Cap Kit Complete... New Issue :(

roadmonkey

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So I completed my first cap kit. Yay! I took my time and checked all the solder joints and also used a multimeter with a continuity tester to check that all my connections were solid. When I turned on the monitor for the first time the color is great in comparison and the dark spots in the bottom are all gone. Only one issue exists now.... :( I cant get the vertical or horizontal to hold. This wasn't a problem before I recapped it, but before I break out the soldering iron and the credit card to order new pots, I thought I would check with you guys to see if maybe this could be a result of me wiring something incorrectly, etc... I have attached 3 pictures and a video. You have all been so great helping me so far, thanks in advance for your help on this.




 
Very common after a cap kit. Adjust the H Hold in the middle right of the monitor chassis. Then adjust the V Hold as needed.
 
I had the same problem after doing a cap kit on a 4900. I pulled it and re-flowed random/suspect solder joints. Popped it back in and it worked fine after that. Wish I would have taken note of what joints I hit
 
I had the same problem after doing a cap kit on a 4900. I pulled it and re-flowed random/suspect solder joints. Popped it back in and it worked fine after that. Wish I would have taken note of what joints I hit

4900 is a totally different animal than a Sanyo.
 
Very common after a cap kit. Adjust the H Hold in the middle right of the monitor chassis. Then adjust the V Hold as needed.

The pots seem to be super super touchy to the point where its hard to adjust. Does that indicate that I might need new pots or are they normally that finicky?
 
No, Thats exactly how mine were. Super touchy. I would adjust and could almost get it. It just wouldn't "snap" into place.

I'm tellin ya, pull the board and reflow what you did/touched.
 
You may want to pull the chassis, and verify your solder joints as Jaymax has suggested. You may have a weak solder joint on one of the caps that you replaced.

Jaymax, a 4900 is not a good example for a Sanyo. A good example for a Sanyo would be a Sharp. So, let's shake hands and call it a day.
 
Let me clarify my intentions:

A while back I did a cap kit on a 4900 (not that the chassis matters). After performing said cap kit, I HAD THE EXACT SAME PROBLEM that the OP is having. Again, not that the chassis matters at this point.

So I reflowed solder joints here and there (I still wish I would have documented what I went back and did just in case someone with a 4900 has the problem in the future) this was just a forethought. Guess I shouldn't have said that.

I in no way mean't for you to take my last post it in a negative way. When I saw your post I chuckled and thought "Damn" I posted too much info about my problem (jokingly).

Believe me, I damn sure don't want to piss you off and I thank you for the help you have given me.
 
Let me clarify my intentions:

A while back I did a cap kit on a 4900 (not that the chassis matters). After performing said cap kit, I HAD THE EXACT SAME PROBLEM that the OP is having. Again, not that the chassis matters at this point.

So I reflowed solder joints here and there (I still wish I would have documented what I went back and did just in case someone with a 4900 has the problem in the future) this was just a forethought. Guess I shouldn't have said that.

I in no way mean't for you to take my last post it in a negative way. When I saw your post I chuckled and thought "Damn" I posted too much info about my problem (jokingly).

Believe me, I damn sure don't want to piss you off and I thank you for the help you have given me.

We are all good Brother. 4900's have lots of issues that are specific to them. Trust me, you will come across the problem that you had again sometime in the future. It happens.
 
I'll give an even worse example. ;)

I haven't used a cap map yet (though I have had to print out the board layouts from WG's site before ... still like playing Where's Waldo with cap locations though) and I generally take my sweet ass time on my re-cap jobs because I'm not modessitt or someone else that's done it 400,000 times and can do it in 30 minutes or less, so I generally ensure I do everything right. however the last K7500 I did, a cap I replaced near a transistor... I bridged a cap leg with a transistor leg. couldn't get the horizontal size to fit the screen.

the chassis is irrelevant, what is relevant is that we can make errors during cap jobs. lucky for me, my problem didn't do any damage.

you have like what, 14 caps... just go over them all again. and tell me how you did it, cause I inevitably have to do this on a Sanyo and a couple Sharps myself.

and in all fairness, from what I gather from what I've read about these ancient monitors, replacing the caps can generate all kinds of other symptoms (I think you may have read about G07s needing new flybacks cause they can't handle the new electrolytics...). in the case of a Sanyo though, all the adjustment pots generally need to be readjusted. the horizontal and vertical holds are no exception. as far as their tolerances and what not, I can't offer any advice, but I guess try to decipher when you got one hold adjusted and then try the next one, it's difficult when you got a rolling scrambled mess on the screen, I know.

eliminate the solder work from the equation first though, I'm sure you know full well what you're doing, re-capping monitors whether it's a handful or if it's like 36 on most of the ones I've done is strenuous and distractions can lead to maybe doing a shitty job on a joint or two.

good luck.
 
So I reflowed everything and I still have the issue. I did tweak a lot longer with the pots and got it a bit better but it is really touchy. I also rechecked all my connections again with a multimeter and desoldered all my pots and checked them on the multimeter. I have decided after doing a lot more research that the wave issue can be a result still of the the B+ filter cap and the IC601. I ordered those from bob roberts and also a whole new set of pots. I also was testing this outside of my cab and didnt have a ground hooked up when I did. I hooked up the ground, but it didnt change anything. Wish me luck, Im really hoping to have a working monitor by the end of the weekend.
 
No dice. Replaced IC601, b+ filter cap and pot, and all other pots. Someone also said to check c453 to make sure it was in right, its aligned with the stripe on the board so it seems right to me. Now also it won't adjust lower than 110.0 on the b+ where it was at 108.8 before. Getting so frustrated right now..... Hulk smash!!!
 
Alright, frustration has subsided and I just want to get this thing fixed. It still has the horizontal wave (in relation to vertical mounting of the monitor). With the new pots, IC601 and B+ filter/pot I was able to get it to slow down on the spinning quite a bit, but not perfect. There seems to be a big peak (wave) in the middle of the monitor no matter what i do. What I am wondering is, should I do another cap kit in the event that one of them is bad, or is there a certain section that i should look at replacing?

I went to the local electronics store and they had a capacitor test meter, but it was like 80.00 and I'm not sure if its worth it to pick it up. Can they be tested with a standard multimeter in any way?

Also, I noticed when testing all my solders with my multi-meters continuity test, that I had continuity between both sides of C411 (4.7 uF, 25V Non-Polarized). After doing some desoldering, I traced this back to R420 (18ohm 0.5W). Is this causing continuity because the resistance on R420 is so low or is there a short in it?

Thanks for everyones help in advance!
 


Here is a video of the wave. Wierd thing is that I have not powered it on since saturday and the wave is almost unnoticeable in the video (as compared to it being ridiculous last time). But as I was uploading the video to photobucket, I left the monitor on and its getting more and more noticeable the longer I leave it running. It also after about 3-4min lost vertical hold (or horizontal if you take into account the direction of the monitor).
 
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I had a very similar problem and everyone on here told me to do a million different things and all it needed was some tuning spray on the old rusted corroded pots.

I went to radioshack and bought some TV Tuning spray/cleaner/lubricant stuff for 10 bucks. Blasted the crap out of the pots about 3 or 4 times and boom finally fixed it and was able to lock my picture in.

Worked for me, and at least a good try before checking anything else..
 
as for the wave issue i doubt the spray would help much there, i just now watched it after my last post and from just looking at your first pics.
 
I had a very similar problem and everyone on here told me to do a million different things and all it needed was some tuning spray on the old rusted corroded pots.

I went to radioshack and bought some TV Tuning spray/cleaner/lubricant stuff for 10 bucks. Blasted the crap out of the pots about 3 or 4 times and boom finally fixed it and was able to lock my picture in.

Worked for me, and at least a good try before checking anything else..

I wish I would have known about the tuning spray before replacing the pots, I liked the old ones a lot better. The new ones don't have knobs, they are just this circular plastic and its harder to adjust them. Oh well.
 
I had a very similar problem and everyone on here told me to do a million different things and all it needed was some tuning spray on the old rusted corroded pots.

I went to radioshack and bought some TV Tuning spray/cleaner/lubricant stuff for 10 bucks. Blasted the crap out of the pots about 3 or 4 times and boom finally fixed it and was able to lock my picture in.

Worked for me, and at least a good try before checking anything else..

That is not what fixed your problem. You had about ten million cracked solder joints, and a hardwired composite sync. Once the cracked solder joints were repaired, and the hardwired sync removed, that's what fixed your problem. The spray may have cleaned up the pots a tiny bit - but that's not what ultimately fixed your issue.
 
The wave in that film looks like electromagnetic interference. Try unplugging the degauss coil. For giggles, check for AC leakage too - set your meter for AC voltage and check the B+. Shouldn't be much of anything that shows up, if anything.
 
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