Cabinet laminate

XDetr0it

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OK, I am going to laminate the side of my cabinet. I have removed the paint and used bondo so all that is left is bondo and MDF. Should I apply prier or paint before I laminate? I would think not as no one does when they laminate counter tops. Also, I was going to go to Lowes or HD for the laminate. Any suggestions?

Thanks!!
 
Have the surface very flat and make sure the edges around the panel are good with no chunks or dips - you will need to use a flush trim bit to trim the laminate and the bearing attached to the bit will follow any imperfections, to some extent.

I've used the quart can contact cement. Cut the laminate oversized a bit. Put the cabinet on its side. Using a foam roller (easiest I've found), apply the contact cement to the back of the laminate and the cabinet surface. If the cabinet surface is very porous, you can apply a 2nd coat. The cement will probably state that you wait 15 min before joining the laminate to the surface. Place clean dowels, evenly spaced, along the cabinet. The point of that is to be able to lay the laminate on top of the dowels, be able to align it, then remove the dowels one at a time, keeping pressure in one direction along the laminate - as if you were applying vinyl. After getting it aligned, remove a dowel, get it started, it's pretty simple from there. Beware, once the laminate with cement comes in contact with the cabinet with cement, even if it doesn't seem that sticky, it will bond and you WILL mess up the laminate trying to pull it up to reposition. Think of it like applying sideart, get it stuck down and try to pull it up to move it. That will screw it up. After doing my first laminate job and nailing it, on my 2nd cabinet, I let it slip and ruined a piece of laminate. It's not hard to do, so use dowels or something and only let it touch when you're ready to roll. I find that a j-roller, pictured below, is worth having and makes the job much easier. Can't imagine doing it without. Lowes sells the j-roller.

167208.jpg
 
I know there's something on the can about - if the surface is rougher/porous you can put 2 coats. On this, I applied contact cement to plywood that had a few coats of clear, sanding between coats. Only reason I used the clear is that I'd planned on using vinyl. Couldn't get the vinyl, then found the laminate. 2 coats on the not-porous sealed plywood worked fine, so I think it would work well in your situation.

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=167131&page=4

Do you have a flush trim router bit? Also, be careful trimming, as a lot of overlap can split or crack if you put too much force on it, cracking up past the edge of the cabinet into the good part.
 
If you're using a laminate adhesive like DAP Weldwood or something similar DO NOT paint. The adhesive will just eat into and meld with the paint. Your adhesive will probably still stick in the end, but it's a big sticky mess.
 
If you're using a laminate adhesive like DAP Weldwood or something similar DO NOT paint. The adhesive will just eat into and meld with the paint. Your adhesive will probably still stick in the end, but it's a big sticky mess.

That's good to know.. I haven't been in that situation, but haven't thought of that either. thanks.
 
All good suggestions, bare wood is best, use a j-roller, don't try to reposition once you start and make sure the edges are straight before you route as any small imperfection will transfer to the laminate. The countertop type HD and Lowes sells is good but can stick out past the t-molding because of thickness. Vertical grade is best because it is much thinner but also requires more care when handling because it is easy to crack. Hd can order the vertical grade if you get the part numbers. They have books with samples but the best thing to do is look up what you want on the manufacturers website and go in with the numbers. Better yet if you know anyone who works for a cabinet shop or have one nearby they can usually get better prices or might even have scrap pieces you can buy.

Also I don't use contact cement but Wilson-art laminate adhesive, I think the stores carry 600 or 800. I prefer the red which I think is 400? I can't remember how the numbering system works but the red stuff is professional and that you need to get from a supplier but it will stick two greased pigs together and is ready for sticking the parts together pretty much right away. The laminate adhesive at HD works just as well but you do have to let the parts sit for 15-20 minutes before joining.
 
I've been laminating cabs for over 10-years. It s great surface to apply side art to or to even make a nice side. I prep the cab suraface with a belt sander with 36-50 grit to make fast work. Make sure you take off any loose surface material and ensure the edges are chip free as mentioned above. Th trimmer will follow whatever you leave for an edge.

Wilsonart is good stuff for the adhesive and laminate. I use the Red like HFK mentions but I am fairly certain its 600 (can is in the garage and im not there :p ) I use a spray gun and spray it on. A brush is such a mess and you will use 10x as much needed. I've had the same spray gun for over 10 years. I just leave the glue in it all the time. I've gone 3 months or more in between spraying and filling it up, sometimes more.

I've never used dowels, but that is a good idea. I pick a factory end and side of the laminate after I have rough cut it to the cabinet size (rectangle) Usually 6' x 30" or so. Measure cab adn add a few inches to length and width, usually 3-4.

I start at the bottom of the cab with the edge in hand and the rest of the sheet flipped over my head (get a visual). I carefull line the bottom edge up with the back edge (because they are square) and slowly roll the sheet up. Press firmly then use the "J" roller pictured above then trim out. I also use a smooth file on the finished cab to hit the edge so that its not sharp.

Now, there are 3 types/grades of laminate. horizontal, vertical and shelf liner. For games, shelf liner is best because you can still use 3/4" t-mold no problem. Shelf liner is super thin but brittle.

With the vertical grade, I lay into the edge of the cab a little with the belt sander during prep so 3/4" t mold fits nice. Horizontal grade is pretty thick and not recommended for the side unless you get some 13/16's t-mold. Most home stores carry horizontal.
 
Thanks everybody!!

Can you get the shelf grade at HD/Lowes? also, I dont have a vehicle were I can lay a 4'x8' sheet flat. Do you think vertical or shelf type will make the frip home from the store? It's a crossover vehicle with about a 42" width.
 
Thanks everybody!!

Can you get the shelf grade at HD/Lowes? also, I dont have a vehicle were I can lay a 4'x8' sheet flat. Do you think vertical or shelf type will make the frip home from the store? It's a crossover vehicle with about a 42" width.

When I asked about the vertical grade at HD and Lowes, one guy didn't seem to know what I was talking about and the other said they'd need a part/item # to do it. I have bought a 4x8 sheet of standard grade (countertop) laminate. When it arrives at the store, it is rolled up in a box, about 5 ft long, but about 1.5 ft the other dimensions, so worry there.
 
Like I said if you go the laminate manufacturers website you can look up the part numbers you need and see if it is even still available then just go to HD and have them order it. All the stores have a laminate roller so even if you buy what they have off the shelf they just roll it into a tube and tape it shut so you can toss it in the backseat.
 
Have not checked out the vertical cost at home depot but the standard 4x8 sheets ar 48$ each. This guy wants 30+$ ea and 30$ shipping. :(

He's not necessarily a great deal for one sheet, but if you buy a bundle of 5, it's a quite a bit cheaper compared to ordering from the big box.
 
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