Can someone tell me what diode this is? (manual labels it as a capacitor?)

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Can someone tell me what diode this is? (manual labels it as a capacitor?)

I was looking over this board I'm preparing to order parts for (Centipede) and found this one single diode with a broken casing and/or blown out:

20170225_144900-diode.jpg


Thing is, the owners manual labels C26 as a .1uf Ceramic-Disc 25v Radial-Lead Capacitor but that looks like a diode? Also labeled wrong in the manual is the audio chip as K10 but it's actually J10 on this PCB... How are you supposed to use the manual if everything is labeled wrong, lol.

So anyway, can somebody tell me what diode I have to order to replace that bad one in my pic?
 
The side of C27 clearly shows "104"
This is the common notation on a .1uF capacitor.

So, believe it or not it's not a diode, it's a cap.
Just replace it with a standard ceramic capacitor
 
The side of C27 clearly shows "104"
This is the common notation on a .1uF capacitor.

So, believe it or not it's not a diode, it's a cap.
Just replace it with a standard ceramic capacitor

Huh...I thought it looked like a diode, lol. Never knew caps could look like that. My father says he'll bet me $100 that it's a diode....am I safe to take him up on the bet? :D
 
Yes you are. These Caps were used on many older Atari boards.

Ha! Now I just need to find something online that clearly proves it's a cap because he said he wont except some random persons word over the internet. If he honors his bet I'll donate 50% to this site, lol... :D


EDIT: That fucker....he said I didn't jump on the bet soon enough when I brought him my cell phone with plenty of documentation on glass capacitors, lol....
 
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You can take one of the undamaged ones and test it. Your meter surely has a diode test function. What better test is out there than that.
 
The reason your manual has the wrong chip labeled is because there's a couple different revisions of that board, with different manuals. If you use a later manual, on the Atari games usually it gives you two sets of chip locations if they're different.

Yes, I can tell it's an Atari just by looking at it (lol)
 
On Atari boards, like all other companies, capacitors are labeled C#.
Atari diodes are labeled CR#.

Centipede_TM-182_6th_Printing
Centipede (DP-182 5th Printing) [Drawing Package] [English]

Any 0.1uF 25V or 50V ceramic would work as this is only a decoupling capacitor.
I would personally use an axial type vs radial.
 
It's a common 100 nanoFarad (or 100000 picoFarad) by-pass capacitor, you were mislead by the package that reminds a diode.
 
It's a common 100 nanoFarad (or 100000 picoFarad) by-pass capacitor, you were mislead by the package that reminds a diode.

Yep. Glass Encapsulated ceramic capacitor. Not many people use the glass encapsulated caps anymore - they cost too much for zero added benefits (when used as bypass cap). The previous link to the cap at Jameco would work fine. But, like VectorCollector said -- it would look better if you replaced it with an axial ceramic.
A bit pricey but if you're going to Jameco - this one would work:
https://www.jameco.com/z/P20R104K5-F-Capacitor-0-1-uF-50-Volt-X7R-10-Axial_536542.html
 
Yep. Glass Encapsulated ceramic capacitor. Not many people use the glass encapsulated caps anymore - they cost too much for zero added benefits (when used as bypass cap). The previous link to the cap at Jameco would work fine. But, like VectorCollector said -- it would look better if you replaced it with an axial ceramic.
A bit pricey but if you're going to Jameco - this one would work:
https://www.jameco.com/z/P20R104K5-F-Capacitor-0-1-uF-50-Volt-X7R-10-Axial_536542.html

Thanks for the link and info guys, I'm really not an electronics person. Doing a forum and even Google search it looks like I wasn't the only one that got confused with these glass capacitors, heh. I guess right now would be the perfect time to order the replacement caps for my Major Title 2 board (those known to leak brown caps on this board in which one was starting to leak so I pulled all the caps months ago but was too lazy to reorder new ones, lol)
 
20170301_172712-small.jpg~original


How'd I do for a newbie, does it look professional, lol... :D BTW, the old cap fell apart on its own as soon as I removed the solder so it was definitely shot....
 
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You gotta hand it to Ed (G-P-E), not to plug his own products. :)

Just a quick shout-out, I get many of my parts from GPE. His site is GREAT for arcade electronics, as he caters to the arcade/pin crowd, so he's done much of the searching/refining for you already.

See the CCA-0.1uF-50V, on this page:

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=4


(Ed, is there any way to link to a single product on your site? I would use this often, as I frequently refer folks to your products. I love your site!)
 
You gotta hand it to Ed (G-P-E), not to plug his own products. :)

Just a quick shout-out, I get many of my parts from GPE. His site is GREAT for arcade electronics, as he caters to the arcade/pin crowd, so he's done much of the searching/refining for you already.

See the CCA-0.1uF-50V, on this page:

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=4


(Ed, is there any way to link to a single product on your site? I would use this often, as I frequently refer folks to your products. I love your site!)

Thanks!

Yes, you can link to individual parts. Eventually, if I find time, I'll have all parts accessible individually on the website with links to them from the category page.

In the meantime - you can use this:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=
And add the part number of the item after the equals sign.

Ed
 
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