Can Anyone ID This Chassis For Me

your gonna need pics of the chassis out of the game and off the tube to get a clear id on it.

that # does not work.

Peace
Buffett
 
That might be a serial number.....about all we can tell you from that information.......is you've got a Wells-Gardner monitor. They made A LOT of different models.

Edward
 
Tube is gone, had a hairline crack, believe it was Mitsubishi, have the yolk, chassis board and frame.
 
My goof, tube was actually Philips, found this number stamped on the component side of the chassis board 85X0216-001E, chassis frame shows an illustrated diagram label of the chassis controls number on sticker is 69X1586-100, numbers on the yolk are 9A2862-001 followed by DOK-8834T
 
The tube numbers really don't have much to do with chassis identification. Show us a pic of the chassis...
 
that is a K7000.

you are correct.

wile you have it out have you gave it a rebuild yet.
you may as well do it and have it ready for the next tube

the tubes are not to hard to find.

happy hunting.

Peace
Buffett
 
just getting the basics out of the way first, cap kit is next, flyback looks like the original with the White knobs, guess I should order a new one of those, 1.5 fuse is blown, not sure why, need to locate and check the HOT, 5W 15 ohm resistor looks pretty toasted on the one side, and of course I still need to hunt down a donor tube, fun.
 
i would not worry about the resister measure it and see if it's cracked if it measures good i would not worry about it.

if your fuse is blown i would check C 36,37,38. and D 16-23 as well as your H.O.T.

yes put a new fly on it also. wite nobs are deadly.

Peace
Buffett
 
Is it possible to check this HOT in place on the heat sink or do I have to remove it from the circuit, not sure what pins represent the B C E or how to test with my DMM, by the way thank you so very much for your speedy replies.
 
in circuit is fine.

put your meeter on your beep test or diode test.
black on the center and red to each outer leg.

a short to either leg is bad. if so remove it and test again.

Peace
Buffett
 
in circuit is fine.

put your meeter on your beep test or diode test.
black on the center and red to each outer leg.

a short to either leg is bad. if so remove it and test again.

Peace
Buffett

Question on testing the HOT, looks like the component is made up of 4 long legs plus 1 short one. Do I count the short leg as one of the outer test points, this makes pin 3 my center and the short leg my outer.
 
that is your VR.

your H.O.T. is in the center of the chassis on the L shaped heat sink covering the fly back.

Peace
Buffett
 
got it, checked the flyback last night and it's toast, cracked around focus knob, multiple hairline spider cracks along the left side of the focus knob, difficult to see at first until I wiped away the grime. The HOT is still attached to the heatsink and will test it when I get home, makes sense now...3 legs on this component.

By the way, VR or IC4 is marked Sanyen STR3123, removed this (thinking it was the HOT) to test and of course damaged the clear film insulator in the process, need to know how I can test IC4 out of circuit, and if it's good where can I order new 1mm clear film insulator.
 
Okay, Just tested HOT 2SD1398 at Q11, Black lead on center leg to pin 1=450ohms, then center leg to pin 3=502ohms.
 
yes your H.O.T looks good.

to test your VR set your meter to your beep test. put your red lead on one pin and touch each of the other pins with the black lead. then move your red lead over one pin and test all pins again. do this for all pins with the red lead. then switch your red and black lead and repeat the process over the same way with the black lead.

if you get a dead short or constant beep it is bad.

Peace
Buffett
 
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