Burgertime: Stuck in test mode

metahugh

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I just picked up a Burgertime. The game powers on and goes through self test but it is stuck in test mode. The dips on the PCB are set correctly and both test switches within the coin door are set to off. I was reading the manual and it states that if you switch test switch 2 to ON it should go to sound test immediately but it doesn't. If I switch test switch 1 to ON it goes to sound test.

I have tested continuity from both switches to the PCB. The switches test out good as well. Could this be a bad DIP on the PCB? Any ideas?
 
I have seen this before on a BT, and it was a bad ground issue with the dip bank. We replaced the dip bank and the problem went away.
 
I have seen this before on a BT, and it was a bad ground issue with the dip bank. We replaced the dip bank and the problem went away.

Thanks for the pointer! I will take a look. I'm glad it works this much considering it hasn't been powered on in 25 years!

I did the typical moving of the dips back and forth and no go.
 
The one that we were working on, all of the dips tested out fine with a meter. The switch test in the game wouldn't register, which was pretty weird.
 
You can probably track the problem down pretty quick with a logic probe.

I have a logic probe but I haven't used it that much. What would be the best way to test with the logic probe? Would I be checking for high/low on the dip to make sure positions 5 and 6 are changing?
 
Last edited:
Bump to the top with an answer!! I figured this out on my own thank you very much :)

I have a logic probe but I decided to use my DMM instead. Here is how you can test the dip switch.

First trace the DIP to it's associated IC. In this case DIP SW1 positions 5 and 6 went to 15C, a 74LS367AN. The chip has inputs and outputs so the first thing I checked was to make sure voltage from the DIP were making it to the inputs of 15C (SW 5 went to pin 12 and SW 6 went to pin 14). I verified that with the DIP set to ON I was seeing 4.8 volts. With the DIP set to OFF I saw zero volts. So I know the DIP is working properly because I am seeing a change in voltage. If I were using my logic probe I would have heard a high and low tone depending on the voltage supplied.

The next step was to see if 15C's outputs changed with a change in the inputs. Pin 11 was the output for DIP SW 5 and Pin 13 for DIP SW 6. I did some switching and the voltage didn't change! So I have a bad 74LS367AN. I replaced it and the game plays! My next obstacle is to test why the game seems to have a stuck switch. Looking at the schematics its another 74LS367AN. Guess what I will be doing next? :)
 
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