Brand New Power Supply Happ not lighting up using it for a Burger Time conversion kit

GunSmoke Guy

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Brand New Power Supply Happ not lighting up using it for a Burger Time conversion kit

OK so I have a Burger Time I'm trying to resurrect from the dead. For those unfamiliar they use a "Suit Case" Style power supply, I just recently bought a conversion switching kit from arcade shop and I noticed these things:

First of all after tapping into the power wires where the monitor would draw its power as said in the directions to do so. I don't see any light on the HAPP power supply (which is what i'm trying to figure out). Usually they are green / red to show you that it's on / working.

Even though that light doesn't glow on the new happ power supply, So far I see that my marquee light doesn't fully glow i'm thinking that's just an FS-2 starter most likely.
I also noticed that the service outlet on the original power brick / suit case style power supply works if I plug something in.
Currently NO pcb / logic board is currently hooked up, before I do so I want to see that little glow coming from the happ power supply.

My original power cord the ground pin broke off and is not being utilized, does the happ power supply require the ground pin going into the outlet ? Did I not tap into the right location? Also currently no monitor is hooked up.
 
Fuses...?

I am not familiar with BT, but it sounds like you may not be getting any power to your monitor ac that you have tapped in to...does it trace back to a bad connector or a fuse problem?

-Scott
 
First thing.......you should never tap a power supplies 120 volt input at the monitor's isolated 120 volt feed. These isolation transformers are rated at a very low amount of amps.....basically, enough for the monitor. Adding another load to this line could cause an issue. If the directions stated to do this......that is plain WRONG. You should tap into the input side of the isolation transformer (120 volts going into the transformer)....this is fine.....but do not tap into the output side (the side that feeds the monitor 120 volts).

Regardless of the LED lights on your switcher.....did you check if it had 120 volts going into it?

Edward
 
Regardless of the LED lights on your switcher.....did you check if it had 120 volts going into it?

Edward


No I was too tired last night to check anything with a multimeter to really trouble shoot the situation. I just thought it was weird that the service outlet worked, the power supply light on the happ switching unit was off and my marquee light sorta went on which im sure that's an fs-2 starter.

Depending on how much time I have today I might revisit the issue. Regardless at some point I will need to resolve this issue in order to get the game working.

Is it entirely possible for the led / light to go bad on a brand new power suppy and for the power supply to work ? Has that ever happened to any one?
 
Funny, (and I know I might come off cranky - still working on my first cup of joe in the A.M.), but all this time typing vs. 30 seconds with a volt meter.... Just sayin...
 
First thing.......you should never tap a power supplies 120 volt input at the monitor's isolated 120 volt feed. These isolation transformers are rated at a very low amount of amps.....basically, enough for the monitor. Adding another load to this line could cause an issue. If the directions stated to do this......that is plain WRONG. You should tap into the input side of the isolation transformer (120 volts going into the transformer)....this is fine.....but do not tap into the output side (the side that feeds the monitor 120 volts).

Regardless of the LED lights on your switcher.....did you check if it had 120 volts going into it?

Edward


Someone should tell the guys who made the install instructions for MCR PS kits. They say tap the monitor(top page 5).

http://www.arcadeshop.com/mcr/mcr-kit-instructions.pdf

gottlieb one too
http://www.arcadeshop.com/gott-ps/gottlieb-power-supply-instructions.pdf
 
Is it entirely possible for the led / light to go bad on a brand new power suppy and for the power supply to work ? Has that ever happened to any one?
Unlikely, but certainly possible.

mrbill2084 said:
Someone should tell the guys who made the install instructions for MCR PS kits. They say tap the monitor(top page 5).
Idiots.
 
ok well speaking of bad instructions, they sent me a picture of the install based on a NON happ power supply and the volts are completely the other way around.

For one this is the power supply they sent me (Happ):



And as far as the instructions are concerned this was the picture, *notice the volts go from +12 down the opposite of the happ one:


The adapter is pretty much held on by it's tabs and IMO should of had a slot to slide through the screws to have it more secured. When I tap directly into the AC / Power cord before it hits my brief case original brick I see the LED Light on the Happ power supply that way.

Below is a picture of the brief case style power supply I'm referring to :


I guess I'm just venting more than anything about the bad instructions / design of the product that they are selling.

As for my next issue to tackle this is where I'm at: My kill switch when the back door opens displayed here (obviously nothing connected to it):


These are the wires that should go in that location(I know not including the power for the monitor):


Where do these wires go into the kill switch, my issue is that on the top of the cabinet if i hit the power button, the marquee light does turn off, but the power supply stays on ? Why is it that it's not killing everything when I hit that top power switch button ? Worse case I plan on having it on a surge which will have a power toggle, but ultimately I don't want the power supply on when the game should be off if that makes sense.
 
Without those wires connected your power supply isn't on. The service outlet in the power supply is always on, but the rest isn't, which is why you're not getting any power to your switcher.
 
ok well speaking of bad instructions, they sent me a picture of the install based on a NON happ power supply and the volts are completely the other way around.

This is the reason (among others) why this style of adaptor is a horrible design. One of two things is going on......you have no 120 volts going to your power supply.......or your power supply is "pinned" opposite of the adaptor and you're shorting it out at power up. A switcher is designed to shut itself down upon a short.

Edward
 
Without those wires connected your power supply isn't on. The service outlet in the power supply is always on, but the rest isn't, which is why you're not getting any power to your switcher.


Looks to me like they stripped and soldered the wires together to bypass the interlock. If so, his problem is elsewhere.
 
Does any one have an original Burger Time with the original wiring hooked up to the interlock(door kill switch)? Can some one please take a photo so I can see what an un-hacked one should look like correctly. I would like to put mine back the way it was a safety precaution, should I pop the door off to work on anything on the inside I would like it to kill / shut the game off as it's supposed to.

Nothing else looks hacked on my wiring other than the interlock to keep the game on when the back door is pulled off. All of the other wiring appears to be original / and intact.
 
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