Can I use these horizontal caps instead of vertical?

78whiteorbs

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Recapping a 4900 chassis and wondering if I can do this.

Original was the vertical of course.

16v 470 uF

Same value so I'm think either yes or that's a dirty trick!
 

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NASA? It's a NASA capacitor??
Wow. Never seen one of those! I'll bet it's a good one! Real top flight!

Not! Don't waste any space on it.

It would be fun to charge it up backwards and watch it shoot off like a rocket though. Or simply explode on the launch pad.

…NASA. 🤣

But seriously. What Andy said:
Digikey or APAR for electrolytics.
Always.
 
Recapping a 4900 chassis and wondering if I can do this.

Original was the vertical of course.

16v 470 uF

Same value so I'm think either yes or that's a dirty trick!

here is the best kit out there and filter cap if you need.

 

here is the best kit out there and filter cap if you need.

Thanks ,I have replaced board components here and there as needed but last night was the first time I recapped an entire chassis. Thought it was about time . I acquired a huge assortment of caps from purchase so thought what the heck plenty to practice with.

All seemed to go really smooth but when I finished I reinstalled the chassis and nothing. No neck glow.

The 4900 chassis Worked before with some edge curl. Have 120 coming in ....what did I do to get no neck glow???

Part of the learning process. I went up on some caps in voltage but not uf.

Nothing popped and polarity was all correct.
 
Attached is a document you might find helpful. Despite the fact that it specifically covers the WG 19K4600 series and Electrohome G07-CBO models, the operational descriptions and troubleshooting steps are applicable to virtually every CRT.

In your case, it sounds like you are missing the B+ voltage, and/or have a problem in the Horizontal circuit (to include the horizontal oscillator, horizontal driver transistor, horizontal output transistor (HOT) and Flyback Transformer (FBT)).

With no neck glow, that means there is no voltage to the cathode filaments / heaters. This voltage originates from a secondary winding in the FBT. One can assume at this point that the FBT is not active - which means there is no B+ voltage, or there is an issue in the Horizontal circuit. It is possible that the FBT is dead, but this seems unlikely since you didn't mention arcing, smoke or other signs of a catastrophic failure when powering up after the re-cap.

Checking for proper power supply operation (namely presence and level of the B+ voltage) is one of the first steps. Hopefully, using the general troubleshooting steps in the attached guide, you can check for the presence of B+ and go from there.
 

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Thanks ,I have replaced board components here and there as needed but last night was the first time I recapped an entire chassis. Thought it was about time . I acquired a huge assortment of caps from purchase so thought what the heck plenty to practice with.

All seemed to go really smooth but when I finished I reinstalled the chassis and nothing. No neck glow.

The 4900 chassis Worked before with some edge curl. Have 120 coming in ....what did I do to get no neck glow???

Part of the learning process. I went up on some caps in voltage but not uf.

Nothing popped and polarity was all correct.
recheck your work and also caps get old and old stock caps are far worse in my experience then caps of the same age that have been used due to their self healing properties. i would throw all those electrolytic caps in the garbage as those are garbage when new and replace them on the pcb with new ones.
 
Thanks ,I have replaced board components here and there as needed but last night was the first time I recapped an entire chassis. Thought it was about time . I acquired a huge assortment of caps from purchase so thought what the heck plenty to practice with.

All seemed to go really smooth but when I finished I reinstalled the chassis and nothing. No neck glow.

The 4900 chassis Worked before with some edge curl. Have 120 coming in ....what did I do to get no neck glow???

Part of the learning process. I went up on some caps in voltage but not uf.

Nothing popped and polarity was all correct.
Where did you get your caps from?

There are old ones out there (as Security states) which are basically garbage. Electrolytics break down over time.

Would you install a 20 year old battery in your board? Nope. Caps are similar - don't do that.
 
Where did you get your caps from?

There are old ones out there (as Security states) which are basically garbage. Electrolytics break down over time.

Would you install a 20 year old battery in your board? Nope. Caps are similar - don't do that.
Got em with some equipment. Have repaired some pinball boards with them and they were from the guy I got the Nice Tempest and other bits in the lot a while back.
Was there some reason you were recapping the chassis?
Yes , it needed recapping lol. Heavy Edge curl and they looked to be original caps never replaced.
 
Got em with some equipment. Have repaired some pinball boards with them and they were from the guy I got the Nice Tempest and other bits in the lot a while back.

Yes , it needed recapping lol. Heavy Edge curl and they looked to be original caps never replaced.
What is "a while back?" (Approximately)
 
KLOV LEARNING LESSONS:

1. "Horizontal caps" are correctly referred to as "AXIAL".
2. "Vertical caps" are correctly referred to as "RADIAL".
3. It is not advisable to use axial in place of a radial nor visa-versa. (Exposed leads could short to traces, leads, other parts etc; mechanical integrity is compromised).
4. Don't cheap out on components.
5. Use quality caps from a reputable manufacturer and vendor. (Don't buy electrical components from ArcadeShop, for example).
6. When replacing caps, use same capacitance and same/higher voltage rating, similar/same can size and lead pitch, low ESR. high >3000hr lifetime, 105degC preferred.
 
6-8 weeksish
Thanks. I wonder how long he's had them.

For example, I know of a 1000 mfd 16V capacitor in my parts pile that dates to 1976. I know exactly where it came from.

I'll never use it, and should pitch it. In fact, I'll get rid of it later today. That capacitor is a dinosaur.

But it was great in high school - charge it up and you could spot weld with that one.
 
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