Carnevil start up problems.

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New game to me, have maybe 2-3 hours on it. I now plug it in and it appears that everything is starting but no sound or video. Monitor and speakers are fine, tested with another jamma board. It seems like its getting good ground and I adjusted +5V to 5.10/5.15 and tried slightly higher and lower ranges. Board looks good, cleaned some connections...but nothing seemed to help. Hard drive is firing up and spinning.

Any suggestions?
 
I found the dip switch settings (attached) and forced the start up into test mode. Although the disc hard drive is running, I am getting a disc read error, so I am now focusing on the hard drive.

Is there any conventional way to clean, check, troubleshoot the hard drive?
 

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I have a flash drive on mine as well going on two years, never had a issue.
 
I have found many multiple dip switch setting that all do not agree. Anyone have a shot of their dip switches?

WHY? I am an idiot and starting changing them without marking them down from the original. The flash drive now boots through in TEST setting, but game never starts.
 
I have found many multiple dip switch setting that all do not agree. Anyone have a shot of their dip switches?

WHY? I am an idiot and starting changing them without marking them down from the original. The flash drive now boots through in TEST setting, but game never starts.

did you get this figured out yet?

CarnEvil dip switch settings:
-----------------------------

Dip bank #1:

COINAGE SOURCE: (dip 1)
- Dipswitch OFF
- CMOS* ON
COINAGE: (dips 2-6)
- USA 1* OFF OFF OFF OFF OFF
- USA 2 ON OFF OFF OFF OFF
- USA 3 OFF ON OFF OFF OFF
- USA 4 ON ON OFF OFF OFF
- USA 5 OFF OFF ON OFF OFF
- USA 6 ON OFF ON OFF OFF
- USA 7 OFF ON ON OFF OFF
- USA ECA ON ON ON OFF OFF
- France 1 OFF OFF OFF ON OFF
- France 2 ON OFF OFF ON OFF
- France 3 OFF ON OFF ON OFF
- France 4 ON ON OFF ON OFF
- France 5 OFF OFF ON ON OFF
- France 6 ON OFF ON ON OFF
- France 7 OFF ON ON ON OFF
- France ECA ON ON ON ON OFF
- German 1 OFF OFF OFF OFF ON
- German 2 ON OFF OFF OFF ON
- German 3 OFF ON OFF OFF ON
- German 4 ON ON OFF OFF ON
- German 5 OFF OFF ON OFF ON
- German ECA ON ON ON OFF ON
- U.K. 1 OFF OFF OFF ON ON
- U.K. 2 ON OFF OFF ON ON
- U.K. 3 OFF ON OFF ON ON
- U.K. 4 ON ON OFF ON ON
- U.K. 5 OFF OFF ON ON ON
- U.K. 6 ON OFF ON ON ON
- U.K. 7 ECA OFF ON ON ON ON
- Free Play ON ON ON ON ON
UNKNOWN: (dip 7)
- Off OFF
- On* ON
POWER UP TEST LOOP: (dip 8)
- No* OFF
- Yes ON
UNKNOWN: (dip 9)
- 0 OFF
- 1* ON
RESOLUTION: (dips 10-11)
- Low* ON OFF
GRAPHICS SPEED: (dips 12-13)
- 45 MHz ON ON
- 47 MHz OFF ON
- 49 MHz ON OFF
- 51 MHz* OFF OFF
UNKNOWN: (dip 14)
- 0 OFF
- 1* ON
POWER ON SELF TEST: (dip 15)
- No* ON
- Yes OFF
TEST SWITCH: (dip 16)
- Off* OFF
- On ON

* - default setting


WARNING: These dip switches are parsed from
MAME source files so they can be incorrect!
 
I have an extra working board (mace), and swapped the 3 chips, gun board and put in the new flash drive. EVERY time the game starts perfectly, loads the swirling clown intro and freezes before any the 3 games start...it never gets into the actual game.

I tried the dip switch settings again, again and again, verified voltages, ran every test (all positive/good). I am stumped.
 
The mace pcb wont work for carnevil. It runs at 200 MHz :which is faster than carnevil can run. You need to swap the socketed square chip as well from the carnevil pcb. Ive tested this. I could run california speed at 200 mhz but it was about 2x faster than it should have been. Carnevil wont boot running at 200 mhz.


Hope this helps.
 
I will give it a shot tonight and report back. At least that makes some rational sense.


Anyone have success repairing the Seatle boards? I see them failing over and over again (in threads) but have not seen anything concrete on a specific compenent failure, or even methods of testing.

ToplessZ has been kind enough to loan me an extra hard drive for testing.
 
Unfortunately the PCU chip is soldered on the MACE board (not "socketed"): I am not even going to attempt to tackle that swap, so that is just a warning to others thinking the MACE board is a good candidate for a carnevil swap. or at least check the type of Seattle board before pulling the trigger to buy.

Blitz - 150 Mhz
Blitz 99 - 150 Mhz
Blitz 2000 - 150Mhz
Carnevil - 150 Mhz
Hyperdrive - 200 Mhz
California Speed - 150mhz
Mace: Dark age - 200 mhz
Vapor TRX - 200Mhz

Pic for reference (left is soldered, right has a socket and is removable)
 

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Simple fix : Shoot the pcb with a mac dev clone. Alot. Problem gone for sure!

So i assume your back to the original board at this point? Im not very familiar with this boardset, but what was the status of the board when you got it? Was it working, then went out after a few hours? Have you verified voltages anywhere on the board, away from the edge connector/ May just be a trace got broken if the board wasnt anchored down in the move or something stupid like that for all we know at this point.
 
if your JAMMA edge is charred in the +5 spot, that will cause your voltage to drop below operating range. I've seen it on a Seattle board before. meter the hard drive plug with the hard drive plugged in at the red and black wire holes to verify that your +5 is at least getting through to the JAMMA edge.

your voltage at the power supply does not matter, the voltage on the board does. and no, the proper solution isn't to just keep turning the power supply up higher, you need to thoroughly clean the JAMMA edge otherwise it can eventually burn up over time.
 
The problem is speed of cpu not voltages. You need a chip labeled 50 on it. I might have one for you.

The only fix is to solder the correct chip or get a blitz PCB.
 
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My voltages are good, at Jamma connector, and in various power supply areas on the board. I have a blitz 150MHZ board on the way.

The original board played fine for a few months, then hard drive crapped out, but something happened to the board as well. I am certain it is the processor speed (150 VS 200) but will know when my new board comes in. I went over the original board closely and noticed absolutely nothing wrong with it.
 
The problem is speed of cpu not voltages. You need a chip labeled 50 on it. I might have one for you.

The only fix is to solder the correct chip or get a blitz PCB.
We know that as far as the new board goes. I was looking at trying to find the problem on the original board and getting a few things ruled out there since he couldnt do a swap of the cpu. Was hoping to save the OP from having to buy another board, but it sounds like he already did.
 
The blitz board, with chip changes using 150mz fixed it (and new flash drive).

I am not giving up on the old board just yet...I am going to play with it and see if I can find exactly what failed. Thanks for all the input.

Hard drive coming back to you ToplessZ

Final FIX: New Seattle Board and flash drive, but make sure you have a 150MZ processing chip. Some are hard soldered in, so if you are replacing with a 200MZ board, make sure it's socketed (removable).
 
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