Bubble Bobble I/O Error - cracked PC030CM

Thanks to @jrok for the original work and @braedel for converting the eagle files to gerber.
For anyone looking to print their own, see attached updated zip with files that Brad converted for me.
Please note, @jrok posted this a while back and asked for someone to doublecheck or add notes, no one did.
I do NOT have the skillset to doublecheck @jrok so I just sent these out to be made. I will be soldering up one or two when I get the PCBs and will report back if they work or not then, but note, as far as I can tell, this is an untested design.
 
Thank you for doing this, just FYI you can buy the repro here.
Thx @parism I got email from the member who makes those pointing me to it also. This other project is my first foray into pcb printing and manufacture. If that goes up in smoke I'll buy that one or jump coin-up to service switch and not worry about coin metering as I think on arkanoid that's all it controls.
 
When I reproduced this custom earlier this year, I built mine from scratch. However, I did look at jrok's schematics and noted there was/is a slight error; there should be 12v connected to pin 9 of the ULN2003.
 
When I reproduced this custom earlier this year, I built mine from scratch. However, I did look at jrok's schematics and noted there was/is a slight error; there should be 12v connected to pin 9 of the ULN2003.
@qjuk Thx for heads up. I'll run a jumper over when I get mine built up.
 
Unless the schematic is complete (can you link it?) it is no good. I need a schematic which includes the triacs/solenoid drivers for the coin lockouts and the counters, the logic parts, and all the passive components. This needs to be COMPLETE, not a 'band aid fix' like the suggestion of tying pin 1 to 19 and pin 2 to 17. Even that won't be very stable since you will get coin switch noise on your outputs which could fry something else deeper on the board.

See https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/79094972/PC030CM.txt for what I know so far.

LN

If you don't actually care about driving the coin counters, but still care about protecting the inputs and having the Z80 be able to gate the coins, you can simplify the schematic a bit.

I fit 10x into a 10cm panel and fabbed 10x a while back, so I'm got a bag of these kicking around somewhere:
1636572736761.png
 
If you don't actually care about driving the coin counters, but still care about protecting the inputs and having the Z80 be able to gate the coins, you can simplify the schematic a bit.

I fit 10x into a 10cm panel and fabbed 10x a while back, so I'm got a bag of these kicking around somewhere:
View attachment 542953
Dm incoming
 
(Unless you want to do smd soldering, these prob won't be of much use to you)
I've done a little bit of smd on a few things successfully with hot air station so far.
Midway skins and some cps2 boards. Looks like 3 smd and one through hole header? I'd give it a shot.
 
When I reproduced this custom earlier this year, I built mine from scratch. However, I did look at jrok's schematics and noted there was/is a slight error; there should be 12v connected to pin 9 of the ULN2003.
@jrok I have the design up in DipTrace, any idea where I can pull 12v from on this board? I will try to get a trace from 12v to pin 9 and re-post revised gerbers.
 
Sorry, I have only just spotted your message so not sure if you have managed to resolve this already.

The fix is quite easy as 12V is connected to pin 2 of the connector and the track runs right next to Pin9 of the ULN2003 (I've circled it in yellow). The easiest fix would probably be to scrape away a bit of the PCB surface coating to expose the copper track right next to the pin and bridge it with a solder blob.

PC030CM_jrokfix.jpg
 
Sorry, I have only just spotted your message so not sure if you have managed to resolve this already.

The fix is quite easy as 12V is connected to pin 2 of the connector and the track runs right next to Pin9 of the ULN2003 (I've circled it in yellow). The easiest fix would probably be to scrape away a bit of the PCB surface coating to expose the copper track right next to the pin and bridge it with a solder blob.

View attachment 552728


Right from that via? Couldn't be easier. Thanks! I just picked up a bootleg arkanoid today with this "original" custom pcb attached also so I'll take a look at the bootleg custom when populating the jrok custom pcb. Thanks again.
 
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