Bypassing rear cabinet door switches

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I have a problem with my Tron game. When I hit the cabinet the game shuts off momentarily and resets. I assume its a bad connection to the monitor cabinet cut off switch since it doesnt fit snugly against the inset. I was wondering if there was an easy way to just bypass all these safety switches so I can work on the games when powered up. Thank you for any help. I am a newb at working on arcade games but I wanna try all this myself so any info you have or resources would be great. I have been reading this forum for months and trying so soak it all up like a sponge.
 
i think you can connect the 2 wires together and be done with it.
 
You can pull the plunger on the switch OUT to close the contacts. Then you can leave the door off.

If you're having issues with the door not fitting snugly against the plunger, you can slip a piece of rubber tubing onto the plunger to extend it a small amount. I've also seen people screw a piece of spring steel onto the door to help depress the switch when the door is closed.

Kerry
 
> You can pull the plunger on the switch OUT to close the contacts.

You can also remove one of the two screws that hold the interlock switch horizontal, and rotate it 90-degrees so the back door doesn't push it back in. Or (like mentioned) simply jumper/short the two wires together so they're closed.
 
if it stays horizontal wont the switch stay open thus turning off the game. I appreciate all input thank you very much. I was thinking on just pulling the negative wires out and jumpering them together....does anyone know if that would create any issues....it seems logical to me that if i just pulled out the pos and neg wires and connected them straight together i would just be completing the circuit and thus bypassing the plunger switch altogether...Thanks again
 
You can pull the plunger on the switch OUT to close the contacts. Then you can leave the door off.

If you're having issues with the door not fitting snugly against the plunger, you can slip a piece of rubber tubing onto the plunger to extend it a small amount. I've also seen people screw a piece of spring steel onto the door to help depress the switch when the door is closed.

Kerry

Great ideas thanks
 
When I have an issue like this, if possible I move the bracket a little closer to the back door. When it is not possible, I have found that cutting a small piece off a paint stir stick and glue it to the spot on the back door where the interlock hits, usually solves the problem as well.

ken
 
if it stays horizontal wont the switch stay open thus turning off the game.
Not if you pull it out, like you would to turn the game on with the back door off. This is my preferred method, since it is not a permanent modification.

But if you're back there with a screwdriver anyway, you might as well see if you have enough play to move it closer to the door once they're loosened.
 
When I had a arcade/route in the 80's the easy fix was a pinball plunger tip over the switch plunger. Problem solved.


These work or you can get door stop rubber caps at the hardware store which are basically the same thing. Works great and no modifications are needed.
 
I've had this problem on my Spy Hunter game -- switch just didn't sit right. I ended up bending the metal tab that the switch sits on back a little into the cab and just pulling the switch itself out so it'd stay on. End of problem.

Not worried about getting shocked when the back of the cab is off; I usually want the game on in this case anyway.
 
thank you for your patience..i am not a game repair guy by trade..i fix teeth...but i love old arcade games..im an 80s child grew up with ataris and c-64s and even a ti994a with a tape drive...i was able to pull the switches out and get them to stick so i turned them vertical and screwed em back down with switches out...still tron garble on left channel but now i can work on it...ps almost totally replaced with bobs kit, but still sound issues...ty again for your help
 
sorry im such a noob....thank you everyone.....instead of pulling out the green and brown wires on tron and connecting them together i unscrewed the plunger switches and rotated them then pulled the switch to the out position. I didnt know it would stay.. ty for being patient

still working on getting my left channel to work...it cuts in and out and is being obstinate...any ideas on this one..thanks
 
sorry im such a noob....thank you everyone.....instead of pulling out the green and brown wires on tron and connecting them together i unscrewed the plunger switches and rotated them then pulled the switch to the out position. I didnt know it would stay.. ty for being patient

still working on getting my left channel to work...it cuts in and out and is being obstinate...any ideas on this one..thanks

If you get in a jam, CDJump fixes Tron boards and he's also in TN I believe.
 
sorry im such a noob....thank you everyone.....instead of pulling out the green and brown wires on tron and connecting them together i unscrewed the plunger switches and rotated them then pulled the switch to the out position. I didnt know it would stay.. ty for being patient

still working on getting my left channel to work...it cuts in and out and is being obstinate...any ideas on this one..thanks

Try hooking the bad speaker up to the output of the other "good" speaker, usually when speakers sound like that the voice coil is shot. That is easy to do and will let you know if the problem lies elsewhere. It may also be that the speaker is not blown, but perhaps the surrounds have deteriorated causing the voice coil or tinsel leads to short out intermittently.
 
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