Burgertime Wiring

Other than that Grey red wire the - sense pin 9 yellow white is the only other one I'm unsure of I wounder if there just both ground. I also wounder if it matters if the 5v for the counter pin 17 white matters if its on the DC power or not.

I wasn't sure about those wires. and that's why I left them hooked to the original power board.
I can put a meter on them tomorrow and see what voltage is coming out.
 
I wasn't sure about those wires. and that's why I left them hooked to the original power board.
I can put a meter on them tomorrow and see what voltage is coming out.

I just did the yellow white goes to the video harness connector and it was right on my diagram lol staring me in the face its a ground. I bet that the coin door Wire Lamp return has to be a ground wire as well because I don't think it would work otherwise.

Burgertimegndsense.jpg
 
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I stole this picture from arcade shop:

m-b-g-s-p-ps.jpg


Their adapter doesn't have an extra wire for an unregulated +5V for the coin counter so my guess is that it will work off the power supply +5V without an issue. Awesome now tomorrow I can make a similar adapter to this but much more ghetto LOL. I have been working on this all day no wonder why I have been missing stuff I'm fried need to get some sleep this will make for an easy day tomorrow.
 
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This is great info. i bought a board and wiring harness for my Burgertime that i am restoring. The wiring harness was NOT orginal to the board i bought, sent an email to the online store and got the run around. All this info will help me get it going now, thanks!
 
I'm not sure if the video section is right yet (just the red, green, blue, Sync) Not exactly critical but once I can verify that its correct I can update it later. I thought it was about time someone made a pinout that included wire color you never see that when looking for pinouts. I should know by the end of today since I plan on finishing this today.
 
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Hey SuperBee4406 if you look on the side of your monitor either on the tube or chassis there should be a white sticker that has a picture of what the pinout is for the for your GO7 could you take a picture of it? Or actually anyone with a GO7 that has the same pinout as this picture.

GO7pinout.jpg
 
I think I figured it out the pinout now I'm having an issue where when I have the PCB connected the switching power supply shuts off. when I unhook the PCB the switcher is on. Something is overloading the switching power supply.
 
Man I was at this for like 2 hours and nothing the power supply would shutdown every time I had the wire harness hooked up. I tried it with just the video side and it stayed on. Then I tried it with the other side of the board connected and it would shut down. I removed the voltages 1 at a time then it finally went on but like everything was removed this was after I changed to a 2nd power supply like SuperBee4406's I guess I will have to get some quick connect wire connectors tomorrow so I don't have to cut anything anymore this is just really frustrating. Who knew that this drew so much power I have Never had an issue like this on any other game I have repaired.
 
The AT power supply had enough wires coming out that I was able to connect one wire to one wire. Also remeber that I left some wiring still running to the original power board.
 
Yeah I tried to copy exactly what you did well I will try again tonight and see what I can come up with. I'm not sure if Any of the power supplies I have, have enough to run one wire to one wire. Its just really weird this thing would need this much power where did you get yours?
 
Ok I have tried several things from different power supplies to 2 power supplies at the same time nothing works. I can put the entire Video harness on a power supply and it works fine. As soon as I hook up 1 wire off the other top board connector the power supply cuts off doesn't matter weather its one of the +5V, -5V, or 12V wires as soon as I connect one from the other wire harness it shuts the power supply down. Now then I tried 2 power supplies one for the video harness one for the other still didn't work. As soon as I connect a wire from the 36 pin connector the 2nd power supply shuts down. This has me completely perplexed as to what may be the problem I'm using the factory harness. The only thing I don't have connected is the control panel wires and I think one of the coin door switches isn't connected or the coin door lights. Any ideas? At this point I'm fresh out.
 
Do you have the board connectors on correctly? They are not keyed and can be easily put on backwards.

Also check the connections for the coin door, and control panel. Again these are not keyed and can be easily hooked up wrong.
 

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Found this at one point in time.

Warning: Numerous sites have hosted an incorrect pinout list for Burgertime.

Burgertime and Bump n' Jump (Both DECO, both licensed by Bally/Midway) used virtually the same connectors... all but one key piece.

This linked one has the correct information for Burgertime, but is wrong for Bump n' Jump.


36 Pin Connecter

Solder Side | Parts Side
--------------------------------|-----------------------------------
+ 12 V | A | 1 | + 12 V
----------------------------|---|---|-------------------------------
+ 5 V | B | 2 | + 5 V
----------------------------|---|---|-------------------------------
GND | C | 3 | - 5 V
----------------------------|---|---|-------------------------------


Pin 3 should be -5 on a BurgerTime. Pin 3 should be GND on Bump n' Jump. If a BNJ board is connected it will short your -5 to GND and either shut down or burn-out the power supply. I submitted a correction to Mike's Arcade which did update it on their site.

In any case, I don't know if this is in any way associated with your problems.


I haven't read the entire thread, but I'd consider checking a few things like how many amps are being pulled by each of the lines.. +12, +5, -5.. Connect just ONE of each of them to JUST the main board (remove the interconnect cables too) and run them through a DMM's amp reading . It could be something is shorted out and causing the switcher to go into shutdown mode. I would expect the amp draw to be < 1 Amp on the 12V and < 7 amp on the 5V for just the main board. Just a guess, I haven't metered mine.

If everything reads right, then start connecting the interconnects and the second board, all while still metering the amp draw of each line to make sure somethings not shorting or isn't overdrawing the max amps of the switcher.
 
old thread but has a lot of good info.

kinda in the same situation, bought the board, control panel and wiring [cut of course].

will try to put it back together.
 
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