BZ Electrohome G05-802 Issue

FrizzleFried

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Take a gander...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kFyjvwliZhQ

I am hoping a cap kit will rectify this issue... I've ordered one from Bob... I am guessing it will be here Wednesday. Also of note is the fact the image is too wide...and the pot on the BZ boardset is set to its maxed out to the thin side... I can go wider, but not thinner. Again... I am hoping the cap kit rectifies this issue as well.
 
Needs a high voltage diode for the flyback - it's blooming (too wide)


Welp, I rebuilt the monitor... noticed F100 was blown... put a new fuse in. Fired it up and I have the same problem...plus I am watching F100 slowly burn away.

Where do i get a HV diode and which is it? I assume it's on the HV board?
 
Well I adjusted the linearity pots on the deflection board (after breaking off the glue) and now I have the full screen as it is intended to be....it's not too wide any more...

The other two problems remain:

(A) F100 gets BRIGHT RED... burning up...

and

(B) The screen still shakes as you see in the video posted...the shaking is all over and it's not uniform.

For some reason I have a feeling (A) has something to do with (B)...
 
Son of a bitch... the shaking isn't the monitor...it's the boardset. I pulled the G05-802 from my Asteroids and plugged it in... it had the very same problem. SHIT!

So I actually have to distinct problems. (A) F100 is heating up enough to glow...though it's still running.... and (B) The shaking which is evidently caused by the boardset. Great.

Any suggestions guys?
 
On the fuse issue - check to make sure your power brick is putting out the proper voltages - should be two seperate pins with 30v each. Also, I'd check the two big resistors on the chassis to make sure they're good - make sure there's even voltage readings on each one. If one is drastically different from the other, either the resistor is bad, or the power brick is providing the proper power, or both.

Also if you haven't done it already, reflow all the pins on all the molex plugs - these monitors are in the encyclopedia next to "cold solder point".
 
PS - in regard to the shaking, i'd thirdly rule it out by putting the possibly bad monitor in the asteroids. If it doesn't shake then it is the game. Replace big blue, and look at the AR board. I had an AD that had almost like some interference in the video, and the sound was crunchy/bad. Looked at the AR board which was practically mint, and one of the nylon screws for one of the transistors was baked brown vs the other two. Turned out that transistor was bad. Replaced and works great now.
 
PS - in regard to the shaking, i'd thirdly rule it out by putting the possibly bad monitor in the asteroids. If it doesn't shake then it is the game. Replace big blue, and look at the AR board. I had an AD that had almost like some interference in the video, and the sound was crunchy/bad. Looked at the AR board which was practically mint, and one of the nylon screws for one of the transistors was baked brown vs the other two. Turned out that transistor was bad. Replaced and works great now.


I'd think it must be the boardset or power supply if it's happening to both the original monitor and a known good one.

EDIT: Alright...it's not Big Blue... replaced it... no change. It's not the AR board... replaced it... no change. I am down to: Battlezone PCB's... unless someone else has a suggestion?
 
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Necrothread bump, but since you are still active here I'd thought I'd ask you how you resolved this issue? I am seeing the shaking starting to get worse in my game. I need to recap the chassis & new big blue, but wondering if I need to deal with the HOT's or other things as well. Or if it's a board issue. Bah.
 
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