carnevil gun hit detection problem

runawayabc123

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Hi everybody! You may remember me from this thread: http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=198115&highlight=carnevil I did a quick search and I tried to include information to rule out problems from the last few years of carnevil threads. :)

I got a replacement seattle board. It worked great as a blitz game. (My G/F wanted it to stay blitz... I said I'd get another if she really liked the game that much.)

I moved all of the chips and the gun i/o board to the new board. The game boots up great. But the guns always miss on screen. If I aim off screen, they reload. In the menu on one of the gun config tests, the screen shows if the button is open/closed and if the gun is on screen or off screen. These tests work great. So, I know it can tell if it is on screen/off screen. The gun calibration tests don't work. I even tried with all of the lights in the run off (and minimal natual light).

The voltage AT the PCB was v5.05. The video sync wire to the GUN I/O board is connected to pin 1. If I go to the wrong pin, the screen goes kind of black. (White syn wire to gun I/O board as per manual.)

I swapped to Police Trainer to verify everything in my setup works great.

What am I missing or doing wrong?

Thanks!
 
i had the same problem with mine...i adjusted (messed with) brightness and contrast...focused the flyback and got rid of the raster lines...now it works great...
i didn't read your other thread but if you haven't tried the brightness/contrast thing, do it...that fixed mine
 
I forget what voltage I wound up setting our Carnevil at in my grandpa's arcade, but when we first got it the hit detection was horrible (thinking the +5 was down to 4.9 or 4.95?), and after some research here at KLOV (lol) I discovered it was relative to the voltage. since I have to replace the pump action switches on both guns anyway, I might go with an overhaul of the board and cleaning the edge connector and such.

just for fun though, try stepping your voltage up a little higher. go for 5.15 instead of 5.05 and see if that makes a difference, cause I think that's what I did. and that was about 3 years ago, wow..
 
Why the TV hate?

I don't have a real arcade monitor. :( (Today I am a non-cab hobbist.)

I'm talking about the first police trainer, a little PCB. Standard res. (Should I post a video of the two?)

I haven't gotten back to this yet, but on my list to try:

contrast
flyback (?)

v5.15 over v5.05

real monitor?
 
Because you are taking something timed to the video signal and screwing around wtih the video signal to get it on your TV.
 
Why the TV hate?

I don't have a real arcade monitor. :( (Today I am a non-cab hobbist.)

If you wanna pursue lightgun games, you'll need one. Traditional lightguns require the CRT beam and game PCB video signals to be exactly in sync with each other. TVs don't always do that (especially if they're newer or "HD") and any kind of converter board will throw that clean out the window, unless it doesn't do any sync conversion (in which case it will ONLY work with standard res INTERLACED games, and even then it's a crapshoot.)

contrast
flyback (?)

We thought you were using a real monitor...
 
While I understand your concerns on CRT-TVs, but the current PCBs I have tested/working include:
Area 51/max force
Area 51 site 4
LE I
LE II
Locked'n Loaded
Rapid Fire
Turkey Hunter
Lord of Gun
Police Trainer
Invasion
Judge Dredd
Crypt Killer

Which is a hell of a list so far.

I'll see is v5.15 helps.
 
I'll see is v5.15 helps.

I cranked it up to v5.15 at the jamma connector and that didn't make a difference.

I cranked it up a little more to v5.18-v5.20 and that didn't help.

I even double checked the pins on P3 on the board and they read v5.15.

I just don't understand how in the gun test it detects on/off screen, but in the gun calibration, it is a no go.

I did notice that in the gun test screen, it doesn't detect the left side very well (the screen is a little to the right). Right side it good, so is the left. It is worse on a second TV.

I turned the brightness of the flash way up and that didn't help either.
 
do you have the sync wire going from the gun board connected to the sync on the monitor? that has to be hooked up for the guns to work
 
I forgot to update, I tried this again with the sync cable connected and about 5.18v at the PCB and no dice.

Gun test for on/off screen works.

Gun calibration and any hit detection don't work.
 
did you try hooking the sync wire to the other pin,and make sure it's wired/spliced into the monitor sync that goes into your chassis.also some monitors won't work for carnevil ,if you have a different monitor layin around try hooking that one up and see if the guns work
 
heh, wasn't this the setup where you're trying to play it on a TV?

Yep, it is on a TV. :) Other PCBs work.

The sync wire is right, because if I move it to pin 2, it screws up the picture.

It was an NFL Blitz donnor board, so it the board could have video issues that would just plain make this not work. (It worked as a blitz board... I had to "quality" control that to make sure.)
 
I'm gonna stand by "it's the TV". Once you're feeding an actual arcade monitor directly from the video outputs of the board, with no scaler or converter board in between, THEN we can start troubleshooting. It's a miracle you've gotten this far without problems.
 
Yep, it is on a TV. :) Other PCBs work.

The sync wire is right, because if I move it to pin 2, it screws up the picture.

It was an NFL Blitz donnor board, so it the board could have video issues that would just plain make this not work. (It worked as a blitz board... I had to "quality" control that to make sure.)

Your issue is in the sync wire, it's not going to sync to your adaptor board that's converting the video signal to work with the TV, there is nothing you can do to adapt it to work.

You would have the same results if you hooked it up to an Arcade monitor and forgot to hook up the sync wire. The signal is not able to sync to your adaptor board.

The reason the other games listed work is that they don't need the sync wire to register hits.
 
Your issue is in the sync wire, it's not going to sync to your adaptor board that's converting the video signal to work with the TV, there is nothing you can do to adapt it to work.

You would have the same results if you hooked it up to an Arcade monitor and forgot to hook up the sync wire. The signal is not able to sync to your adaptor board.

The reason the other games listed work is that they don't need the sync wire to register hits.

This sounds very reasonable.

For unrelated reasons I am landing a cab. When I get it and it is fully up and running, I might have to test this PCB in it. It isn't a light gun cab, but I'm sure it won't mind helping me test this out.
 
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