Cabinet vinyl prep question(s).

LongJohns

Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2011
Messages
758
Reaction score
10
Location
Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Ok, been doing some reading but I am not really sure I understand why it is suggested to paint the wood first before applying the vinyl.

To me the original looks like it was applied to the wood surface (but could be mistaken) and was just wondering what the advantage was to applying paint first?

Also, does this also apply to decals? I noticed that some games have a full side decal, so in a sense is this the same as installing the vinyl?

Thank you for any insite into this for a complete noob. ;)
 
Ok, been doing some reading but I am not really sure I understand why it is suggested to paint the wood first before applying the vinyl.

To me the original looks like it was applied to the wood surface (but could be mistaken) and was just wondering what the advantage was to applying paint first?

Also, does this also apply to decals? I noticed that some games have a full side decal, so in a sense is this the same as installing the vinyl?

Thank you for any insite into this for a complete noob.

You need to seal the porous wood surface, plain and simple. Whether you do that with a primer, paint or clearcoat, the wood must be sealed prior to installing vinyl. I use a semi-gloss or satin coat to insure a smooth surface.

This cab was clear-coated:

P6040751.jpg

DSC00293.jpg


This cab was painted Satin black first:
DSC00118.jpg

DSC00137.jpg

DSC00249.jpg
 
I just you a clear poly, sanding between coats. It seals, and gives you a very smooth surface to put vinyl on. It will look like crap if you don't, and won't stick half as well.
 
The original vinyl on particle board was a different process, likely heat applied film. I believe that the vinyl was already applied to the sheet goods that were then cut to the cabinet profile. Artwork was then silk screened onto the panels. Totally different than what you're doing now, so like they said, the panel will need to be sanded, any voids filled, sanded, then paint or clear applied, sanding between coats. You should be applying the vinyl to a very slick surface, so the surface prep is actually 90% of the work at least.
 
I couldn't agree more.
I normally just use a flat matte black paint because it's cheap, and the sticker is going to cover it anyway.

I don't spray it, I just roller or brush it on.

Clear coat would work great too, but then your sticker work needs to be precision work, or you will see wood underneath.
Painting it black underneath can help to hide some of the imperfections if you cut the vinyl wrong.

It will give you a great smooth surface for the vinyl to adhere too.
 
I couldn't agree more.
I normally just use a flat matte black paint because it's cheap, and the sticker is going to cover it anyway.

I don't spray it, I just roller or brush it on.

Clear coat would work great too, but then your sticker work needs to be precision work, or you will see wood underneath.
Painting it black underneath can help to hide some of the imperfections if you cut the vinyl wrong.

It will give you a great smooth surface for the vinyl to adhere too.

some fine advice, but if the vinyl is light colored/white, either finish the pb in clear or use Kilz oil based white primer. I've tried brushing the first coat on, knowing that it will get sanded down. Even though the brush strokes seemed very fine, it just took more time in sanding down for the 2nd coat of primer. I'd recommend either spraying or a foam roller if spraying isn't possible or is too messy. With a foam roller, you'll still have a texture to sand down flat, but at least it's a very even texture.
 
Hey Phet,

Along these lines, your DK3 cab you did with thisoldgame vinyl...how did you prep your cab before installing? Did you try and sand down the cab to the wood, or just added filler on nicks and sanded smooth? Was the cab MDF (mine sadly is). Would like to hear some specific advice regarding that cab of yours, looked so shweet.

Also, am I crazy, or did your DK3 cab not have bolts in the sides? couldn't see them from the pics...

Thisoldgame contacted me yesterday and let me know they are close to having the colored vinyls back in stock for those that are interested...



You need to seal the porous wood surface, plain and simple. Whether you do that with a primer, paint or clearcoat, the wood must be sealed prior to installing vinyl. I use a semi-gloss or satin coat to insure a smooth surface.
 
Hey Phet,

Along these lines, your DK3 cab you did with thisoldgame vinyl...how did you prep your cab before installing? Did you try and sand down the cab to the wood, or just added filler on nicks and sanded smooth? Was the cab MDF (mine sadly is). Would like to hear some specific advice regarding that cab of yours, looked so shweet.

Also, am I crazy, or did your DK3 cab not have bolts in the sides? couldn't see them from the pics...

Thisoldgame contacted me yesterday and let me know they are close to having the colored vinyls back in stock for those that are interested...

With enamel-baked plywood Nintendo cabs, I always utilize the original finish as much as I can. It is the perfect surface for vinyl to adhere to, provided it isn't beat to shit or pockmarked too horribly. If I have to fix a corner, I try to just spray the repair with paint or poly and then feather it into the original surface.

SSL11477.jpg


Here was another cab I sealed with Poly beforehand:

P1010096.jpg


SSL11223.jpg
 
True Dat!
If you are putting on lighter colored vinyl, you would not want to go with a black undercoat.
White would be better.

Only ever done black cabinets, with darker art, so it never crossed my mind.
Actually... it did as I was writing the post, but the vinyl that I use it thick enough that I don't think that you'd see bleed thru at all, but that's just me.

that's why I didn't mention it.

Take it from the pro's however, looks like white / clear is a better way to go on lighter sideart.

Looks like I need to invest in a sprayer / compressor as well.
Add it to the list of things to ask the wife for this holiday season.

:)
 
Ok, thank you all for the replies.

Basic premise then is to make the wood as smooth as possible and then to seal it prior to the application.

For the record, this is a Dragon's Lair that I am working on - looks like back to sanding and filling. I assume you are just using bondo to fill the voids, or is there something else that is a bit easier to work with?
 
Primering and sanding will also help to reveal any remaining low spots/imperfections that go undetected when bare. ANY imperfection will show once you install the vinyl. I was pretty surprised with my first vinyl install how the slightest low spots would show.
 
Primering and sanding will also help to reveal any remaining low spots/imperfections that go undetected when bare. ANY imperfection will show once you install the vinyl. I was pretty surprised with my first vinyl install how the slightest low spots would show.

I've gotten used to it and don't let it bother me anymore. The best is when a clear coat run goes undetected and then shows up in the vinyl looking like a cascading waterfall.
 
Just treat it like you're doing the bodywork on one of Jay Leno's Duesenbergs and your life depends on it.
 
Back
Top Bottom