CarnEvil: Feeler for troubleshooting help and/or sale interest

skyking2301

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CarnEvil: Feeler for troubleshooting help and/or sale interest

Hi everyone, in case you missed my intro thread, I'm a pinball guy just visiting the realm of arcade games, because a friend had a death in the family and asked me for some help looking at some games she now has to deal with.

I apologize in advance for the pictures -- the room was full of stuff (the deceased was something of a hoarder) and I didn't have great access. Here's what I was able to ascertain:

First game is a CarnEvil. It's not the 25" version, it's the 39" inch version with the separate "island" for the guns. I managed to get it hooked up and turned it on. It booted up and I soon started hearing the speaking & sound from the speakers. (Sounds like it'd be a fun game, lol) However, the screen does not appear to be working.

To see if the game itself would at least continue functioning, I flipped the coin mech to add some credits (sound effect indicated it was working), and hit the player buttons to start a game. Both guns made firing noises when triggers were pulled. So, it appears this game is functional except for the monitor.

I managed to open up the back to peek at the monitor guts, to look for obvious issues. I had only enough access to squeeze my face in there, so I stuck my camera in and snapped a few photos. The only things I noticed were a capacitor that seemed to have leaked, and a couple of wires that really ought to be properly spliced/heat-shrunk/twist-capped.

Here are the photos: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/zb8v7jmt5q2mupp/AAD3xEBzP-vBOtsCrjd7buCMa?dl=0

So, my questions to you:
1) Do you think the shot capacitor (easily visible on the board in some of the pics -- blue capacitor with brownish splatter) is a likely suspect for the monitor not functioning? Do you see anything else or have any other suggestions?
2) Is this game worth the time/trouble to attempt to fix?
3) Is there anyone who might be interested in buying this game, either in its existing condition and/or if I'm able to fix it?

Thanks in advance for any help. Before I visit her again, she intends to have more of the room cleared out so I'll be able to have better access for pics & troubleshooting.
(Note: the other game is a Sega Le Mans 24 two-driver setup. Reference this thread: http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?p=3387104 )
 
Last edited:
I'm new but had this exact same issue on a 29'

I ended up getting a new neck-board assembly since I got lucky on the purchase. The Wells Gardner K7400 series, (which I had) was not getting power either. Game would start, sound and all. A bad B+ factory setting frying the H.O.T. and preventing the monitor from powering. Listen for buzzing from the dark monitor upon powering up. I'd suggest trying to pull a chassis number and searching the monitor forums to see if that's your issue also. As for a sale price, people love light gun games for their homes. Different from even the home console stuff. Saw one in Georgia in a full Retail setting for 1100. But that was sitting on a showroom floor.
-Good Luck!
 
that's a Neotec, probably 3501. Neotecs from what I gather handle B+ kind of complicated. apparently the capacitors function as like a filter for the HOT, as the caps get old, the HOT becomes vulnerable and it can go pop. as for B+, you test it at a resistor (don't remember which) and adjust the B+ to I think 122V DC, but then you have to adjust the shutdown pot just enough to where it shuts the monitor down, then you ever so slightly back off on it. the idea here is if the B+ reaches a certain point, the monitor will shut down before it blows the HOT.

additionally worth mentioning though, I saw a 3501 in a 39" Cruis'n Exotica with pretty bad issues with cold solder. this was back before I fixed games myself, the screen would wave and with the heavy volume and bass of the game would sometimes make it shut off. a technician reflowed the chassis and it never had problems again, HOWEVER, the picture was progressively getting dimmer. Neotecs I guess if the neckboard caps start to go, the image will get darker. I tested a tube once suspecting it was that and the tube had all 3 levels highly in the green. I was never able to get the parts to cap that monitor, and that op was such a dick I hope that game's dead and he loses money.

this is about all I know about Neotecs. they're kind of an MF to cap, and they really designed the mounting for the chassis pretty stupid too.
 
Hi everyone, in case you missed my intro thread, I'm a pinball guy just visiting the realm of arcade games, because a friend had a death in the family and asked me for some help looking at some games she now has to deal with.

I apologize in advance for the pictures -- the room was full of stuff (the deceased was something of a hoarder) and I didn't have great access. Here's what I was able to ascertain:

First game is a CarnEvil. It's not the 25" version, it's the 39" inch version with the separate "island" for the guns. I managed to get it hooked up and turned it on. It booted up and I soon started hearing the speaking & sound from the speakers. (Sounds like it'd be a fun game, lol) However, the screen does not appear to be working.

To see if the game itself would at least continue functioning, I flipped the coin mech to add some credits (sound effect indicated it was working), and hit the player buttons to start a game. Both guns made firing noises when triggers were pulled. So, it appears this game is functional except for the monitor.

I managed to open up the back to peek at the monitor guts, to look for obvious issues. I had only enough access to squeeze my face in there, so I stuck my camera in and snapped a few photos. The only things I noticed were a capacitor that seemed to have leaked, and a couple of wires that really ought to be properly spliced/heat-shrunk/twist-capped.

Here are the photos: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/zb8v7jmt5q2mupp/AAD3xEBzP-vBOtsCrjd7buCMa?dl=0

So, my questions to you:
1) Do you think the shot capacitor (easily visible on the board in some of the pics -- blue capacitor with brownish splatter) is a likely suspect for the monitor not functioning? Do you see anything else or have any other suggestions?
2) Is this game worth the time/trouble to attempt to fix?
3) Is there anyone who might be interested in buying this game, either in its existing condition and/or if I'm able to fix it? It's located in Palm Bay, Florida. (Central east coast.)

Thanks in advance for any help. Before I visit her again, she intends to have more of the room cleared out so I'll be able to have better access for pics & troubleshooting.
(Note: the other game is a Sega Le Mans 24 two-driver setup. Reference this thread: http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?p=3387104 )


1. No
2. Yes
3. Yes
 
I ended up getting a new neck-board assembly since I got lucky on the purchase. The Wells Gardner K7400 series, (which I had) was not getting power either. Game would start, sound and all. A bad B+ factory setting frying the H.O.T. and preventing the monitor from powering. Listen for buzzing from the dark monitor upon powering up. I'd suggest trying to pull a chassis number and searching the monitor forums to see if that's your issue also. As for a sale price, people love light gun games for their homes. Different from even the home console stuff. Saw one in Georgia in a full Retail setting for 1100. But that was sitting on a showroom floor.
-Good Luck!

that's a Neotec, probably 3501. Neotecs from what I gather handle B+ kind of complicated. apparently the capacitors function as like a filter for the HOT, as the caps get old, the HOT becomes vulnerable and it can go pop. as for B+, you test it at a resistor (don't remember which) and adjust the B+ to I think 122V DC, but then you have to adjust the shutdown pot just enough to where it shuts the monitor down, then you ever so slightly back off on it. the idea here is if the B+ reaches a certain point, the monitor will shut down before it blows the HOT.

Thanks for the input. I can see I definitely have a lot to learn here -- or better get someone over there with more experience.

1. No
2. Yes
3. Yes

Re: #3 Yes -- are you one of them? :)
 
I wont be in florida until december for a week.
Im flying from connecticut to lady lake florida.
 
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