Calling on Dokert and Timberterror's magic

[joeycuda]

If you decide to start an interest list for Qbert, I'll bite.

I got a Robotron control harness from Dokert. After seeing his product, I think he's only interested in selling something that's top notch and looks original/correct and not hacked. Maybe someone can research and find a solution to the edge connector/pins issue.

 

[Riptor]

The best thing to do would be contract a company in china to make the edge connectors.

 

[channelmanic]

Anyone have a bad one they can send me?

I won't be flying out west anytime soon, but when I do, I'd be happy to dig through the surplus shops for some.

RJ

 

[Tighe]

Can't you just take an 8-liner connector (72 pin) and block off some of the pins by gluing in a scrap of circuit board?

-Ian

Or you could solder one of these right on the board:

http://www.newark.com/cinch/50-36sn-12/card-edge-connector-socket-36pos/dp/44F4821

Then use something like a fingerboard to connect it to another on the harness.

I don't know how many pin connector you would need, this one is the one I used for the cartridge slot on my portable NES.

 

[RetroHacker]

Or you could solder one of these right on the board:

http://www.newark.com/cinch/50-36sn-12/card-edge-connector-socket-36pos/dp/44F4821
.

Problem is, that's .1" spacing. Arcade boards are .156" spacing. Not a lot of connectors in that type anymore.

-Ian

 

[Tighe]

Problem is, that's .1" spacing. Arcade boards are .156" spacing. Not a lot of connectors in that type anymore.

-Ian

EDAC makes them with the right spacing, and it newark carries them too. Looks like problem solved unless I am missing something.

http://www.edac.net/product.html?cid=30&sid=44
http://www.edac.net/product.html?cid=30&sid=45
http://www.edac.net/product.html?cid=30&sid=46
http://www.edac.net/product.html?cid=30&sid=74

 

[timberterror]

EDAC makes them with the right spacing, and it newark carries them too. Looks like problem solved unless I am missing something.

http://www.edac.net/product.html?cid=30&sid=44
http://www.edac.net/product.html?cid=30&sid=45
http://www.edac.net/product.html?cid=30&sid=46
http://www.edac.net/product.html?cid=30&sid=74

Those look like solder eyelets, crimp pins are the way to go. - Barry

 

[channelmanic]

Those look like solder eyelets, crimp pins are the way to go. - Barry

If crimp pins aren't available then they will work. The problem is that the wires will break off the pins or the pins will break off at the body of the connector when flexed too much

 

[Tighe]

Those look like solder eyelets, crimp pins are the way to go. - Barry

Seriously you are going to complain about the pins?

 

[Tighe]

If crimp pins aren't available then they will work. The problem is that the wires will break off the pins or the pins will break off at the body of the connector when flexed too much

Solder the connector to a board small, then the wires to the board. or even make it JAMMA.

 

[Dokert]

EDAC makes them with the right spacing, and it newark carries them too. Looks like problem solved unless I am missing something.

http://www.edac.net/product.html?cid=30&sid=44
http://www.edac.net/product.html?cid=30&sid=45
http://www.edac.net/product.html?cid=30&sid=46
http://www.edac.net/product.html?cid=30&sid=74

I will have to take a look.

 

[Dokert]

Seriously you are going to complain about the pins?

Yes, the pins are very important IMO.

 

[Oryk Zinyo]

Seriously you are going to complain about the pins?

Solder the connector to a board small, then the wires to the board. or even make it JAMMA.

Yes, the pins are very important IMO.

Dave, I think Tighe is looking at this from the perspective of making one's own machine work instead of how you and Barry are looking at making a quality replacement harness.

I am certain that many people on these forums would hack in something to make a machine work, and I am equally certain that these same people would not buy a hacked harness as a new replacement piece. I know I fit this description...

 

[Alpha-tron]

If crimp pins aren't available then they will work. The problem is that the wires will break off the pins or the pins will break off at the body of the connector when flexed too much

True the pins might break. On of the job, I had connectors that would break. I cut a slot into some steel just wide enough for a slight press fit. This stopped the flexing issues. The pins were soldered / shrink tubes and than cased in epoxy and topped off with silicon.

Perhaps a bit much for an arcade game but not so much for a test bench for sidewinders.

 

[Tighe]

Dave, I think Tighe is looking at this from the perspective of making one's own machine work instead of how you and Barry are looking at making a quality replacement harness.

I am certain that many people on these forums would hack in something to make a machine work, and I am equally certain that these same people would not buy a hacked harness as a new replacement piece. I know I fit this description...

Pretty much, it seemed to me that a source for the connector with the right pitch was not known. So here is a company that makes the right connector but the fact that it is hole through or wire hole is less than desirable. I wouldn't suggest that people hack the connector, I was suggesting that the connector be mounted to a small circuit board like JAMMA adapters are, and then have a more standard connector to connect the wiring harness. possibly even a molex connector.

 

[timberterror]

If crimp pins aren't available then they will work. The problem is that the wires will break off the pins or the pins will break off at the body of the connector when flexed too much

Yes they would work. If I had a q-bert and needed to replace my edge connector I would use it. I just wouldn't build a harness to sell with it.

Seriously you are going to complain about the pins?

I've built 82 Nintendo harnesses with crimp edge connectors. The crimp pins work great and are time consuming. Using solder eyelet edge connectors would take way too much time and be very tedious in a "production run" IMO.

Is it really complaining or pointing out it's not what we've used on harnesses. - Barry

 

[Riptor]

The main problem with SEC is the pins will eventually break off and then your stuck replacing the whole connector again VS just one crimp pin. About every six months or so I have to replace a pin on my bench rig. It has crimp pins so no big deal.

 

[Dokert]

EDAC makes them with the right spacing, and it newark carries them too. Looks like problem solved unless I am missing something.

http://www.edac.net/product.html?cid=30&sid=44
http://www.edac.net/product.html?cid=30&sid=45
http://www.edac.net/product.html?cid=30&sid=46
http://www.edac.net/product.html?cid=30&sid=74

$11.14 for 1 of the correct size (30/60)

 

[p1899m]

Not sure if the people asking for a qbert harness have seen one or not but just taking into account the amount of wire plus time to put this together and basing the price off what other harness that were made sold for I'm gonna guess this harness will cost over $100 probably $150. Possibly even more. I would guess this harness easily has 3 to 4 times the wiring that say a DK has. It really is a beast of a harness.

 

[Riptor]

Not sure if the people asking for a qbert harness have seen one or not but just taking into account the amount of wire plus time to put this together and basing the price off what other harness that were made sold for I'm gonna guess this harness will cost over $100 probably $150. Possibly even more. I would guess this harness easily has 3 to 4 times the wiring that say a DK has. It really is a beast of a harness.

True, but it also has an upper harness and a lower harness. The upper harness that connects all the boards is usually the one everyone is looking for. The reason is the edge connector and the connectors that went to the filter board always melted.
That being said, he could choose to sell the two parts seperate to make it more affordable. In most cases only people working on a converted cab will need the lower harness.