Cap Sanyo EZ Myself? What would you do?

jdhogg

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Attached is the screen of my DK/DK jr cab. Vertical picture is shrunk about 1/2 the size and none of the adjustments can make it wider. Slight horz lines too and I'm thinking this can all be fixed with a cap kit.

I have minimal soldering experience but have done a lot of reading on the topic. I have heard these monitors are more difficult to cap than others. I bought a discharger from Bob Roberts. I don't have a lot of time during the week (2 hours maybe) and the Arcade Cup is about 45 minutes away. The charge to fix it is $140.

Would you guys do it yourself or bring it to the arcade cup?

Thanks in advance!
 

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If you've never done a cap kit before, starting with the Sanyo might be a bit frustrating. It's harder to cap than the other monitors because you really have to pull the whole monitor out of the game to remove the chassis, and because the chassis a bit annoying to get out even then. Also, there are somewhat more caps on this monitor - and you should also do the sound board while you're in there. There are a couple of connectors on the sound board that some people seem to be able to reverse (despite them being marked at the factory). Also, the board isn't as "robust" as some of the other monitors, and it's easier to lift traces with too much heat.

Also, once you recap it, you need to adjust and set the B+ to 108v - if you don't have a multimeter, this could be troublesome. Also, this pot has a tendancy to be faulty from age - I have to replace roughly half of the ones I come across.

Your first cap kit on one of these things will likely take you three hours - especially with limited soldering experience. I know these monitors real well, and it still takes me a good 45 minutes to an hour to cap one and get it adjusted.

By all means, tackle it yourself if you're prepared to spend a lot of time, and you want to learn. But if you just want your game to work again, ArcadeCup will make that monitor as good as new.

-Ian
 
I'd do it myself. Like the other post mentioned, make sure you adjust tbe b+ voltage. If it doesn't work out you can always send it to Chad.
 
That's definitely something that can be fixed with a cap kit. My DK had nearly the same problem.

Before:
3528729687_fd691ab22a.jpg


After:
3549498991_9ac0bea364.jpg


The Sanyo was my very first excercise in soldering and installing a cap kit. Of course I had the 13'" version so I did the kit with the PCB still attached to the tube. Which is not the right way to do it...

With a 19" monitor, you'll probably need to remove the board. The biggest problem is the amount of things you have to take apart and the amount of wires you need to remove to get to the chassis. You should be able to do it... just take a lot of good clear pictures from every angle as you begin to disassemble it.
 
With a 19" monitor, you'll probably need to remove the board. The biggest problem is the amount of things you have to take apart and the amount of wires you need to remove to get to the chassis. You should be able to do it... just take a lot of good clear pictures from every angle as you begin to disassemble it.

Yes, this. It's a pain in the ass to disassemble but if you take pics, take your time, and are relatively competent with a soldering iron, you'll be fine. Watch vids on youtube about how to do a cap kit (there are 2-3 good ones out there) and meticulously cross off each cap on the list as you replace it.
 
+1. Installing the new caps is cake. Pulling the chassis and reassembling it is the nightmarish portion of the process. Still voting for DIY though. Once you do an EZ, everything else will be "easy" by comparison.
 
I broke my cherry capping a G07, then did a Sharp Xm, and recently I did a Wells 7K.
The Nintendo monitors are totally much more work/hassle. I go really slow and take about 2 hours to cap it. I reflow anything that looks old and crusty while i'm at it.
 
My first cap kit was on a 20EZ, removing the monitor chassis was definitely one of the more annoying parts of the process. Not to mention I had to reinstall and remove it a few times to check my work because I had some excess solder on the board in a spot where the solder wouldn't take. This proved frustrating as well but with some perseverance I had the 20EZ up and running looking better than ever.

I am sure you will find this is a great learning process, you have nothing to lose. Just take your time. Come post here if you get stuck and enjoy the adrenaline rush of losing your cap kit virginity!
 
Ok, I think I'll give it a shot. I'll buy the cap kit from Bob Roberts. I already bought the sound board cap kit so I'll replace that too. I have tested my other machines with a multimeter but I will have to read where to test the B+, and learn what it is and what it does. I have soldered some caps on my dvd player/recorder and managed to get that working again, so I have something to build off of.

Do you guys remove/apply one cap at a time or remove all, clean-up the board and then solder all the new caps? I read a good technique to place the new caps in a line on a piece of sytrofoam and just work down the line. Any other techniques?
 
Replace one cap at a time. Also, write all the cap locations on a piece of paper and cross them off, one by one, as you go. If something doesn't jive then you know you put a wrong cap somewhere and can go back. And as everyone else suggested... double-check your work when done and make sure that you have the caps positioned the correct way (positive in positve/negative in negative).

- Mike
 
I usually remove one cap at the time and replace it noting the polarity and folding the legs over on the solder side to hold them in place. Then I come back and solder all of them in place. Then I snip each leg off one at the time inspecting each solder point as I go for bad solders or bridges.
 
To get a reading on the B+ you need to place your MM on DC. Place the red lead on Test Point 91. It is a pin that has a "BJ" next to it. It is just above the long white sand resistor. Place the black lead on the metal case around the monitor. To adjust the B+ there is a pot near the bottom left corner. You want the reading to be 108v.
 
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I take that cheat sheet that comes with the cap kit and lay all of the caps in a row with it.
Then I follow the number sequentially cause they rotate around the board in a dirrection so it'll save you time looking all over the board for a location.

You can also cross off on that board one at a time. Don't pull all of them off at once. You'll get really confused and waste your time.
 
Ok, I think I'll give it a shot. I'll buy the cap kit from Bob Roberts. I already bought the sound board cap kit so I'll replace that too. I have tested my other machines with a multimeter but I will have to read where to test the B+, and learn what it is and what it does. I have soldered some caps on my dvd player/recorder and managed to get that working again, so I have something to build off of.

Do you guys remove/apply one cap at a time or remove all, clean-up the board and then solder all the new caps? I read a good technique to place the new caps in a line on a piece of sytrofoam and just work down the line. Any other techniques?

I personally do one cap at a time, and cross them off the list as you go. Also, be sure to order the deluxe cap kit from BR, and you might want to get the filter cap too while you're in there. It's a few extra bucks but might as well replace it now instead of needing to do this again in a year...
 
I would do them one at a time. You will get a sheet showing location. Just cross them off as you go. That way, you won't get confused if you can't remember polarity.
 
Dont rush either. The slower you go, the better result you will have in the end. Dont let yourself think you are finding a system or getting momentum, because you will not like it when you blow a cap by putting it in backwards. Slow and steady will ensure victory.
 
I just tried my first cap kit on the pre-amp of sanyo ez. I'm not 100% sure of my solder skills though and it didn't fix the no sound problem? will excess solder cause it to not work? I know it's a noob thing to ask but I'm desperate!
 
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