Carnevil has to have high voltage

clean with an eraser as per my instruction. you shouldn't be experiencing that level of voltage loss. is this a dedicated machine or are you using one of those junk Chinese JAMMA harnesses
 
that male connector is in good shape. I'm with mecha though, you should not be seeing that sort of voltage loss from the harness to the board.

here are some pics of a edge connector bypass we did yesterday. You could do the same thing by adding jumpers from +5 and GND a few inches back from the edge connector to that 4 pin molex in your pics.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4632.JPG
    IMG_4632.JPG
    144.3 KB · Views: 27
  • IMG_4633.JPG
    IMG_4633.JPG
    164.4 KB · Views: 26
  • IMG_4634.JPG
    IMG_4634.JPG
    110.7 KB · Views: 26
  • IMG_4635.JPG
    IMG_4635.JPG
    113.2 KB · Views: 18
  • IMG_4636.JPG
    IMG_4636.JPG
    156.1 KB · Views: 19
when you get a chance...

Measure the +5 at the power supply then measure it again at that molex connector. Black is GND and red is +5.

Post the results here.
 
Haha, I've had this "problem" before. (On my test bench at least.)

I bet he has one of those small screw terminal power supplies.

You have to turn the voltage WAY up due to its lack of actual AMP output.

Post a picture of your power supply. It is likely a 100-120watt one.

Edit, also post a picture of your jamma edge connector in case some of the contacts are missing/bent.
 
Last edited:
The first pic is of the original power supply that was in it when i got it. The second pic is of one i installed and still the same issue. Third pic jamma. Thanks
 

Attachments

  • 510159781.jpg
    510159781.jpg
    143.7 KB · Views: 25
  • FullSizeR.jpg
    FullSizeR.jpg
    132.8 KB · Views: 30
  • IMG_5424.jpg
    IMG_5424.jpg
    119 KB · Views: 28
Haha, I've had this "problem" before. (On my test bench at least.)

I bet he has one of those small screw terminal power supplies.

You have to turn the voltage WAY up due to its lack of actual AMP output.

Post a picture of your power supply. It is likely a 100-120watt one.

Edit, also post a picture of your jamma edge connector in case some of the contacts are missing/bent.

that silly voltage demonstration in my guide if you notice is an NFL Blitz 99... on a screw terminal power supply. read the numbers. ;)
 
that silly voltage demonstration in my guide if you notice is an NFL Blitz 99... on a screw terminal power supply. read the numbers. ;)

I know it is your thing to be difficult about power supply and seattle boards.

But I can tell you from experience that in order to get Carnevil running with 5.1v ish volts at the edge connector, my 100-120watt PSU read 5.7v on its read out.

I swapped with a 220watt-ish one and the issue went away.

I know you've experienced different results.

But, with 20+ year old hardware and cheap power supplies running around, sometimes you and I can do the same test and get different results.

I experienced an issue just like the OP's and stated how I fixed it. If it works for the OP, than great. If you want to say he should try it, fine by me. I have nothing to loose. If the OP has a 200watt power supply he can barrow from another game to try for free, he has nothing to loose either.
 
Hey OP.

Have you measured voltage ON the board and posted that here yet?

5.7 at the power supply = what ON the board. Not at the edge connector but some where ON the board. Good place to get the reading would be that 4 pin molex connector.
 
I have looked up and it shows the carnevil is suppose to run on a 200 watt power supply not 110 like it has in it. Mecha so are you saying the NFL blitz is the same exact thing as a carnevil. Do you have some pictures of a carnevil hooked up this way and it running on a screw type power supply at the correct voltage. I am almost sure the power supply is going to be the problem. It has to be turned up to high to make it boot up. Then the voltage is to high for the board set and creates the random resets. The only explanation so far for the need of high voltage. I will order the correct power supply and see. Does anyone know if i can order a adapter for the power supply to wire into my existing wires so i have a disconnect?
 
Does anyone know if i can order a adapter for the power supply to wire into my existing wires so i have a disconnect?

Some one may have cut the connector off of the harness in your machine to wire it to a screw terminal supply.

However...

When these games were new(er) and we had them out on our route we used screw terminal supplies on them. Yes, a 220 watt supply will deliver more current but I dont think thats your problem. I agree with mecha in that your harness is likely the problem.

Your edge connector on the board looks great but I dont think we've seen a shot INTO the edge connector in the cab.

At that point in the Coin-Op industry manufactures were making the boards thinner but the JAMMA standard edge connectors were still being made for the thicker boards. The results were that the edge connectors were not making good enough contact with the boards and therefore not providing enough current to them. ICE had this problem with a Golden Tee release. They ended up issuing a kit that bypassed the GND and +5 on the edge connector and supplied it to one of the 4 pin molex connectors on the board.

Do the two measurements I suggested a few posts above. Lets see the results. If its what I think its going to be a power supply replacement is going to be wasted money here.
 
Will get the measurements you asked for shortly. In my post. Post 25 there is a pic down inside cabinet female edge connector.
 
Will get the measurements you asked for shortly. In my post. Post 25 there is a pic down inside cabinet female edge connector.

I see it now, thank you.

Hard to really be sure from the pic but the grounds and +5 pins (all of the power pins for that matter) look like they are more pushed into the connector than some of the pins after the white plastic keyway.
 
Ok the reading at the power supply is 5.63 volts. Reading on board at 4 pin molex connector is 5.45 volts
 
ok, so theres a voltage loss. Not as much as I thought it was going to be but its there.

You could replace the cabinet supply but I think you should still do the edge connector bypass. Its easy and its free and cant hurt anything.

One more check.

Measure the +5 and the +12 at the power supply, the molex on the board and the molex on the hard drive. If the voltage at the drive is low I think the board will hang/not boot.
 
Thanks for the help. The 5v at power supply 5.63 volts at on board molex 5.45 volts at hard drive molex 5.45 volts. The 12v is the same at all 3 places 13.3 volts
 
Just a thought...If you have had the same problem with 2 power supplies, maybe the problem isn't with the power at all, and all this bypassing the edge connector stuff is for naught. I may not have as much experience with Seattle boards as the next guy, but I have 30 years of computer experience, and these boards are nothing more than a dedicated computer. I wouldn't do any soldering to your board until you rule out the parts you can change out easily.

If the system reboots randomly and your power is stable, the fact that it stays on longer with higher voltage may be just a coincidence, or your 1/4 volt drop or so was causing that. I would start with the hard drive. You can easily reformat and reinstall the software on the hard drive. That would at least rule out a software problem. You could also try to re-seat all the removable chips on the board. You never know, could be as easy as that.

I have also had a California Speed that would randomly reboot. It was the Hard Drive. Same exact board as your.

I'm just having a hard time believing that it's the edge connector this time.

Back to voltage...I didn't recall reading whether or not you checked the voltage at your roms. Are you getting the proper voltage at your roms?
 
Last edited:
where a fresh install is all and fine
if the harddrive is failing a refresh of the s/w will not stop it from doing it again..
a scan disk will tell the op if the drive is going south.
as for the jamma if u look real colse thoese pins they look weak (to far back in the connector) then normal.
this would cause a drop in voltage due to resistance increase (at the finger edges)

ed
 
where a fresh install is all and fine
if the harddrive is failing a refresh of the s/w will not stop it from doing it again..
a scan disk will tell the op if the drive is going south.
as for the jamma if u look real colse thoese pins they look weak (to far back in the connector) then normal.
this would cause a drop in voltage due to resistance increase (at the finger edges)

ed

His drop in voltage is minimal though. A 1/4 volt using a cheap power supply for that system is not bad as long as you can adjust it to a stable 5 volts. That's why he needs to check the voltage at the roms to make sure it hasn't dropped once it gets further into the circuit.

If a fresh install fixes the problem, even temporarily, at least you have narrowed the problem down to the hard drive.
 
it's bad when the drop is usually 0.05V. then again, no answer on if this is dedicated or a Chinese JAMMA harness.

you can measure at the red and black wires of the hard drive plug, as it's identical to the roms. even one of those ghetto fabulous power supplies shouldn't make a difference in the drop in voltage; maybe the +12 and -5 will be a little out of whack.

that's about all I can contribute here. my final suggestion is to dump the JAMMA harness and get a better one in there. or you can tell me if it's a dedicated machine or not. that would be helpful.
 
Back
Top Bottom