first pic, it appears the horizontal sync wire (purple/white) has been cut from the red connector and is going elsewhere? it needs to be reattached for Centipede.

That won't keep you from getting a picture, though. What is your B+ measuring at?

 

[Dokert]

Centipede is a positive sync game and this is wired wrong.



The wire in the white connector needs to be put back into the red connector, and throw away the white connector altogether.

There is at least one yoke wire that needs to be reseated into the connector in this pic.



The H Freq pot is busted and needs to be replaced.



The curl mod has not been done yet, and may or may not be a problem.

 

[mchay]

On your first pic, it appears the horizontal sync wire (purple/white) has been cut from the red connector and is going elsewhere? it needs to be reattached for Centipede.

That won't keep you from getting a picture, though. What is your B+ measuring at?

As I see it, the purple/white wire is going to the white connector, instead of the red. What wires have to go to the white connector?

I'll have to measure the B+. Where is the measuring point for this?

 

[Dokert]

As I see it, the purple/white wire is going to the white connector, instead of the red. What wires have to go to the white connector?

I'll have to measure the B+. Where is the measuring point for this?

No wires go in the white connector at all

Measure the B+ on the big ass white resistor on the left side of the monitor chassis as you are looking at it.

 

[mchay]

No wires go in the white connector at all

Measure the B+ on the big ass white resistor on the left side of the monitor chassis as you are looking at it.

Okay, I will throw out the white connector and place the purple wire in it's original place. Don't know why someone would want to hack it. Maybe to make it harder for me to get the machine working.

I'll check up on the B+ when I get home from work. Should I measure on both sides of the resistor?

 

[Dokert]

Set your meter to 200vdc
Red lead to the end of the resistor closest to the tube
Black lead to the monitor frame

Red lead to the end of the resistor furthest from the tube
Black lead to the monitor frame

Report back both readings.

 

[mchay]

Set your meter to 200vdc
Red lead to the end of the resistor closest to the tube
Black lead to the monitor frame

Red lead to the end of the resistor furthest from the tube
Black lead to the monitor frame

Report back both readings.

Which resistor is the one closest to the tube?

I'm guessing that the big white one on the side is the one furthest away from the tube.

 

[ArcRevival]

Bob Roberts site has pictures where he shows how to measure the b+ if i am not mistaken.

 

[Dokert]

Bob Roberts site has pictures where he shows how to measure the b+ if i am not mistaken.

Yep, I always forget where to find it. Here it is.

 

[mchay]

Yep, I always forget where to find it. Here it is.

It doesn't really sound right, but my meter is saying 169V - with no real difference when trying to correct it with the potmeter.

The missing yoke wire, could it have anything to do with the monitor not starting? I just saw it when you mentioned it. Does it sound right, that it is the place pointed out in the attached image?

 

[Dokert]

Remove transistor X701 and see if the monitor comes up. Sounds like you have a problem in the 900 section of the chassis. The X701 transistor is just to the right of the little silver cover in the center of the chassis.