Carnevil Guns off screen

Lowobsessions

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Donor 2012
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Hello everyone. Im new to the arcade scene and just picked up this carnevil under false pretense of it working. The game itself boots up and works fine. The picture was a bit fuzzy and color was off, so we fumbled with the pots? and got it looking decent. My problem is with the guns. The fella I got it from says he replaced both guns and boards in the guns, and that they just needed to be calibrated. The boards in the guns look to be new. The dates on the stickers say 2011, and the "old" boards that were taken out say 2009. When in the calibration menu's, the trigger and pump action will register, but the guns say off screen. I have a total of 5 gun boards, none of which fix the problem when installed into either gun. There are 3 leds on the board that the guns plug into, is this called the I/O board? The green and yellow are steady, but the red is flashing. Here are a few pics of the machine. Any help would be greatly appreciated as the wife isnt happy about a non working machine in my theater room lol.

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Under the monitor
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Behind Monitor
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Gun Board?
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we'll get you up and running, just hang in there...how about a closer pic of the wires/connectors on the gun board? let's make sure the right ones are on the right pins...and did you check the 2 fuses on the gun board?
 
We pulled the fuses out and metered them first thing. Checked out good. Here are the best pics I could get of the gun board. Kind of an awkward spot to get into with a broken knee.......

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I printed that manual yesterday lol. We have tried the lights on and off. We cant get the "bullseye" used for targeting to show up on the screen period. I have tried making the screen brighter and darker but still no luck.
 
Replace the 74HCT14 chip on the gun interface board. It's a small 14 pin surface mount chip.

Make sure the grounds are all good to the gun mounts/cables. If you zap the metal mounts it can fry those chips.
 
There are 2 on the interface board, but they are both labeled 85A64TK and HCT14 under that. Im guessing its the same chip you are talking about, just a different part number? Any suggestions on a reliable inexpensive source to get the chips? Also, I mislead you all and said there were 3 leds. Upon closer inspection there are 5, but only the top 3 light up. Not sure if this is any concern, but just wanting to get all the facts out in hopes of getting the best help I can. Thanks for the patience and help thus far!
 
Those HCT14 are them... measure the size with a metric caliper and consult the data sheets to make sure the replacements are the same physical size as the surface mount stuff varies.

You can get them at mouser.com but be sure to consult the data sheets for the physical sizes of the chips.

Before you replace those, make sure the sync wire from the gun board is connected to the sync wire going to the monitor.

RJ
 
easy spot to get some kind of idea on the voltage would be the hard drive power connector on the game board. use the red (+5) and black wires in the connector and DON'T accidentally cross your meter probes. if your voltage is below 5.00V, you may have found the easy culprit, turn this up to 5.10V. if it's above 5.00V already, then you can start tearing apart input chips and whatever anyone else is suggesting. read the link in my signature about adjusting power supplies if you need help.

I suppose what I'm saying is, if you're trying to kill a fly, use my fly swatter, you don't necessarily need their sledgehammer yet. :) I also suggest the voltage because I had the same problem with ours.

additionally, I would clean the glass cover and the monitor thoroughly. and the usual monitor adjustments ensuring your brightness and contrast levels are where they need to be. brightness I adjust against a black background, the test screen is very good for this, turn the brightness up until you see little pixel dots in the black background, then turn the brightness down until it's solid black. contrast you turn up high enough to where the test text smears, then you turn it down until all the smearing goes away. that's the easiest way to do it. if your monitor's picture isn't very vibrant, then you may need to do something else...

hopefully you have easy fixes here and not complicated ones.
 
Thanks for hanging in there with me guys. This is all new to me and Im still learning. I will check the voltages and tinker with the monitor when I get back from physical therapy this afternoon. I was a low voltage tech for 8 years so I know my way around a meter, just never had to repair the gear. We just always sent it off
 
Alright, I have some bad news. I metered the red and black wires at the hard drive and the other end of that harness where it plugs into the board. I got 4.88 at both spots. The connector has a red, black, black, and orange wire in that order. I probed the red and the second black in fear of the probes touching. Its a bit of a balancing act getting into the cabinet since i have a broken knee at the moment. Im assuming a ground is a ground and shouldn't matter where the black probe is correct?

I cranked it up to 5.12 at the hd plug and set the brightness ans contrast, still no luck
 
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Is the CSYNC wire on the gun board connected to the Sync wire going to the monitor?
 
Is the CSYNC wire on the gun board connected to the Sync wire going to the monitor?

I tried to trace it earlier. It looks to me like it leaves the gun board and goes to the connector on the back of the main board. This is the JAMMA connector correct? Im unsure which wire is the sync to the monitor
 
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Ok guys, Im back in the states and ready to revisit this game. Still in the same state as it was when I shipped out. Everything boots up, game starts, but no cross hairs on the screen from the guns. I talked with a local arcade room owner who seems to think its the guns themselves. I have tried all 5 light boards inside both guns with no luck. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Did you ever replace those pesky 74HC14 chips?

The gun outputs go into those chips and if the chips are bad, it will do what you described. They get zapped by static electricity, especially if the guns have metal shielded/armored cables and mounts that aren't grounded.
 
I have not. My soldering skills are novice at best, and I believe I read that those chips are surface mount. I have 0 experience with surface mount.
 
Then you'll need a replacement interface board or ship it to someone that can do the soldering work. The problem is, the cost of repair would be around $45 plus shipping for me to do the work. You may be able to find a replacement board cheaper.
 
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