Bubble Bobble I/O Error - cracked PC030CM

Superully

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finally got around to testing my Bubble Bobble PCB (bought it untestd off ebay) on my workbench. when i turn the power on, i can hear a short music playing, then i get an I/O error on the screen.

did some reading and found that it might be that brown hybrid module PC030CM gone bad (what's the function of it btw?). so i had a look at it and saw that it has a crack on the right side:

7862781288_5ac3f7bd72_b_d.jpg


i'm curious: could that be just a superficial crack or could the hybrid module be damaged? where can i find a replacement part?

thx for your input, guys!!!
 
finally got around to testing my Bubble Bobble PCB (bought it untestd off ebay) on my workbench. when i turn the power on, i can hear a short music playing, then i get an I/O error on the screen.

did some reading and found that it might be that brown hybrid module PC030CM gone bad (what's the function of it btw?). so i had a look at it and saw that it has a crack on the right side:

7862781288_5ac3f7bd72_b_d.jpg


i'm curious: could that be just a superficial crack or could the hybrid module be damaged? where can i find a replacement part?

thx for your input, guys!!!

looks like it is for the coin inputs. Have a look at this.....

http://www.rapfire.net/~techman/pc030cm.htm
 
The PC030CM is related to coin inputs and coin counters only, no audio.

During my time at Romstar, I designed a replacement PCB to take its place.

All stock of this PCB are at Eldorado Games. (Eldoradogames.com)
 
thx guys, i have inspected the chip a little bit closer and the crack definitely goes THROUGH from one side to the other, so i guess i'll be replacing it!

Hold on there,

If the chip is going to be replaced, why not try to fix it. You can strip away the outer coating and get a good look at the damage and it might just need the traces fixed/mend. If it doesn't work what are you out?

I don't know what will take off that outer layer but nail polish remover comes to mind.

Also I have found a TAPPER for you but 2,000 is a bit high, better hurry only 9 days left...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ORIGINAL-BA...813?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35bf57c43d
 
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finally got around to testing my Bubble Bobble PCB (bought it untestd off ebay) on my workbench. when i turn the power on, i can hear a short music playing, then i get an I/O error on the screen.

did some reading and found that it might be that brown hybrid module PC030CM gone bad (what's the function of it btw?). so i had a look at it and saw that it has a crack on the right side:

7862781288_5ac3f7bd72_b_d.jpg


i'm curious: could that be just a superficial crack or could the hybrid module be damaged? where can i find a replacement part?

thx for your input, guys!!!

Superully, do you still have the cracked/broken PC030CM module? I'm interested in a broken module to remove the epoxy and trace out the full internal schematic.

LN
 
Its already been done by Macro.

Unless the schematic is complete (can you link it?) it is no good. I need a schematic which includes the triacs/solenoid drivers for the coin lockouts and the counters, the logic parts, and all the passive components. This needs to be COMPLETE, not a 'band aid fix' like the suggestion of tying pin 1 to 19 and pin 2 to 17. Even that won't be very stable since you will get coin switch noise on your outputs which could fry something else deeper on the board.

See https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/79094972/PC030CM.txt for what I know so far.

LN
 
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Unless the schematic is complete (can you link it?) it is no good. I need a schematic which includes the triacs/solenoid drivers for the coin lockouts and the counters, the logic parts, and all the passive components. This needs to be COMPLETE, not a 'band aid fix' like the suggestion of tying pin 1 to 19 and pin 2 to 17. Even that won't be very stable since you will get coin switch noise on your outputs which could fry something else deeper on the board.

See https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/79094972/PC030CM.txt for what I know so far.

LN


As it has a 12v supply pin I'd wonder if it has a different approach than a traditional coin counter interface and actually drives the counters rather than just ground them to energize or... they could have just run a protection diode to +12v from the counter connect.

- James
 
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Somewhere I have a bootleg Arkanoid board which uses a small PCB in place of the hybrid.

If I can find it on the shelf it's free to anyone who wants to try it on a real board and copy if it if works as a replacement.
 
Somewhere I have a bootleg Arkanoid board which uses a small PCB in place of the hybrid.

If I can find it on the shelf it's free to anyone who wants to try it on a real board and copy if it if works as a replacement.

I've got a an Ark boot or two as well, I'll see if they're handy but I don't remember these ones having a small satellite PCB on them. A ready made repro would be good nice find ( Yay bootlegs ! :)

- James
 
I've got a an Ark boot or two as well, I'll see if they're handy but I don't remember these ones having a small satellite PCB on them. A ready made repro would be good nice find ( Yay bootlegs ! :)

- James

Lol, so bootlegs may have some use afterall. :)
 
Yes they may... and I found the board.

The daughter card is a 20 pin module which is the same # of pins as the PC030CM hybrid. I offered it up to JROK for testing and reproduction if he would be willing.

Raymond
 
S
Yes they may... and I found the board.

The daughter card is a 20 pin module which is the same # of pins as the PC030CM hybrid. I offered it up to JROK for testing and reproduction if he would be willing.

The module does appear to have the same pinout as a standard PCM030CM.

I've scanned the PCB and traced the routing and uploaded the files. What I do is use paintshop and the layering tool to put one layer over the other and trace the wiring pin-to-pin. Changing the color of that trace when it's completely routed.

I'll finished up the schematics, layout and the BOM probably tonight and upload it too. Hopefully someone else can check my work make sure everything's correctly routed. Interestingly there are a few 'dead-ends' on the board with traces routed to no-where.

It wouldn't be too hard for someone to repro this.

- James
 

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PCM030CM repro PCB

Hey All,

Here is a PDF schematic and the example layout. Plus the eagle 7 schematic and PCB files. I didn't optimize the layout very much just based if off the original, a few changes were to not route two traces between 1 IC pin, remove the dead-end traces and place C7 so it wasn't blocked by IC 1A.

If circuitmaker.com was working I'd upload it there as a public project. If they ever fix their component bugs I'll do that too.


Welcome to any corrections if there are errors !

- James



Bill of materials:

R1 = 470 ohm
R2 = 4.7K
R3 = 1K
R4 = 100 ohm
R5 = 22K
R6 = 22K
R7 = 470 ohm
R8 = 4.7k
R9 = 1K
R10 = 100 ohm
R11 = 27 ohm ( 1 Watt )
R12 = 27 ohm ( 1 Watt )
R13 = 27 ohm ( 1 Watt )
R14 = 27 ohm ( 1 Watt )
R15 = 1K
R16 = 470 ohm
R17 = 22K
R18 = 22K
R19 = 470 ohm
R20 = 1k

ZD1 = 1N4733 ( 5.1v zenner )
ZD2 = 1N4733 ( 5.1v zenner )
ZD3 = 1N4733 ( 5.1v zenner )
ZD4 = 1N4733 ( 5.1v zenner )

D1 = 1N4001
D2 = 1N4001

IC A1 = MC14584
IC A2 = ULN2003A
IC B1 = 74LS17
IC B2 = 74LS08
 

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  • pcm030CM_rep_e7.zip
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Thanks to @jrok for the original work and @braedel for converting the eagle files to gerber.
For anyone looking to print their own, see attached updated zip with files that Brad converted for me.
 

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  • ark_coin_1_2021-11-04.zip
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