Capcom 18-in-1 Problems

FrizzleFried

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Yeah... it finally happened to me... I'm having a serious problem with my Capcom 18-in-1...

Let me explain exactly what happened.

I was playing... I turned off the machine... I pulled the machine out from the wall and turned it 90' degrees. I removed the back door. I plugged the machine in to do some monitor adjustments and...


The menu appears... but that is all. Gigawing does not play... if I coin up the menu and select a different game... nothing changes... I get what appears to be a quick reset and ... nothing. ARGH!

Voltages are OK
I re-seated all socketed chips... no help
I removed and re-seated the A/B boards... no help
I moved the voltages up and down from 4.95 to 5.11 and no help.

I did nothing to the board to cause the issue. Moving the cabinet was no biggie...it's on nylon feet and slid very easy.

WTF happened? I know it's not the cab... the damn menu appears and works fine (I can move up and down and make selections, etc)... jut the CPSII hardware isn't working.

Two LED's come up on the top-most board of the stack... and the LED on the board between the CPS2 stack and the jamma harness comes up.

Help! I had this bastard sold for $800... I was making the adjustments for the customer... SHIT!

EDIT: And one time I selected a game, it reset ... nothing came up but the damn coin counter went crazy.
 
Nothing that I can see...

... the menu is run by the little board that sits between the CPSII stack and the jamma harness... THAT is working fine... it appears either the A board or the modified B/C boards have died...

:(

For the hell of it I tried pulling the expander board off and plugging right in to the CPSII stack and got... nothing!

W00t!

SHIT! I guess I am happy it happened to me instead of in a week with the guy who wanted to buy it.

:(
 
This thread and others of the like have convinced me that those hacked CPS1 and CPS2 boards are bad news. Look at them the wrong way and they fail.
 
I have an extra A board sitting out in the shed... I may pull it out of the case and try to replace the A-Board in this thing...

:(
 
This is how I fixed mine.

My Capcom 18-1 went bad about a year and a half ago.

I had to buy a replacement Green: Japan "A" board off ebay for around $60.00.

I had an Asia and USA "A" board but neither would work with the modded "B" board. Apparently the Chinese manufacturers used only Japan "A" boards.

1.Anyway, remove the new "A" board from it's case. Set to side.

2. Separate the original A/B board, take care not to damage the wire harnesses that are running between the two boards.

3. On the old "A" board map or photo the five wires that are soldered on the board. Should be a single wire on an Eprom leg and four wires bundle mounted directly to pads on the board. The four wire harness has symbols on each wire (----, 1234, ....., ****) map where and what order they are soldered.

4. Once mapped, you can now prep the new "A". Look at the area where the four wires are soldered on the old board- now move to the new board you will see a small surface mount chip on that spot on the new board. Takes about ten seconds to un-solder an remove. Once the pads are revealed you can re-solder the four wires that you mapped onto the new board. Then take the single wire and solder onto the Same Eprom leg.


5. Now put everything back together. New "A" and old "B" boards should snap together. Reconnect any harness you had to remove.

6. Very important. Once the repaired board is mounted in your cab take the fan out of the Japan plastic case plug and mount the fan so it blows across your repaired boards.

My theory is that these generate huge amounts of heat and will need a fan to cool them or the "A" board will fail.

Mine has worked fine since.
 
Any reason why this wouldn't work with a US A-Board other than the incompatible 4-connectors? It appears the board I have has some removable "extender" legs that should be able to be re-used to make a US board compatible "physically"...
 
Can not psychically mount Asia "A" to JAP/USA "B". pins are inverted.

Japan "B" to USA "A" may work but where to solder the four wires. The board layout is different from Japan "A" and USA "A".
 
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