Cap my Moon Patrol Sound Board?

[Phetishboy]

Looking for someone with a good hakko desoldering station to desolder the caps on my moon patrol soundboard and recap. I've got the kit here, I tried to do this yesterday and my desoldering station just will not get the solder off the board. I may have even broken a couple of traces trying to get the damn things out. I just don't have the tools to do this properly. So if anyone does is willing to do this for me, let me know and let me know what you would charge me and I'll just ship it out to you with the cap kit. Thanks.

 

[vintagegamer]

Love that game. Ya gotta have the music

 

[Lurch666]

Why are you recapping the soundboard?
Is the sound missing or just incorrect?
Is it an original or bootleg?

 

[Phetishboy]

Why are you recapping the soundboard?
Is the sound missing or just incorrect?
Is it an original or bootleg?

No sound. Legit PCB.

 

[obitus1990]

How do you know it is caps versus an amp or one of the AY-3-8910 sound generators, M5M5205 sound synthesizer, a volume pot, or, *GASP* bad wiring?

 

[alfonzotan]

FWIW, all I had to do to revive sound (at least as far as I can recall) was to reseat the socketed chips on that board. And you might as well double-check the 12v power going to the audio card.

Worth a try, at least...

 

[vintagegamer]

The sound has always been wonky on that game for some reason.

 

[braedel]

I repair/restore a ton of these. There is a blue-teardrop tantalum on there that tends to fail shorted. It runs in parallel with an electrolytic, so many leave off. Tantalums are better at filtering high frequency so I always replace, but use a higher voltage one (35v).

~Brad

 

[Phetishboy]

I repair/restore a ton of these. There is a blue-teardrop tantalum on there that tends to fail shorted. It runs in parallel with an electrolytic, so many leave off. Tantalums are better at filtering high frequency so I always replace, but use a higher voltage one (35v).

~Brad

Yep, that's where I stopped. I finally got it removed, but I cannot get the solder out of the holes. Can't get the new tantalum in place and I struggled with the first three regular caps so I'm giving up.

 

[vintagegamer]

I know you are a game Jedi, but did you try dropping fresh solder on the old to break it loose? Sometimes that works.

 

[braedel]

These IREM boards can be tricky if you don't have the right gear.

 

[ArcadeTechGW]

These IREM boards can be tricky if you don't have the right gear.

Send it to braedel.

Easy decision.

 

[alfonzotan]

I repair/restore a ton of these. There is a blue-teardrop tantalum on there that tends to fail shorted. It runs in parallel with an electrolytic, so many leave off. Tantalums are better at filtering high frequency so I always replace, but use a higher voltage one (35v).

~Brad

That's right. I forgot all about that one, I replaced it as well.

 

[mecha]

Yep, that's where I stopped. I finally got it removed, but I cannot get the solder out of the holes. Can't get the new tantalum in place and I struggled with the first three regular caps so I'm giving up.

lately I've been running 750 F with Weller iron and 2.5 with Hakko FR-301. if it's good enough to clear holes on PC motherboards then you can do anything lol always make sure you're adding new solder before trying to desolder. with practice you'll get a handle for how long you have to hold down before attacking.

the tantalum cap braedel mentioned, if you're still using linear power supply make sure the +12V fuse isn't blown in addition to that cap being shorted. Moon Patrol at work is on switcher, one day it had a black screen and in that case it will just shut the power supply down. it was the day I waited a long time for. lol

 

[obitus1990]

For those hard to remove caps, you can do a couple things first to assist getting it out of there. If you have a hot air station, preheat the area to 250C, add some flux, then use a bit of Cerrosafe chamber casting alloy to the solder joint. It's
pretty much the same thing a chip-qwik desoldering alloy, but you can get a lifetime supply of it for a few bucks on eBay. It lowers the melting temp of the solder once it mixes in with the existing solder and stays molten at temps as low as 160F, I believe. It makes things MUCH easier to remove then. Just make sure you clean it off really well
with desoldering wick after.

 

[braedel]

I was able to get this Moon Patrol sound board sorted out. All the capacitors installed and found the 6803 CPU was failed. Installed a new one and working perfectly!

Google Photo Album HERE

Thanks,
~Brad

 

[mecha]

For those hard to remove caps, you can do a couple things first to assist getting it out of there. If you have a hot air station, preheat the area to 250C, add some flux, then use a bit of Cerrosafe chamber casting alloy to the solder joint. It's
pretty much the same thing a chip-qwik desoldering alloy, but you can get a lifetime supply of it for a few bucks on eBay. It lowers the melting temp of the solder once it mixes in with the existing solder and stays molten at temps as low as 160F, I believe. It makes things MUCH easier to remove then. Just make sure you clean it off really well
with desoldering wick after.

the hardest cap to remove is the one under the amp heatsink lol ask me how I know

also there shouldn't be any difficulty at all removing caps on these. @braedel is a real man and uses solder braid with no issues.