Bowed Back Door Fix?

Phetishboy

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I finally realized why the wires to the interlock switch on my Pac cab were cut. The particle board back door is curved like a frickin banana, making it not engage the interlock fully. Is there any way to get this thing to flatten out? Or do I have to add a vertical structural brace to the inside? The door is in great shape (and beautifully painted) it's just bowed on the interlock side. I've heard water and weights work with wood, but that would probably destroy particle board.
 
Steam and weights but not sure if your shower is big enough.... Wait what am I thinking it's Phet. All kidding aside steam it cool because it wont soak the board but it will make it easier to manipulate. Tough to do without a steamer which most people dont have. Sorry guess I am not much help. LOL
 
Steam and weights might work but it's been my experince that it will always have a slight curve.
You might cut some slots and glue hard wood inserts to help straighten it out.

My choice has always been replacement to get get it looking like new once again.
 
I finally realized why the wires to the interlock switch on my Pac cab were cut. The particle board back door is curved like a frickin banana, making it not engage the interlock fully. Is there any way to get this thing to flatten out? Or do I have to add a vertical structural brace to the inside? The door is in great shape (and beautifully painted) it's just bowed on the interlock side. I've heard water and weights work with wood, but that would probably destroy particle board.

Water and Particle board are not a good idea... I would try the Vertical braces first. My only concern would be with the screws/nails ripping out of the Particle board depending on how bad the curve really is.

If that didn't work, then cutting a new door would be the next best bet.
 
I favor the new door option but I've had the same problem before, the wood was swollen from moisture, so I let it sit right in front of a dehumidifier one weekend, by Monday it was a perfect fit.
 
You could use your vertical brace idea. It may look goofy but it is on the inside. It would work best if you used hardwood. It would also be stronger if you screwed through the outside into the hardwood. But then the screws would show.
 
take it off, put it on the floor of your garage, put a piece of plywood on top of it and drive your car onto the sandwiched wood and leave one of the car's wheels on it overnight. Then flip the pac wood over and put the other piece of plywood on top of it again, and drive your car on top of it and leave it for a few more days.

That much weight should straighten it out. It should end up better than it was.
 
take it off, put it on the floor of your garage, put a piece of plywood on top of it and drive your car onto the sandwiched wood and leave one of the car's wheels on it overnight. Then flip the pac wood over and put the other piece of plywood on top of it again, and drive your car on top of it and leave it for a few more days.

That much weight should straighten it out. It should end up better than it was.

I like your style. This was the answer I was looking for.
 
Car idea sounds awesome. Just be careful to not break it... You might want to put the plywood on, then put a lot of heavy weight, but not car weight, on it.

Have a sauna anywhere nearby? Stick it in a sauna covered with plywood, and then throw a few houseboys on top of it...
 
How about just stick one of those little felt pads on the door where the interlock would press...


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Sounds like you door is pretty bowed from your banana comment...but a lot of the doors had wood screws placed about halfway down on each side of door to keep it flush with cab...I guess in some productions cabs...(seen it with midway specifically) they decided the lock wasn't enough..they put in recessed holes for the screws..keeps door from bowing and tight to cab so the interlock switch doesn't disengage...I would flatten out like suggested since your door is really bowed and then put two screws in there to keep it flush...you can do the recessed hole thing since it would be factory and looks better if that matters..some don't care cause its back of cab but us klovers are anal about these matters...:rolleyes:
 
No, but then why not replace everything? You get what I am saying? I would only replace what you can't fix.

it's just a rear panel though. wood and i don't get along the greatest.
 
I vote for the make-a-new-door idea, it's simple enough a design to copy and you'l never be able to get the original looking quite right, if you have a wood router use that with a flush-trim bit and it'll be an exact replacement.
 
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