Centipede ARII question

shado667

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Okay...Just did a complete ARII Centipede Cocktail cap repair. Also replaced Q3 (QN3055), Q8, Q9 and Q2. My problem is now that I'm only reading 18V AC and on the sound side of the board I'm not getting any voltages off my DC test points. Obviously, my pcb isn't seeing 5V either.

This is absolutely driving me nuts. I have perfect voltage going to my monitor still so it has to be something I did to the ARII but all my solder points look good.

Help please?
 
Went back and re-checked after I read your post...All caps are in correctly and solder looks good. The AC readings are still 18, DC voltages on the right half of the board are good, but the left half (speaker side) still have no voltage (actually it's like 0.320). Still no LED on the main PCB as well (that 5V doesn't register, but the 22V next to it does!)

Any other ideas?
 
Okay...Just did a complete ARII Centipede Cocktail cap repair. Also replaced Q3 (QN3055), Q8, Q9 and Q2. My problem is now that I'm only reading 18V AC and on the sound side of the board I'm not getting any voltages off my DC test points. Obviously, my pcb isn't seeing 5V either.

This is absolutely driving me nuts. I have perfect voltage going to my monitor still so it has to be something I did to the ARII but all my solder points look good.

Help please?

If you are getting 18VAC from the 36VAC lug and a ground lug....that's actually correct. You are only reading half the wave if you use a ground lug for it's reference...it's center tapped. If you've got 22VDC (or -22VDC), the 36VAC line is fine.

In reguards to the A/R II boards....22VDC, -22VDC, 12VDC, and -5VDC all come from the 36VAC line. If you have any one of these voltages...the 36VAC line is fine. 5VDC comes from the 10.3VDC line.

Are all your voltages basically zero (except for the 22VDC line)? What about the 10.3VDC (some A/R II boards label it as 10.6VDC) line?

Edward
 
The 10.3 VDC is reading 0....Both Speakers come up 0.286.

Thanks for the quick replies guys....This thing has ruined my day today!

Any other ideas?
 
The 10.3 VDC is reading 0....Both Speakers come up 0.286.

Thanks for the quick replies guys....This thing has ruined my day today!

Any other ideas?

The 10.3VDC line comes from the bridge rectifier under the transformer assembly....check your fuses (RE: F2) and take a look at that bridge.

Edward
 
Edward:

You are right....both F2 and F3 are blown. I did the Bob Roberts Bridge Repair today as well...not sure why they would have blown as the repair was pretty simple...18gauge wire just like in the diagram. Should I take a chance and just put the new fuses in or should I be looking at the bridge as a problem here?
 
Edward:

You are right....both F2 and F3 are blown. I did the Bob Roberts Bridge Repair today as well...not sure why they would have blown as the repair was pretty simple...18gauge wire just like in the diagram. Should I take a chance and just put the new fuses in or should I be looking at the bridge as a problem here?

Do you have a meter? If so, check the legs of the bridge for shorts.....if not, throw some fuses in there and see what happens. :)

Edward
 
Also, I assume you installed a new bridge from Bob? Did you hook it up correctly. All four legs are NOT the same. F3 blowing could be a bridge installed wrong.

Edward
 
I got the legs right, but I'm thinking about checking the bridge for shorts....not sure how to go about doing this though..
 
I got the legs right, but I'm thinking about checking the bridge for shorts....not sure how to go about doing this though..

Put your meter on diode test. Check each leg with the next leg beside it. None should zero0 out. You could also do this with ohms setting. Another thing you could do....unplug the big 15 pin connector on the transformer assembly. Flip the assembly over. Turn the game on. With the meter set to AC volts, probe the two legs of the bridge with orange wires....doesn't matter which lead go to which leg. You should see 12-15VAC (give or take). Set the meter to DC volts. Place the black lead on the leg of the bridge with the violet/white wire....place the red lead on the leg with the orange/black wire. You should see 10-15VDC. If the AC voltage is missing...you won't have the DC volts, and you blew F3 again....you got a bad bridge, or miss wired it, or the transformer itself is bad (very unlikely).

Edward
 
I'm off to get some more fuses tomorrow...Hopefully my wife will let me spend some "more time" on this thing tomorrow after work. It's blowing my mind trying to figure out if it's the ar2 or bridge....gotta be the ar2 as the bridge is brand new and the wiring is definitely right, but we'll see.

I'll post again tomorrow evening. Thanks again Edward.
 
followed your advice Edward and it ended up being a bad rectifier. Wiring was spot on, but blew with new fuses put in. I swapped out with a new rectifier and nothing blows...all voltages on the ARII are correct (as is my pcb 5V).

Now to figure out why I still have no sound or video! Looks to be something simple like a bad edge connector pad.

Will keep posting...Thanks
 
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