Cap Your 90's Midway Sound Boards Immediately

Thanks! I have no idea what components are in that game. I've probably had it since around 2009 and the only thing I've had to do to it is resolder a wire that came off of one of the guns around 2020!
 
Thanks! I have no idea what components are in that game. I've probably had it since around 2009 and the only thing I've had to do to it is resolder a wire that came off of one of the guns around 2020!
your board will have a paper tag or it silkscreened on it so post what it is so we can confirm which exact kit you need.
thanks
 
What's the soundboard part number in your game? A quick google search for T2 arcade soundboard gives me A-14732-40009, which is listed also in the compatible games for the MK1 cap kit on APAR.
these should be defined as ADPCM (MK, NBA Jam, T2, etc.) and CVSD (System 11 pinball, Smash TV, Trog, High Impact Football, etc.) instead of Williams part numbers.

I'm a Williams fan and I don't bother trying to memorize that nonsense.

there's other unique sound boards like for High Speed (DAC only), NARC (dual CPU for synthesizer and digitizer sections), Jokerz (stereo)

CC: @security0001 who probably hates me now but I'm just trying to help make things easier for people
 
If you haven't done it before, it's very easy to damage the pads and traces. I made a video on how to do it properly….

I received my APAR order yesterday! The .030 Chem-Wik should arrive this week, then I'll be ready to attempt the repair. I do have a couple very noob questions after watching the video...
1. What temp should I set my Hako solder iron to?
2. I've got Kester Sn63Pb37 3.3% 44 .020" Rosin and Sn63Pb37 3.3% 245 .031" No-Clean. What would you reccommend?
3. What solution was used with the toothbrush when cleaning the board?

Thank you!!
1751838388283.png
 
I received my APAR order yesterday! The .030 Chem-Wik should arrive this week, then I'll be ready to attempt the repair. I do have a couple very noob questions after watching the video...
1. What temp should I set my Hako solder iron to?
2. I've got Kester Sn63Pb37 3.3% 44 .020" Rosin and Sn63Pb37 3.3% 245 .031" No-Clean. What would you reccommend?
3. What solution was used with the toothbrush when cleaning the board?

Thank you!!
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1. 800F.
2. This is what I use… https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NW8WZ5...Identifier=buyagain&psc=1&heartDisabled=false
3. Denatured alcohol.
 
I received my APAR order yesterday! The .030 Chem-Wik should arrive this week, then I'll be ready to attempt the repair. I do have a couple very noob questions after watching the video...
1. What temp should I set my Hako solder iron to?
2. I've got Kester Sn63Pb37 3.3% 44 .020" Rosin and Sn63Pb37 3.3% 245 .031" No-Clean. What would you reccommend?
3. What solution was used with the toothbrush when cleaning the board?

Thank you!!
View attachment 831385
it's been a little while since I've capped one of these, just be mindful the solder pads are particularly fragile. back then I used the 2 temperature setting on the Hakko and soldering iron at 650 F. you have to remove the amplifier heatsink to get at the caps that are underneath it. it's a good time to clean the old thermal paste off with alcohol and put new paste. (white paste, don't do anything silly and use Arctic Silver or any kind that's conductive !!) undo the 2 bolts holding the heatsink to the amplifier. that nylon post that holds it in place may break, I would pinch it with pliers on the board side and pop it out.

I suppose this may be a good place to shill my video too, maybe:
 
I received my APAR order yesterday! The .030 Chem-Wik should arrive this week, then I'll be ready to attempt the repair. I do have a couple very noob questions after watching the video...
1. What temp should I set my Hako solder iron to?
2. I've got Kester Sn63Pb37 3.3% 44 .020" Rosin and Sn63Pb37 3.3% 245 .031" No-Clean. What would you reccommend?
3. What solution was used with the toothbrush when cleaning the board?

Thank you!!
View attachment 831385
Is this your first soldering anything? If so, I suggest getting some random throw away electronic device and practicing on that. Thrift stores are great for this. Remove some components, then solder them back on. Good luck!
 
Here we go again.
 

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Another day, another sound board. Actual trace damage this time. The 12v line was open, causing the board to appear to be completely dead. LED lit up, but dead otherwise. Amp was ice cold. Restored the 12v trace and replaced the associated cap. Fully capped the rest of the board and cleaned it up. Back to working correctly.
 

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I really want to do this on my T2 but really need a specific cap kit bc I'm an electronics moron :(

I keep petitioning to label them CVSD (Smash TV) and ADPCM (MK/T2/TC/NBA Jam) but in case anyone was wondering the kit linked above is for A-14732-43725 / A-15739 / 5768-13265 / 5768-12858-00 / A-5346-40025-9, A-14732-40009 and A-14732-40010 sound boards. +1 if you memorize this nonsense.
 

I keep petitioning to label them CVSD (Smash TV) and ADPCM (MK/T2/TC/NBA Jam) but in case anyone was wondering the kit linked above is for A-14732-43725 / A-15739 / 5768-13265 / 5768-12858-00 / A-5346-40025-9, A-14732-40009 and A-14732-40010 sound boards. +1 if you memorize this nonsense.
I assume the SmashTV kit would work for Total Carnage too, yes? Just picked up a TC board set to multi my Smash and it has original 1990/91 caps.
 
no, Smash TV is CVSD, Total Carnage is ADPCM lol
Oh, missed the "TC" in your post above, sorry! Well, that's convenient, I had bought two T2 kits and only actually needed one…. So now I can use the second kit on my TC. Thanks @mecha!
 
Another day, another sound board. Actual trace damage this time. The 12v line was open, causing the board to appear to be completely dead. LED lit up, but dead otherwise. Amp was ice cold. Restored the 12v trace and replaced the associated cap. Fully capped the rest of the board and cleaned it up. Back to working correctly.
I've read this post. I can assure you, if I had one I'd be recapping.

Leakers. Leakers everywhere.
 
90's Sega Model1/2/3 games that were made in USA (most of them) also have these caps on the sound amp boards.
Since the boards are single-sided, the leakage can go under the pads and get to the other side of the PCB, corroding it all.

Even if you have a game with working sound it's probably guaranteed you have at least one leaky cap on these boards. Even if you don't see any damage you'll often hear a sizzle and a "burning rubber" sort of smell when you desolder an offending leaking cap.

Pic below of a capped one on the top, and you can see the damage caused by leaking caps on the bottom one. It's rarely this bad and usually just limited to one or two small areas, or if you're lucky it'll just have a dead/low channel and the cap didn't leak much. But still, have seen it this bad a couple times to the point where it's not worth repairing, and it's because of the same Marcon caps.

These are found in standard (non-DX) games like VF1/2/3, Virtua Cop 1&2, Gunblade, LA Machineguns, Ocean Hunter, Star Wars Trilogy UR, Fighting Vipers, Virtua Striker & all Sega drivers like Daytona, Rally, Indy 500, Super GT, etc.

I've done at least 30 of these Sega amps. They're not fun, but it's necessary to do, just like on everything WMS ever made in the 90s. There are a couple minor variations in cap values, but Peter should probably sell a kit for these. If you have one, it needs them replaced.
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This may be the issue I'm facing with my Daytona USAs weak subwoofer channel, I'll start checking my boards.
 
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